2007 waits until water pump failure doesn't create a disaster

[RossKean]

I could only get about 2 qts of 50:50 antifreeze in.

It is difficult to get more than that out (total capacity is 2.75 US qt. for Gen II) I'm not sure if that includes the 0.26 qt. to fill the reservoir to the max. line.) I think I would run it with that for a while and drain/refill once more. Your 50:50 is now somewhat less than that due to the 0.75 qt. of water remaining in the system but you will be very close with another refill. Plus, it probably gets more crap out of there... I normally just drain and refill with 50:50 without a flush but given the condition of yours, I would do as you did and flush/run with a couple of fills with distilled water first.

When I changed from one brand of coolant to another, I drained, flushed x 2 with distilled water, added HALF the total capacity of the system with undiluted (non pre-mix) antifreeze and topped off with distilled water figuring this would bring me closest to 50:50 without wasting coolant.

I would be tempted to do a chemical flush to clear out corrosion and mineral deposits, but you would run the risk of wrecking the radiator, especially if it is already corroded.

 

[soderstromk]

I'm kind-of thinking less is more in this case - as I pulled off a corroded hose barb, put the remnants of it back in and rode uneventfully home for 3 hours.

I'm not going to "fix" anything on this beautiful machine until it clearly breaks.

 

[an-guy]

When I purchased it, my bike had off brand coca cola for coolant.

No, I'm not kidding

 

[RossKean]

When I purchased it, my bike had off brand coca cola for coolant.

No, I'm not kidding

Coolant retains its antifreeze properties indefinitely, but the additives that prevent corrosion go off eventually. I change mine with every valve check (every couple of years). In reality, this is more often than necessary but it is a convenient time to do it.

 

[user 213]

Typically coolant is a two year life span. Sadly, it's likely the most neglected fluid on a vehicle. Brake fluid is next, also on a two year cycle. As RossKean mentioned, it's not the antifreeze properties, but the anti corrosion and water pump lube properties that diminish.

For riders that don't put on the 26k between valve change intervals in two years, you really should be changing the antifreeze and brake fluids at two year intervals anyway. Preventative maintenance is CHEAP. Repairs are not.

I wouldn't be surprised that the OP's coolant was from the last valve check, several years ago, if not oem from '07.

I used to wrench on cars for money and once had a customer come in with overheating problems. Previous shops had replaced the radiator, thermostat and flushed the coolant system which made little difference. I pulled the water pump and the impeller vanes were completely gone, corroded away. It was just a spinning disk. I asked him when he last changed the coolant prior to the shop doing it for the overheating problem and he responded "never, it had coolant in it." He was the original owner and the car was 11 years old. All the heater & rad hoses were 'crunchy', rotted on the inside, and the brake fluid was chocolate syrup. He had denied the prior shop changing the hoses to "save money". He wouldn't let me do them either. ($60 in parts at the time and .5 hr labor) About two weeks later I got a call to recover the car from the road side where it had burst a hose and he had left it. At least he listened when I told him to shut it down and not drive it if a hose let go.

 

[an-guy]

Coolant retains its antifreeze properties indefinitely, but the additives that prevent corrosion go off eventually. I change mine with every valve check (every couple of years). In reality, this is more often than necessary but it is a convenient time to do it.

I see. I've heard it also becomes acidic after about 3-5 years and should be changed even if it's clean. My truck is about there now.

 

[RossKean]

I see. I've heard it also becomes acidic after about 3-5 years and should be changed even if it's clean. My truck is about there now.

Depends on the coolant and the vehicle. Same say up to six years and 100,000 miles. Older silicate formulations say quite a bit less. I still err on the side of caution and do it with valve clearance checks on the bike since it has to be drained for that anyway. (If much more than two years before valve check, I would do it anyway.)
For your truck, I would probably go with the manufacturer's recommendation with respect to coolant choice and change interval.

 

[an-guy]

Depends on the coolant and the vehicle. Same say up to six years and 100,000 miles. Older silicate formulations say quite a bit less. I still err on the side of caution and do it with valve clearance checks on the bike since it has to be drained for that anyway. (If much more than two years before valve check, I would do it anyway.)
For your truck, I would probably go with the manufacturer's recommendation with respect to coolant choice and change interval.

It's a vehicle made after 2010 (2018 Tacoma) so it probably just says everything is lifetime just like every other vehicle. Transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant, differentials, freaking motor oil lol. My transmission doesn't even have a dip stick.

 

[RossKean]

It's a vehicle made after 2010 (2018 Tacoma) so it probably just says everything is lifetime just like every other vehicle. Transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant, differentials, freaking motor oil lol. My transmission doesn't even have a dip stick.

Changing it surely isn't going to hurt anything. I would tend to get onto a vehicle-specific forum and see what other owners are saying.

 

[an-guy]

Changing it surely isn't going to hurt anything. I would tend to get onto a vehicle-specific forum and see what other owners are saying.

Yeah. Bah. I only have enough time to be a barfly in one internet forum. I'll take care of it when I get to it. I don't expect real advice about that here

 

[2GENAE]

Last year I noticed oil spots above the full line in my radiator resivor tank. The hose from the tank goes to the top outlet of the water pump. The mechanical oil seal behind the impeller was starting to fail. I purchased a Gen III pump vs parts to repair. The resivor had crack on the inside I didn't notice until I removed it to clean the oil spots. I replaced the resivor, line from it to pump, thermostat and cap. I flushed the system twice distilled water Dan did the blow thru with 1/2" hose cleared more green coolant. I purchased new O ring seal for input shaft of pump into crankcase and formed O ring/gasket for pump cover for my Gen II matching paint cover. I used O ring lube on input shaft so the O ring would not roll in the input casting groove. I use the Blue Honda Extended Life (5 years 60,000 mile) Aluminum engine 50/50 mix coolant antifreeze. Then used a LED flashlight all around the fans and looked thru the front of the radiator fins, they were not blocked to my suprise. Cap off stated engine warmed up until fans turned on closed the cap. Road it and when it cooled checked radiator and filled reservoir to the line. 8,000 miles later no issues or leaks.

 

[torch]

Older silicate formulations say quite a bit less.

FWIW: silicate formulations are fine on an older domestic V8, but not compatible with the FJR. Use only a silicate free antifreeze in these bikes to prolong the life of the waterpump.

 

[RossKean]

FWIW: silicate formulations are fine on an older domestic V8, but not compatible with the FJR. Use only a silicate free antifreeze in these bikes to prolong the life of the waterpump.

Agree. Comment was just related to silicate formulations in general - definitely not what you want to be using for the FJR. Some manufacturers are suggesting very long replacement intervals, but I will continue with my practice of changing when I do a valve check using a product suitable for systems containing aluminum.

 

[an-guy]

Agree. Comment was just related to silicate formulations in general - definitely not what you want to be using for the FJR. Some manufacturers are suggesting very long replacement intervals, but I will continue with my practice of changing when I do a valve check using a product suitable for systems containing aluminum.

What coolant do you run? I just put the advance auto asian whatever in my bike. I knew about the no silicate thing before, so hopefully I made sure it didn't have it...

 

[vzhq16]

I like following the manufacturer's recommendations. I do a drain and fill every other year with Yamacool premix.

 

[RossKean]

What coolant do you run? I just put the advance auto asian whatever in my bike. I knew about the no silicate thing before, so hopefully I made sure it didn't have it...

I think I am running some suitable version of Prestone (changed during the last valve adjustment I did). Don't remember for sure, but probably made notes in my maintenance file. I'll use the same stuff the next time...

I suspect that the stuff you used will be perfectly OK.

 

[torch]

I like following the manufacturer's recommendations. I do a drain and fill every other year with Yamacool premix.

Most Japanese waterpumps are similar in design concept and requirements, so you are probably OK. A little research on the specific product you used might be in order though.

Silicates were used as a waterpump bearing lubricant and sealant in older North American vehicles, but have an abrasive effect on the type of seals used in Japanese pumps and reportedly can react over time with aluminium.

 

[user 213]

Off topic, but I had to google it.
----
Why do modern cars not have a dipstick?

Vehicles with dipstick-less engines and transmissions came about to keep people from adding incorrect fluid. A person or non-qualified shop would add or change the fluid using the incorrect type.

----
Sounds a lot more like planned obsolescence. I seriously doubt the number of people putting incorrect fluid in their vehicles is a huge number, percentage wise. And people have been doing that as long as things that took fluid existed. It used to be considered a learning moment when you put diesel in your bike. When the oil level sensors start aging out we may start to see those cars showing up with burned up engines. Or more likely, just a new series of codes on the CEL.

Engines are tighter now, but combustion gases and minor bits will always end up in coolant and oil. For as often as we change the coolant in the bikes, splurging on a decent silicate free antifreeze shouldn't be a burden for most owners.

 

[an-guy]

Off topic, but I had to google it.
----
Why do modern cars not have a dipstick?

Vehicles with dipstick-less engines and transmissions came about to keep people from adding incorrect fluid. A person or non-qualified shop would add or change the fluid using the incorrect type.

----
Sounds a lot more like planned obsolescence. I seriously doubt the number of people putting incorrect fluid in their vehicles is a huge number, percentage wise. And people have been doing that as long as things that took fluid existed. It used to be considered a learning moment when you put diesel in your bike. When the oil level sensors start aging out we may start to see those cars showing up with burned up engines. Or more likely, just a new series of codes on the CEL.

Engines are tighter now, but combustion gases and minor bits will always end up in coolant and oil. For as often as we change the coolant in the bikes, splurging on a decent silicate free antifreeze shouldn't be a burden for most owners.

Yeah... I'm sure the amount of vehicles damaged by people using incorrect fluids is like 25x less than vehicles damaged by "lifetime fluids" and just not being able to check the level of or quality of the fluids. OEMs don't give a shart about us using the wrong fluid, and heck, the wrong fluid is usually a lot better than no fluid or way too old of fluid.