Heli HRT076-2 Triple Clamp and Heli's Risers HRTR01

I was on Heli's website today and came across the HRTR01 bar risers. Here is a link to the page clciky.

It clearly states on the web page that Heli does not recommend using these risers with the new HRT076-2 Triple Clamp.

I am wondering if anyone has used these two together and if there were issues with the cabling and hydraulic lines like Heli states.

Well, I seem to recall that you've done the throttle spring mod on your bike - am I correct in remembering that? Or am I just getting old?

Jim Kang (KMA625) and I did the spring mod on his bike - (which has since met it's demise under a semi while parked and riderless...) and we then had to un-do the spring mod. Which was one of the more difficult things I've had to do on a bike.

This was due to the fact that the new triple t and risers removed ALL slack out of the cables - so any time he turned the bars to the left, the engine would accelerate. Es No Bueno. The stock spring tension held the throttle closed, while the modified tension did not. YMMV.

I put on the Heli triple clamp and there was no slack left in the cables. IMO, it won't work to install both without adverse effects, as was stated.

kaitsdad said:

Well, I seem to recall that you've done the throttle spring mod on your bike - am I correct in remembering that? Or am I just getting old?
Jim Kang (KMA625) and I did the spring mod on his bike - (which has since met it's demise under a semi while parked and riderless...) and we then had to un-do the spring mod. Which was one of the more difficult things I've had to do on a bike.

This was due to the fact that the new triple t and risers removed ALL slack out of the cables - so any time he turned the bars to the left, the engine would accelerate. Es No Bueno. The stock spring tension held the throttle closed, while the modified tension did not. YMMV.

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Check out this post clicky and look at the picture I posted. Were his cables routed like I have mine now? I had the same problem with no slack until I re-routed them as shown in the picture and now they have plenty of slack. I thought I was going to have to re-wrap the throttle spring as well but this fixed the issue completely.

Thanks guys. I think the reroute of the cables like SCRider showed will work. I am going to to order them and see if I can get it to work without the automatic left turn throttle kicking in.

Yes Hal we did do the throttle unwind. That does not mean you are not getting old though.

I called Heli today and ordered the risers. They had been discontinued and I got the last pair they had. I don't think that bodes well for my chances of making this farkle successful but I will give it a try.

I received the risers last week and thought I would try to put them on today. I did get them to fit but I had to move the throttle cables so they looked like the picture SCRider posted.



I can move my bars lock to lock and don't have any trouble with the throttle rolling on. The block that has three hydraulic lines going in and out of it does move a little (about 1/4 of an inch) there doesn't seem to be any other issues.

My big question to all of you out there is how much does the little block for the 3 hydraulic lines move when you turn your handlebars lock to lock? Please also include if you have a stock or Heli triple clamp.

TIA,

John

Come on guys help me out with this one. :grin:

johnny80s said:

The block that has three hydraulic lines going in and out of it does move a little (about 1/4 of an inch) there doesn't seem to be any other issues.
My big question to all of you out there is how much does the little block for the 3 hydraulic lines move when you turn your handlebars lock to lock? Please also include if you have a stock or Heli triple clamp.

TIA,

John

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I don't think that brake block is suppose to move at all. After a year with the HRT076-02 on (latest version with two bar mounting positions), I noticed the bolt that holds the block on was working its way out (about .25"). I tightened it up and the block doesn't move now. Heli has these lines stretched to their limits (at full lock) when the bar are in their rearmost position. Constant movement in the block may help relieve the hoses running up to the bars a bit, but will eventual lead to fatique in the hard tubes running down from the block - the block must be held tightly, IMHO.

RZ350 said:

johnny80s said:

The block that has three hydraulic lines going in and out of it does move a little (about 1/4 of an inch) there doesn't seem to be any other issues.
My big question to all of you out there is how much does the little block for the 3 hydraulic lines move when you turn your handlebars lock to lock? Please also include if you have a stock or Heli triple clamp.

TIA,

John

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I don't think that brake block is suppose to move at all. After a year with the HRT076-02 on (latest version with two bar mounting positions), I noticed the bolt that holds the block on was working its way out (about .25"). I tightened it up and the block doesn't move now. Heli has these lines stretched to their limits (at full lock) when the bar are in their rearmost position. Constant movement in the block may help relieve the hoses running up to the bars a bit, but will eventual lead to fatique in the hard tubes running down from the block - the block must be held tightly, IMHO.

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RZ350 thanks for posting about that little screw loosing up on you. I went and checked mine and it was loose too. I tightened it up and now there is no movement in the block. I would recommend everyone check the screw that holds the hydraulic block on the frame below the throttle.

So far I have no had no ill effects from this mod. It has really made a difference having the extra 3/4 rise. I am going to keep monitoring the lines.

johnny80s said:

I can move my bars lock to lock and don't have any trouble with the throttle rolling on. The block that has three hydraulic lines going in and out of it does move a little (about 1/4 of an inch) there doesn't seem to be any other issues.My big question to all of you out there is how much does the little block for the 3 hydraulic lines move when you turn your handlebars lock to lock? Please also include if you have a stock or Heli triple clamp.

TIA,

John

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Thanks for this heads-up. Installed my HeliBars and the Yamaha heated grips today on my new '08. Zero miles and the bolt you describe was barely tight enough in the aluminum frame to hold. Put some thread locker on the bolt just in case and torqued per the Manual. There's a bracket under the bolt head that should stop any twisting movement, but ???

Gary in Fairbanks

Great info Does anyone have any more before & after shots or step by step shots for you do it yourself guy's ? petty interested in purchasing the helibars even though the group buy is over, also any pros & con's about install and or before and after

Google is your friend. Search "Heli HRT076-2 Triple Clamp site:fjrforum.com" you should find lots of pictures.

johnny80s said:

Google is your friend. Search "Heli HRT076-2 Triple Clamp site:fjrforum.com" you should find lots of pictures.

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OK, thanks, mainly wondering about the disconnection & reconnection of the throttle that looks/sounds like the most unsure/scary part to me

fjr105 said:

johnny80s said:

Google is your friend. Search "Heli HRT076-2 Triple Clamp site:fjrforum.com" you should find lots of pictures.

Click to expand...

OK, thanks, mainly wondering about the disconnection & reconnection of the throttle that looks/sounds like the most unsure/scary part to me

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The latest Heli clamp was the third I've installed. The process is well described in their instructions and in several spots here and in other FJR sources. No big surprises. Good idea to take the weight off the front by putting the bike on the center stand and adding some weight to the rear when fitting the new part over the forks. Have someone sit on the bike, help push down on the rear, or push the rear end down with your right hand, and wiggle the clamp over the forks with your left.

I hand drill the security bolts, but a drill press would make it easier. It's a three drill bit process as described. The cable guards get deleted, and the throttle cables get repositioned. Remove the black plastic covers over the battery to get some working room. Open the throttle housing to free the cable ends, and then make an easy small half-loop of the two throttle cables near the brake lines with the cable ends pointing down. I push the half-loop under the brake lines then pull it up behind them. The ends follow. Trying to force the ends to go under and behind the brake lines first may make them kink, as there's not much room to turn them down there. After all's tightened, swing the bars left and right to check for binding, and adjust your throttle cable tension to suit without any increase in idle speed due to excessive cable tightness. Secure all the cables with a minimum of cable tys.

One thing some have discovered is bead blasting residue in the threaded holes on the Heli clamp. Clean them all well with solvent and air before installing any hardware. The threads will gall and seize if contaminated.

Edit: Oh, and I like the better reach enough to go through all this install crap. I'm an old slow-poke tourer, go-fast dudes may prefer the forward lean with the wind pressure to hold them up.

Gary in Fairbanks

Thanks for the insight Gary and the heads up on cleaning the new part as well as it's all well worth it, as I stated before the hole job looks pretty straight forward by the book something about detaching the throttle cable gives me the willies, maybe once I Grab ahold and do it I will think no big deal, Once again Thank for all your insight

Chris

fjr105 said:

Thanks for the insight Gary and the heads up on cleaning the new part as well as it's all well worth it, as I stated before the hole job looks pretty straight forward by the book something about detaching the throttle cable gives me the willies, maybe once I Grab ahold and do it I will think no big deal, Once again Thank for all your insight
Chris

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You won't have any big surprises. The throttle cables have plenty of slack if moved against the frame inside the brake lines. Be sure to check the brake line connection box to frame bolt. Good to put some threadlocker on it and make sure it's properly torqued to the frame.

One thing you may consider doing while the tank is propped up to connect the ignition switch leads, is to check how much adjusting threads are available on the throttle pull cable adjuster next to the twist grip. If you're getting near the limit due to cable stretch, and would like some more margin for later adjustment, then take up some slack in the same pull cable by moving the other cable end next to the engine up a bit in it's bracket. There's two 10mm nuts there that secure the dark green engine end of the cable to it's bracket. Turn the slack adjuster by the twistgrip in (shorten) until only 1/8" of adjusting threads are exposed. Then with the tank up, heat shield off, and the other cable end exposed, loosen the top nut on the end fitting all the way and slide the dark green cable end out of it's bracket to the left just enough to turn the lower nut down with a finger until there's only about 1/4" of threaded cable end exposed. Reinsert the cable end in it's bracket and tighten the top nut to hold. Then take up any slack in the upper adjuster as required. It's easy to run out of upper adjuster threads over time, and this simple adjustment will give you more to play with where it's easy to get to. Lube both throttle cables as well while they're out of the twistgrip housing.

Gary in Fairbanks

FJRGuy said:

Have you tried pulling in your elbows to fix the wrist issue?

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Actually, just the opposite is true for me.

Bending my arms more (elbows more outward) helps take pressure off the thumb side of my palms and redistributes weight to the pinky side of my hand. Unfortunately, bending the arms more puts more overall weight on the arms and is counterproductive to overall comfort. I believe angling the bar up more will help distribute more weight to the pinky side of my hand and still allow me to sit as upright as possible on those day-long rides.

Installed the heli triple 3-28-09 took about 4 hours briefly looked over the instruction and off I went, drilling the ignition turned out to be the worst part, the throttle as it turns out is just like a dirt bike, so it was not a big a deal as I was making out to be, anyway WOW feels great and road tested at 130 mph smooth as butter.