Taper Bearings for the 2006 FJR1300AE

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FJRocket

Doctor Throckenstein !!!
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Pretty soon I'll be removing my forks and shipping them to GPS. Also, I'll be changing out my triple clamp to the Heli so I can get the bars back closer to my Tyrannosaurus Rex proportioned arms. :( While I'm at it, should I go ahead and dump the stock bearings and go for tapered (or other) bearings? If I do, what changes might I expect (if any).

Anyone have part numbers and distributor for the bearings? Recommended replacement technique or tips?

BTW: the OEM part numbers for the bearings and the seals are the same for all models. So far.

Looks like maybe the All Balls kit #22-1003 might be the way to go?

 
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+taper + bearing leads us to this thread where vtcornercarver answers all in post #19; followed by Bounce in post #20 who links you to his web site for the 'how to'. Looks like you will be going to allballs!

 
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Thanks for the lesson in "search", Ion. I had already read the thread but after reading Bounce's link to the "rebuttal" on the other forum, I really thought this might be an iffy purchase. I like what Warchild had to say, and Smitty and I have talked about it, too. Still, there's not much feedback about real world results after the change, and especially not on a 2006.

I went ahead and ordered an ALL BALLS set from our pal Tony (Lotecredneck) of Texarkana and he's shipping them with the Heli set back triple clamp.

I still would like to hear from those of you who have made the bearing change, especially if you have done it on a 2006 FJR.

Once I get my bearing set in and test ride, I'll report back. It may be hard to discern how much they improve the feel of the bike since I'm not doing the bearing change until I remove my forks and have them rebuilt/upgraded at GPS, as well as upgrade the triple clamp.

Anyone?

 
Well, I have the AllBalls kit sitting in the basement and had good intentions of installing them. But, the Service Manager at my dealership talked me out of changing the fork oil @ 12K miles and one year. So I'll wait and do the fork oil and bearings next year. It makes sense for you as your going to have it all apart anyway.

I don't know for sure, but I am guessing this. These bearings won't make hardley any difference to the way the bike feels. However, when the factory ones have pitted races after (X) amount of miles, the roller bearings will take 3 or 4 times that amount before they need replacing. I think it is probably just a longevity thing.

 
Well, I had sworn off posts in Tech, but this looks fairly non-controversial, so here's my take on it.

Just put them in Frank a couple weeks ago. No riding experience on this bike with them, but I have put them in several other bikes, and the change was well worth it-much more contact area, the result being a more solid feel in front. Now these were older bikes, but with good condition front necks and bearings-I don't doubt there will be similar results on the feej, not at all. Install is straightforward, the only real touchy part is getting the lower inner race off of the stem-I used a dremel cut-off wheel, cut the race at 90 degrees to it's mounting ( in other words, the disc was in line with the stem), use care, and a steady hand, you don't need to cut it off completely-get about 2/3 of the way through, and you'll hear a sharp CRACK from the race-the pressure of the press fit will split it and you can just pop it off with a set of pliers. I used a long brass drift to pop the neck races out-there are circular notches in the neck to facilitate locating the drift against the races, you'll see it when everything is out. Use the old races as protectors when hammering in the new ones, be sure to fully seat them, easy to tell as the sound when rapping them changes to a more solid sounding tone, get them started as evenly as possible and work in a circle till they're fully in, then a couple more raps around to be sure. The old race will just lift out, a taper in the neck ensures they won't be trapped. The lower bearing has to be pressed onto the neck shaft, don't hammer this one-if no press available have a machine shop do it, there is no substitute for this install IMHO as the stem is a press fit into the lower clamp-get carried away and cock the stem in the lower tree and you're fooked. The upper is a close slip fit-no need for pressing this one. Be sure to install the supplied seal before pressing the lower bearing on-forget and back off it comes, probably junked in the process. Some have suggested more torque on the nuts than oe for this app, I don't know about that. Tapered roller bearings don't like a lot of preload, I set mine at 15lbs, we'll see how that works. Be prepared to retorque after a few hundred miles of seating anyway-if it felt a little loose, add a pound or two but don't get carried away-there should be no drag when turning the forks side to side with the wheel suspended. Grease the bearings like a wheel bearing-press it through so that it is forced through the rollers and out each end from the back of the rollers, don't forget to grease the surface the seals ride on-be generous as this is what prevents dirt and water intrusion. Pretty much it. The bearings and races are the same top and bottom, as well as the seals, so no mixing those up. All in all, pretty straightforward. Hope this is what you were looking for. :)

 
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Well, I had sworn off posts in Tech, but this looks fairly non-controversial, so here's my take on it.Just put them in Frank a couple weeks ago. No riding experience on this bike with them, but I have put them in several other bikes, and the change was well worth it-much more contact area, the result being a more solid feel in front. Now these were older bikes, but with good condition front necks and bearings-I don't doubt there will be similar results on the feej, not at all. Install is straightforward, the only real touchy part is getting the lower inner race off of the stem-I used a dremel cut-off wheel, cut the race at 90 degrees to it's mounting ( in other words, the disc was in line with the stem), use care, and a steady hand, you don't need to cut it off completely-get about 2/3 of the way through, and you'll hear a sharp CRACK from the race-the pressure of the press fit will split it and you can just pop it off with a set of pliers. I used a long brass drift to pop the neck races out-there are circular notches in the neck to facilitate locating the drift against the races, you'll see it when everything is out. Use the old races as protectors when hammering in the new ones, be sure to fully seat them, easy to tell as the sound when rapping them changes to a more solid sounding tone, get them started as evenly as possible and work in a circle till they're fully in, then a couple more raps around to be sure. The old race will just lift out, a taper in the neck ensures they won't be trapped. The lower bearing has to be pressed onto the neck shaft, don't hammer this one-if no press available have a machine shop do it, there is no substitute for this install IMHO as the stem is a press fit into the lower clamp-get carried away and cock the stem in the lower tree and you're fooked. The upper is a close slip fit-no need for pressing this one. Be sure to install the supplied seal before pressing the lower bearing on-forget and back off it comes, probably junked in the process. Some have suggested more torque on the nuts than oe for this app, I don't know about that. Tapered roller bearings don't like a lot of preload, I set mine at 15lbs, we'll see how that works. Be prepared to retorque after a few hundred miles of seating anyway-if it felt a little loose, add a pound or two but don't get carried away-there should be no drag when turning the forks side to side with the wheel suspended. Grease the bearings like a wheel bearing-press it through so that it is forced through the rollers and out each end from the back of the rollers, don't forget to grease the surface the seals ride on-be generous as this is what prevents dirt and water intrusion. Pretty much it. The bearings and races are the same top and bottom, as well as the seals, so no mixing those up. All in all, pretty straightforward. Hope this is what you were looking for. :)
GAWD, I get a woodie from reading a good tech write up!! Just one question now that you've got me putting ONE MORE mod on my to do list: what was the ballpark dollar figure for the parts for this, Rad?

EDIT TO ADD: Nevermind, I just found it -- $32!!! Cool!!!

 
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I did it on my 05... I think a big improvement IMHO.. Cheap... $35. bucks. :) Smitty

 
Well, ........ Hope this is what you were looking for. :)
Holy crap, Rad! You must have typer's cramp after that report! Nice one!

Anyone else have a report on their bearing change? I think we got the how-to covered. Still looking to see if anyone thinks they got a qualitative change.

 
Well, I had sworn off posts in Tech, but this looks fairly non-controversial, so here's my take on it.Just put them in Frank a couple weeks ago. No riding experience on this bike with them, but I have put them in several other bikes, and the change was well worth it-much more contact area, the result being a more solid feel in front. Now these were older bikes, but with good condition front necks and bearings-I don't doubt there will be similar results on the feej, not at all. Install is straightforward, the only real touchy part is getting the lower inner race off of the stem-I used a dremel cut-off wheel, cut the race at 90 degrees to it's mounting ( in other words, the disc was in line with the stem), use care, and a steady hand, you don't need to cut it off completely-get about 2/3 of the way through, and you'll hear a sharp CRACK from the race-the pressure of the press fit will split it and you can just pop it off with a set of pliers. I used a long brass drift to pop the neck races out-there are circular notches in the neck to facilitate locating the drift against the races, you'll see it when everything is out. Use the old races as protectors when hammering in the new ones, be sure to fully seat them, easy to tell as the sound when rapping them changes to a more solid sounding tone, get them started as evenly as possible and work in a circle till they're fully in, then a couple more raps around to be sure. The old race will just lift out, a taper in the neck ensures they won't be trapped. The lower bearing has to be pressed onto the neck shaft, don't hammer this one-if no press available have a machine shop do it, there is no substitute for this install IMHO as the stem is a press fit into the lower clamp-get carried away and cock the stem in the lower tree and you're fooked. The upper is a close slip fit-no need for pressing this one. Be sure to install the supplied seal before pressing the lower bearing on-forget and back off it comes, probably junked in the process. Some have suggested more torque on the nuts than oe for this app, I don't know about that. Tapered roller bearings don't like a lot of preload, I set mine at 15lbs, we'll see how that works. Be prepared to retorque after a few hundred miles of seating anyway-if it felt a little loose, add a pound or two but don't get carried away-there should be no drag when turning the forks side to side with the wheel suspended. Grease the bearings like a wheel bearing-press it through so that it is forced through the rollers and out each end from the back of the rollers, don't forget to grease the surface the seals ride on-be generous as this is what prevents dirt and water intrusion. Pretty much it. The bearings and races are the same top and bottom, as well as the seals, so no mixing those up. All in all, pretty straightforward. Hope this is what you were looking for. :)
Radman i appreciate your knowledge and the way you take time to explain the tech issues i come from a heavy equipment mechanical background and always learn from your responses. thanks again
 
Anyone else have a report on their bearing change?
Not on the FJR... only 'cuz I haven't gotten to it yet.

But it made quite a noticeable improvement on the Blackbird!

Here's a few install photos of that job:

Using a nice Harbor Freight 10" hardened steel drift and 5lb mallet, I popped the old races out easy as could be. As you look down the steering neck opening, you will see there are two large opposing notches near the bearing races. These notches provide an ample perch opportunity for your drift. You'll be able to place a large section of the drift directly on the bearing race you’re driving out. The two races popped out with no issues.

Below are the Blackbird's OEM ball bearings after they are removed (obviously different from the FJR's factory bearings... no nylon cages used here!) The set on the right is the lower bearing; the race on top is what you'll use to drive the new tapered bearings (lower) into place. And the others you'll use to drive the new tapered bearing races into their respective recesses:

oemballs.jpg


Here's the upper stem tapered bearings on a test fit prior to the grease packing job:

uppersteering_dry.jpg


And here's the first of many grease-packing strokes (<insert gay-ass joke here>... :eek: ) Below, I am using the trusty Mobil One Fully Synthetic Universal Grease to pack these tapered babies:

packingm1.jpg


On the right you see the three main hand tools needed: 10" drift, 5-lb mallet. 1 1/4" I.D pipe approx 12" long. Using the OEM lower race as a drift, here I have just finished driving the new lower tapered bearings onto the bottom of the steering stem.

tools.jpg


At this point, the steering stem is wiped free of excess grease, and re-inserted into the frame neck. I am happy to find the Blackbird takes the exact same steering torque tool as my old ST1100, so I am blessed with already having the correct tool for the job. The upper brace is torqued the 25 Nm, then worked from stop-to-stop several times, then retorqued to the same setting again. A lock-tab washer is inserted before the final locknut is snugged up and locking tabs aligned.

Here is that spendy-ass Honda Steering Stem Socket p/n: 07916-3710101 seen here sitting atop the steering stem just before I moved it to install the upper triple-tree:

finaltorque.jpg


All done!

toptripletree.jpg


 
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