T-Bar Bolt Torques

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Constant Mesh

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As I was reviewing the procedure for changing spark plugs I noticed that the torque values for the T-Bar bolts changed quite a bit for '06 and later FJR's.

For my '04 the recommended torque for the three large bolts is 78 Nm (58 lb. ft.).

For the '06 the recommended torque is 37 Nm (27 lb. ft.).

That's a big change.

Is the newer T-Bar all that different?

 
Hmmm..........I wonder if stripping of metal stuff is the problem. Count my FJR as one of the many where the threads in the frame (top) were stripped (by a dealer) and had to be helicoiled. :angry:

 
Noticed that this weekend while doing a TBS on a GENII.

Scratched my head for a while before Scott (ScottsBMW) just grabbed the wrench and tightened them to his own specifications!

FJR didn't blow up!

But it is wierd such a huge change in the values on a part that probably didn't at all.

 
When I had the TBS done at EOM someone said to make certain I tightened the cross member enough. Implying it was much higher torque than expected. on the 06 it is spec ed at 27 ft lbs. Threading into aluminum I wouldn't expect it to be too much higher. but now I understand his comment.

 
I called Yamaha USA headquarters in California yesterday asking about these torque values. They called back today after consulting their technical people.

They said the recommended torque values are indeed much lower for the '06 versus the earlier models and that the values in the Service Manuals are correct.

Don't know what changed, he didn't elaborate. Maybe the bolt sizes are reduced? They may have modified the front portion of the frame around the steering head when they changed the air flow passages on the '06.

Anyway, the values in the Service Manuals are correct.

 
Steel bolts in an aluminum T-bar. 27 ft/lbs seems right under the circumstances.

 
NOW they tell me!

I had the entire top frame lug break in two on my 2004. Yamaha disclaimed resposibility but paid for a welded repair.

I believe that the new lower torque value makes more sense.

dobias

 
When I removed the T-bar recently on my '04 FJR to replace the spark plugs I looked for any aluminum shavings when I removed the large T-bar bolts. No fragments came out with the bolts.

I reinstalled the bolts at the specified 58 ft-lbs.

I called a Permatex technical guy and he recommended two of their thread sealant products for steel bolts into aluminum threads. He recommended Permatex's High Performance Thread Sealant (56521) as his first choice and High Temperature Thread Sealant (59214) as his second choice. They are both good for preventing thread galling, allowing for easy assembly and disassembly, and also protect against corrosion. He said both of these would be better choices than using Anti-Seize Lubricants containing aluminum, copper, and graphite.

 
Like Scooter I wonder if the change is due to the number of stripped t-bars. I stripped my own center t-bar bolt torqing to recommended specs and replaced it with a longer bolt and nut through the whole assembly.

 
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Hmm, maybe I'll go somewhere in between during my next spark change or TBS.

36 foot pounds sounds like a nice number.

This is starting to sound like an oil drain plug thread!

 
As tight as a 3/8 drive ratchet will get them has worked well for me the several dozen times I've removed them on a number of bikes.

 
As tight as a 3/8 drive ratchet will get them has worked well for me the several dozen times I've removed them on a number of bikes.
That's a good reference...does that include the 2ft long pipe "helper" at the end of the ratchet? ;)

 
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Yep, I broke out the torque wrench the first time I had the T-Bar off, I must have thought there was some magic to having those bolts just right. Kind of silly. Still, it's probably a good idea for someone who doesn't turn a wrench very often to use the torque wrench when cranking into aluminum.

How's this 3/8 ratchet for ya?
21DY68F5T4L._SL500_AA280_.jpg


:p

 
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Yep, I broke out the torque wrench the first time I had the T-Bar off, I must have thought there was some magic to having those bolts just right. Kind of silly.
I always use the torque wrench. Besides sounding all manly-like, it impresses the hell out of the neighbor folk.

 
Yep, I broke out the torque wrench the first time I had the T-Bar off, I must have thought there was some magic to having those bolts just right. Kind of silly.
I always use the torque wrench. Besides sounding all manly-like, it impresses the hell out of the neighbor folk.

Yabbut, what angle do you hold it at?

 
Long ago, I used to be all anal about "torquing it to specs". I actually used to torque the wheel lugs nuts on my cars.

But the older I got, the wiser came with it. I can count the number of times, on 1 finger, that I was riding in a car and a wheel fell off. And even then only because some fool finger tightened the lugs and forgot to wrench tighten them. [Wasn't my car]

I just had my T-bar off for a valve clearance check. I believe I tightened those 3 bolts back down with a Craftsman 17mm box end wrench, maybe it was a half-inch drive ratchet, then I tightened myself back down with a beer or 3.

I don't know where Yamaha came up with those torque specs for early model T-bars, but 50-some odd ft./lbs. in aluminum threads is just asking for trouble.

Good luck to those who torque. May your threads stay clean.

 
I always use the torque wrench. Besides sounding all manly-like, it impresses the hell out of the neighbor folk.
Holly ****! Impressed by a torque wrench!

Imagine what would happen if ya changed your own tire on yer car! Ya just might get elected Governor! Next stop, Oval Office!

An all because you knew.. lefty loosy, righty tighty..

:jester:

 
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