What do I do next?

Calabash · Apr 30, 2006

I was changing the oil today and the oil drain bolt was hard as hell to take off, it took all I could just to loosen it. Drained the oil and proceeded to put the bolt back on. I had the torque wrench and had it set at 31 lbs to torque down. I kept tightening and did not hear it click, then all of a sudden the nut got loose again and I knew I had stripped it. I am sick about this, I have only had the bike for 2 days and now this...

:angry2:

I put another bolt back on but it too was loose tightening up. So now I have a new bike with stripped out oil drain threads.

My question is what do I do next? All help is appreciated.

Feejer/Weejer man · Apr 30, 2006

Calabash said:
I was changing the oil today and the oil drain bolt was hard as hell to take off, it took all I could just to loosen it. Drained the oil and proceeded to put the bolt back on. I had the torque wrench and had it set at 31 lbs to torque down. I kept tightening and did not hear it click, then all of a sudden the nut got loose again and I knew I had stripped it. I am sick about this, I have only had the bike for 2 days and now this... :angry2:
I put another bolt back on but it too was loose tightening up. So now I have a new bike with stripped out oil drain threads.

My question is what do I do next? All help is appreciated.

Helicoil is a fix for this. Sometimes the torque wrench malfuntions. I always set mine short to start with then torque it to the recommended. I usually don't torque this or the rear drive bolts, just to feel. Snug it up and go. I know I'll get grief over this but for thirty years on my cars and bikes and never lost a bolt or had any leaks.

radman · Apr 30, 2006

There is a rash of this every new delivery period-you're not the first, and won't be the last. It has been said over and over-DO NOT TORQUE TO 31 POUNDS!!!!!!!!. I never torque the drain bolts-just snug is sufficient. I would imagine half that figure is more appropriate, but couldn't say for sure. Anyway, +1 on the Heli, it's that or a pan. Once coiled, install plug, add 4 qts of old oil, then drain to remove debris.

RTSR1/FJR · Apr 30, 2006

fjrvtx1300s said:
Calabash said:

I was changing the oil today and the oil drain bolt was hard as hell to take off, it took all I could just to loosen it. Drained the oil and proceeded to put the bolt back on. I had the torque wrench and had it set at 31 lbs to torque down. I kept tightening and did not hear it click, then all of a sudden the nut got loose again and I knew I had stripped it. I am sick about this, I have only had the bike for 2 days and now this... :angry2:

I put another bolt back on but it too was loose tightening up. So now I have a new bike with stripped out oil drain threads.

My question is what do I do next? All help is appreciated.

Click to expand...

Helicoil is a fix for this. Sometimes the torque wrench malfuntions. I always set mine short to start with then torque it to the recommended. I usually don't torque this or the rear drive bolts, just to feel. Snug it up and go. I know I'll get grief over this but for thirty years on my cars and bikes and never lost a bolt or had any leaks.

oster_stupid: Helicoil is your only choice except for a new pan!

FJR Gary · Apr 30, 2006

+1 on the not torqueing to 31 ft-lbs. I did my first oil change yesterday. After putting the oil pan drain plug back in, I got out my torque wrench, set to 31 and started to tighten the plug. It seemed to be pretty tight, and still no click from the torque wrench. So I just tightened to what seemed like the proper amount. Same with the final drive drain plug. Went for a 75 mile ride this afternoon and saw no leaks.

Fabone · Apr 30, 2006

:whistling:

bete · Apr 30, 2006

Is this a 06?. When I changed oil the first time on my new 06. I couldn't believe how thight the plug was. I have to think it was well over toqued. I was afraid it would strip when I put it back to spec. so I fust snuged it. bete.

radman · Apr 30, 2006

Fabone said:
They also make a self-tapping drain plug bolt, just for this problem. They come in different sizes and I've got them at my local parts store. If you coat it with grease before cutting threads, you'll capture most all the chips. There's no need to torque this bolt. Use a nylon washer and hand tight, not ham-fisted tight.

While the self tapper is a workable fix for steel pans, not so hot on aluminum. Since it's self cutting, self tapping, it opens up the threads (cuts) more each time it is reinstalled. Since it is oversized, it doesn't cut the threads to a size where a standard plug could be used once it has been opened up. Where this isn't usually a problem on a steelpan, it would simply delay the inevitable on an aluminum pan, to the point where replacement would be the only option. A Heli-Coil would restore the original size, and if a degree of care was used, last a very long time.

MrVvrroomm · Apr 30, 2006

Helicoils are for hacks. Use one of these: Time-Sert

skyway · Apr 30, 2006

Since the drain bolt will be removed/replaced over the life of the bike, I would suggest a different insert than a helicoil.

This type of insert known as a key-locking style and will be a much stronger long term solution. it will cost you more up front, but worth the extra IMO. YMMV.

MrVvrroomm · Apr 30, 2006

The BEST way to repair it would be to replace the oil pan, or as Yamaha calls it, "strainer cover". The part number for '03 - '05 is 5JW-13417-00-00. I'll go out on a limb and assume it's the same for the '06. $145ish, probably cheaper if you call Gary McCoy at University Motors.

Rickster · Apr 30, 2006

+1 on not using Helicoil brand threaded inserts. Try keen-sert.

Calabash · Apr 30, 2006

bete said:
Is this a 06?. When I changed oil the first time on my new 06. I couldn't believe how thight the plug was. I have to think it was well over toqued. I was afraid it would strip when I put it back to spec. so I fust snuged it. bete.

Yep an 06 that was tight as hell.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and support. I am going to take it to the dealer and probably go with the helicoil.

yamaha1300rider · May 1, 2006

Both fjrvtx1300s and Radman say:

Snug it up and go

I'm sure this is good advice to the more experienced spanner but doesn't help less experienced people like me who need a scientific approach- the trouble is it's relative. e.g does it mean tighten till you feel resistance or tighten till washer flattened - difficult to see the latter.

Anyway since I read the warning over a year ago not to torque to 31 ftlbs, I've reduced the torque by 30% and never a problem. Same reduction for filter and rear drive bolts

galxy5 · May 1, 2006

yep ,, snug it up man ,, overtightening it will break the threads down over time ,, ya gotta think long term use when it comes to drain plugs ,, thats why they come with the crush washer ,, so you can just snug it up !!!!!

try the Timesert brand ,, I have used it in my vintage bikes with great results ,,

Ari Rankum · May 1, 2006

Is this a 06?. When I changed oil the first time on my new 06. I couldn't believe how thight the plug was. I have to think it was well over toqued. I was afraid it would strip when I put it back to spec. so I fust snuged it. bete.

+1 on the factory overtorque. I thought my ******* brother had gotten a job assembling FJRs at Yamaha and didn't tell me. I couldn't believe how tight that bolt was at the first oil change.

RTSR1/FJR · May 1, 2006

skyway said:
Since the drain bolt will be removed/replaced over the life of the bike, I would suggest a different insert than a helicoil.
This type of insert known as a key-locking style and will be a much stronger long term solution. it will cost you more up front, but worth the extra IMO. YMMV.

Better known in the space industry as a Keen-cert. I'd be afraid it might weep though.

Spedboy · May 3, 2006

Why the helicoil business at all? Why not just take it off and use a drill press for mechanical alignment and hand turn the chuck with the appropriate tap to retap it to larger bolt?

Rickster · May 3, 2006

Re-tapping could work too!

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