Bleeding your brakes on a Gen-II

[N4HHE]

Speed bleeders are super fast, and super easy. No vacuum to worry about, no spillage to worry about, just go easy and push fluid out. I use a syringe to empty the reservoir first. Then I fill with new fluid and start the exchange. No gunk or dirty fluid, except what was in the lines gets pushed through, and a reservoir or two later, and I'm ready to move on.
Easy!

Frankly one can often pump fluid through without a speedbleeder one-way valve, just crack the bleeder open with a hose attached and pump. But I think you missed my point about a bubble being pushed through if the fluid never stops moving. As in stops between pumps of the lever. KTM dirtbikes with Brembo master cylinder are infamous for developing a near-impossible bubble just out of the front brake master cylinder.

Probably have a bubble in your clear line attached to the bleeder. You can watch it return to the high point between pumps. With continuos vacuum on the bleeder as possible with the Harbor Freight tool this bubble keeps moving out.

 

[BanjoBoy]

You need an air compressor but this is my favorite bleeding tool: https://t.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
The advantage over speed bleeder one-way valves and miti-vac hand pump is that fluid doesn't stop moving one you start. I find if a bubble is present it will return to highest point between pumps. Can pump brake while the above is sucking for faster flush.

So this sits on the master(s) and pushes the fluid through? Sounds scary cuz if it's not sealed up correctly, brake fluid could spew all over the place? Fried of mine had one like that for automotive use, but never could muster up the courage to try in on the bike.

No, it is vacuum operated. You connect it to a compressor to generate vacuum through a venturi effect.

I adapted mine to work with a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight and use it for bike cars etc. The compressor/venturi combination may be a bit slow in sucking fluid sometimes, specially with long car brake plumbing.

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html

Thanks, I'll have ta check it out.

 

[BanjoBoy]

ou need an air compressor but this is my favorite bleeding tool: https://t.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
The advantage over speed bleeder one-way valves and miti-vac hand pump is that fluid doesn't stop moving one you start. I find if a bubble is present it will return to highest point between pumps. Can pump brake while the above is sucking for faster flush.

So this sits on the master(s) and pushes the fluid through? Sounds scary cuz if it's not sealed up correctly, brake fluid could spew all over the place? Fried of mine had one like that for automotive use, but never could muster up the courage to try in on the bike.

No, it is vacuum operated. You connect it to a compressor to generate vacuum through a venturi effect.

I adapted mine to work with a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight and use it for bike cars etc. The compressor/venturi combination may be a bit slow in sucking fluid sometimes, specially with long car brake plumbing.

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html

So yesterday Harbor Freight had a 25% off coupon, (That's my sign!) so I dun got me one of them pneumatic brake bleeding doo hickies. Bled the brakes, and it wuz easy, (Much easier than pump'in the Mighty Vac.) butt best of all I gotta good, thorough bleed. Once in place I just gotta pour in the reservoir. (I tried their reservoir bottle, butt could get it to flow right, so I just poured the brake fluid in.) Yay, the brakes are firmer than they've ever been.

 

[sangair]

Yes this is an old post..but wondering though, does not seem to apply to 1st Gen bikes. My o5 is abs but only has 1 bleeder nipple on each front caliper. Have not found the procedure for Gen 1 bikes.

 

[mcatrophy]

Yes this is an old post..but wondering though, does not seem to apply to 1st Gen bikes. My o5 is abs but only has 1 bleeder nipple on each front caliper. Have not found the procedure for Gen 1 bikes.

Gen 2 bikes have the rear hydraulic system linking to one calliper pair at the front, hence the "extra" bleed nipple.

 

[sangair]

Thanks for the reply..so procedure still the same?..after activating abs do I re-bleed the front left or right or both?

 

[mcatrophy]

I would do both.

 

[sangair]

So I finished bleeding both front and rear..then activated the abs with a jumper.. then did them again. The first flush fluid came out a dark amber color. The 2nd flush really no change in color and I flushed approx. 32 oz. Between both. Do not understand that. Should it have been dark too? Should I activate the abs again and do a 3rd flush or not worry about it?

 

[mcatrophy]

Wouldn't expect any significant change in colour on your post-ABS activation flush, the "trapped" fluid would be quite a small volume.

It is worth checking that the ABS does actually work, the ABS pump(s) have been known to seize, so preventing operation, but without the warning light or any error code showing.

 

[sangair]

Thanks for the reply. I will check that abs is working. I have noticed the front brake lever now is softer then before. I'm hoping that firms up after a ride.

 

[RossKean]

Thanks for the reply. I will check that abs is working. I have noticed the front brake lever now is softer then before. I'm hoping that firms up after a ride.

Probably a bubble somewhere in the line. Sometimes they will work themselves out.

 

[donaldb]

So I finished bleeding both front and rear..then activated the abs with a jumper.. then did them again. The first flush fluid came out a dark amber color. The 2nd flush really no change in color and I flushed approx. 32 oz. Between both. Do not understand that. Should it have been dark too? Should I activate the abs again and do a 3rd flush or not worry about it?

Can someone link me up with the thread on how to do the ABS module flush using the jumper? I ordered the jumper recently and am having problems finding how to hook it up and do the module flush on my Gen. 1. I think I found the correct connector under the dash panel, but I don't know where to go or what to do from there. My rear ABS has stopped working and while I don't expect the module flush will correct that problem, my front ABS is still working and I would like to do the module flush to help insure that they keep working. Thanks

 

[rbentnail]

Can someone link me up with the thread on how to do the ABS module flush using the jumper? I ordered the jumper recently and am having problems finding how to hook it up and do the module flush on my Gen. 1. I think I found the correct connector under the dash panel, but I don't know where to go or what to do from there. My rear ABS has stopped working and while I don't expect the module flush will correct that problem, my front ABS is still working and I would like to do the module flush to help insure that they keep working. Thanks

Sent you a PM. The connector can be kind of tricky- there's a little tab to push DOWN on the get the cap off.