Slider install

Just like the details in other thread suggest, it's an easy, peasy install. 12 minutes it took me from start to finish.

Be sure to have a torque wrench handy before you start.

I am clueless as to why my dealer quoted me 1.5 hours labor time to install them. Doinks. Clearly the guy was being a d1ck. (Funny, I thought I asked to get the sliders installed... not to have a sidecar built and attached...)

Too bad it might cost him his job... (I learned during the follow up call the dealer did for me to rate my experience that the service writer I was dealing with was being "performance managed" due to a lack of customer interaction skills.)

No matter - just make sure you have the correct tools on hand, pay attention to which one fits which side (my set had one longer & one shorter - longer on left side) and have at it. I'll check my bolts again after the first ride (re-torque) and in another 100 miles, then with oil changes.

Thanks, I've been thinking of buying the sliders next. Now that I know it is an easy install it will be easier to come off the $$. :yahoo:

I say this every time I see this. If your sliders go into the engine mount bolt holes, and not on a separate bracket, then Loctite is not appropriate. Torque correctly and leave it be. Check the torque after a while to accomodate pinching of the sleeve.

wfooshee said:

I say this every time I see this. If your sliders go into the engine mount bolt holes, and not on a separate bracket, then Loctite is not appropriate. Torque correctly and leave it be. Check the torque after a while to accomodate pinching of the sleeve.

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now that I see your post, I seem to recall this tidbit of wisdom being mentioned to me before. D'oh!

Well, here's hoping the loctite won't cause any problems, and I'm grateful i only used a small dab on each.

I'm going to edit the OP to reflect this info too.

Just another note. Make sure you remove any protective coating or oil on high tensile steel bolts that come with your sliders and check the threads for damage as damaged bolt threads will chew out the alloy thread on your bike. Just my 2 cents worth

raymond said:

Just another note. Make sure you remove any protective coating or oil on high tensile steel bolts that come with your sliders and check the threads for damage as damaged bolt threads will chew out the alloy thread on your bike. Just my 2 cents worth

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Ok, I think this will continue the thread or someone can direct me to the correct on. Still on Sliders....Removing right sllder bolt - no locite - jammed going forward or backwards. Pretty sure somehow I stripped it. Im thinking shop, bore out and rethread or sleeve. Anyone have this happen and have success with a good solution that they have used.? Trying to get ready for EOM in two weeks.

Thanks

RickyRey

I'm going to install a set of sliders next. The OES sliders look like a good choice. I don't have a shop manuel yet. It sounds like no locktite should be used. What are the torque specs for the sliders?

Different subject about the Premier Cycle Sport Touring Rack I just installed. The rear grab rails stay in place and the new rack mounts with the 3 existing bolts. I used locktite when I put them in last week. Was this a bad idea? Should I remove the bolts and put some sort of antisieze or something on them to prevent stripping? What are the proper torque specs for the rack?

Wow that was a lot of questions! Thanks for any help.

sportsguy said:

... it's an easy, peasy install. 12 minutes it took me from start to finish.

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I think my time was 14 minutes.. Rechecking torque at oil change is a good idea SportsGuy...

Can't believe they quoted 1.5 hours - heck, I need to change jobs!

No Loctite...check. How about anti-seize? Steel bolts in aluminium engine case. Is 35 ft lb the correct torque?

Paul

Wondering if they bolt right on without doing any cutting into side panels?

el camino kid said:

No Loctite...check. How about anti-seize? Steel bolts in aluminium engine case. Is 35 ft lb the correct torque?
Paul

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No loc-tite, no anti-seize. These are engine mount bolts we're talking about. 35 ft-lb, left side first.

YAM TOM said:

Wondering if they bolt right on without doing any cutting into side panels?

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On GenII bikes, no cutting or drilling. The engine bolt is visible in the fairing slot. On GenI, you either drill a hole in the fairing to get directly onto the bolt, or you buy the more expensive kit with offset brackets which position the slider in the fairing slot.

WOW , what a wealth of information this site is.... Going to do the install of my sliders this week...

Curious about something. If the bike falls on the slider, won't the impact be transferred directly to the frame/engine cases possibly resulting in greater damage/cost than replacing some plastic?

Thank you to everyone who has shared their experience on this topic. I just put my sliders on not two hours ago even though I have had the bike for six months. Knew I should have done them sooner and I imagine that the feeling I have had knowing I needed them is similar to riding without insurance!

I know they do not keep accidents or drops from happening but I can see how they may save some parts if/when I do drop it! And they do not look too bad!