YooperDick
Well-known member
Just finished replacing the OEM rear shock on my '08-A with a Hyperpro. Be advised this discussion is only applicable to the '08 FJR 1300A and Hyperpro. I have no applicable knowledge of other models or shock absorber manufacturers.
THE GOOD
After ordering my FJR, I studied some of the discussions on this board and noted the general agreement the FJR was sprung rather weak, even with the adjustable setting on HARD. Since I bend the scale at close to 300#, it was obvious I needed this upgrade. After evaluating the options, I selected a Hyperpro from EPM Performance with a custom spring and pre-load adjuster for just under $750 delivered. (NOTE: EPM is not to be confused with Hyperpro USA, another distributer for this product.) The shock was delivered about two weeks after ordering, a somewhat delayed process since they are manufactured in Holland. It came well packaged in a reusable plastic case with installation instructions, technical specifications, as well as a spanner wrench.
The actual installation was surprisingly simple. Not that I experienced this simplicity, but looking back in retrospect, it should have been. For some reason I took some detours in the process that were foolish, stupid, or a combination of both. No need here for personal deprecation. Suffice to say I learned some things I didn't need to learn and recounting them will add no benefit to this text.
Previous posts eluded to some frustration with the need to use a Dremmel tool or partial disassembly of the sub frame. With the '08-A, there is no need to do any of this. It would seem Yamaha engineered in the ease of removal of the top bolt in this model. So, here is all you have to do:
1. Place a 2X4 or 2X6 on the floor upon which to place the center stand. A little help may be necessary here to raise the bike. This 1-1/2" increase in height will make it easier to remove the OEM shock from under the bike.
2. Shim under the rear wheel to support the weight of the wheel and swing arm. I used a foot long 4X4 and a scrap piece of 5/16" flat stock of metal to fill the space between the tire and the floor.
3. Remove the seats and both side panels.
4. From the right side of the bike, locate the metal bracket that wraps around a rubber tube. The bracket is behind the ABS tubing and partially obstructs the head of the shock top bolt. There is an 8mm hex head screw holding this bracket. Remove this screw and rotate the bracket toward you to reveal the unobstructed access to the bolt head.
5. Remove the three nuts that hold the HARD/SOFT mechanism on the left side of the bike.
6. Remove the three screws that hold the mechanism together and separate the two halves.
7. Disconnect the cable ends from the adjustment mechanism and set the mechanism aside. This will facilitate removal of the OEM shock. Others have had success unplugging the two connectors to the rectifier so the mechanism stays attached to the shock when removed but I couldn't get the connectors loose. This method is really easy.
8. Remove the shock top bolt by inserting sockets with extensions attached to ratchets from each side of the bike. I believe they are both 17mm. When removing this bolt, be aware there is a bushing on the right side of the bike that the head of the bolt will go against. This bushing will probably fall out but is easy to replace before mounting the new shock.
9. Remove the bolt at the top end of the "dog bones" from underneath the bike.
10. Remove the shock bottom bolt and the OEM shock will fall out. DONE.
Installation of the Hyperpro is as follows:
1. If the shock is so equipped, route the pre-load adjuster through the shock opening first followed by the shock. Note; the pre-load adjuster will mount on the right side of the bike, not on the left from where you removed the HARD/SOFT adjuster. (More about this later.) Be sure to replace the bushing that fell out into the top mount.
2. Insert the top bolt from the right side of the bike while holding and aligning the top of the shock.
3. Insert the Hyperpro supplied bolt for the bottom of the shock and the original bolt for the "dog bones". These bolts should slide in easily if the replacement shock length is the same as the OEM's. Mine lined up perfectly.
4. Torque the afore mentioned three bolts according to spec.
5. Mount the pre-load adjuster bracket and the pre-load adjuster if so equipped.
6. Insert the 8mm screw holding the tube bracket by the top bolt head into its original location.
7. Replace side panels and seats. DONE.
THE BAD
When I originally received the shock, I noticed all the necessary hardware was not included in the package. Missing was the shock bottom bolt, nut, washers, as well as the pre-load adjuster bracket and hardware. A telephone call had to be made to EPM asking for the parts. Since they didn't stock them, it took about two weeks for Hyperpro in Holland to get the parts to EPM from where they were sent to me first class mail to expedite delivery.
After I installed the shock and torqued the bolts, the last remaining task was to mount the pre-load adjuster to the bracket. Lo and behold, the hydraulic line was too short to reach the bracket!!! This really made me sore, not only because I should have checked it for 'fitment' before torquing but there was no reason the line should be short. So, I called EPM to complain and they were surprised since they had sold other shocks for FJRs and never received a complaint. I agreed to take some pictures and e-mail them to EPM for diagnosis. A long story made short, the shock was not set up properly when manufactured. Not only was the hydraulic line not oriented properly on the retaining collar of the shock (pointing UP instead of BACK) but the retaining collar needed to be rotated an additional 30 degrees to extend the reach of the line . This was accomplished by placing the top link of the shock in a vice and rotating the collar with the spanner wrench. These adjustments allowed the adjuster to reach the bracket with ease. To be fair, EPM answered every call I made and assisted in diagnosing the problem. They also were disappointed the factory had not set the hydraulic line orientation properly and were going to file a complaint.
THE UGLY
That would be me, a 67 year old creaker porpoising around the garage floor performing work that should be done by someone in a younger man's cloths. A casual passer-by would probably best describe the scene as masturbation; the 'ol boy looked like he was enjoying it but certainly nothing you would want to stand and watch.
THE GOOD
After ordering my FJR, I studied some of the discussions on this board and noted the general agreement the FJR was sprung rather weak, even with the adjustable setting on HARD. Since I bend the scale at close to 300#, it was obvious I needed this upgrade. After evaluating the options, I selected a Hyperpro from EPM Performance with a custom spring and pre-load adjuster for just under $750 delivered. (NOTE: EPM is not to be confused with Hyperpro USA, another distributer for this product.) The shock was delivered about two weeks after ordering, a somewhat delayed process since they are manufactured in Holland. It came well packaged in a reusable plastic case with installation instructions, technical specifications, as well as a spanner wrench.
The actual installation was surprisingly simple. Not that I experienced this simplicity, but looking back in retrospect, it should have been. For some reason I took some detours in the process that were foolish, stupid, or a combination of both. No need here for personal deprecation. Suffice to say I learned some things I didn't need to learn and recounting them will add no benefit to this text.
Previous posts eluded to some frustration with the need to use a Dremmel tool or partial disassembly of the sub frame. With the '08-A, there is no need to do any of this. It would seem Yamaha engineered in the ease of removal of the top bolt in this model. So, here is all you have to do:
1. Place a 2X4 or 2X6 on the floor upon which to place the center stand. A little help may be necessary here to raise the bike. This 1-1/2" increase in height will make it easier to remove the OEM shock from under the bike.
2. Shim under the rear wheel to support the weight of the wheel and swing arm. I used a foot long 4X4 and a scrap piece of 5/16" flat stock of metal to fill the space between the tire and the floor.
3. Remove the seats and both side panels.
4. From the right side of the bike, locate the metal bracket that wraps around a rubber tube. The bracket is behind the ABS tubing and partially obstructs the head of the shock top bolt. There is an 8mm hex head screw holding this bracket. Remove this screw and rotate the bracket toward you to reveal the unobstructed access to the bolt head.
5. Remove the three nuts that hold the HARD/SOFT mechanism on the left side of the bike.
6. Remove the three screws that hold the mechanism together and separate the two halves.
7. Disconnect the cable ends from the adjustment mechanism and set the mechanism aside. This will facilitate removal of the OEM shock. Others have had success unplugging the two connectors to the rectifier so the mechanism stays attached to the shock when removed but I couldn't get the connectors loose. This method is really easy.
8. Remove the shock top bolt by inserting sockets with extensions attached to ratchets from each side of the bike. I believe they are both 17mm. When removing this bolt, be aware there is a bushing on the right side of the bike that the head of the bolt will go against. This bushing will probably fall out but is easy to replace before mounting the new shock.
9. Remove the bolt at the top end of the "dog bones" from underneath the bike.
10. Remove the shock bottom bolt and the OEM shock will fall out. DONE.
Installation of the Hyperpro is as follows:
1. If the shock is so equipped, route the pre-load adjuster through the shock opening first followed by the shock. Note; the pre-load adjuster will mount on the right side of the bike, not on the left from where you removed the HARD/SOFT adjuster. (More about this later.) Be sure to replace the bushing that fell out into the top mount.
2. Insert the top bolt from the right side of the bike while holding and aligning the top of the shock.
3. Insert the Hyperpro supplied bolt for the bottom of the shock and the original bolt for the "dog bones". These bolts should slide in easily if the replacement shock length is the same as the OEM's. Mine lined up perfectly.
4. Torque the afore mentioned three bolts according to spec.
5. Mount the pre-load adjuster bracket and the pre-load adjuster if so equipped.
6. Insert the 8mm screw holding the tube bracket by the top bolt head into its original location.
7. Replace side panels and seats. DONE.
THE BAD
When I originally received the shock, I noticed all the necessary hardware was not included in the package. Missing was the shock bottom bolt, nut, washers, as well as the pre-load adjuster bracket and hardware. A telephone call had to be made to EPM asking for the parts. Since they didn't stock them, it took about two weeks for Hyperpro in Holland to get the parts to EPM from where they were sent to me first class mail to expedite delivery.
After I installed the shock and torqued the bolts, the last remaining task was to mount the pre-load adjuster to the bracket. Lo and behold, the hydraulic line was too short to reach the bracket!!! This really made me sore, not only because I should have checked it for 'fitment' before torquing but there was no reason the line should be short. So, I called EPM to complain and they were surprised since they had sold other shocks for FJRs and never received a complaint. I agreed to take some pictures and e-mail them to EPM for diagnosis. A long story made short, the shock was not set up properly when manufactured. Not only was the hydraulic line not oriented properly on the retaining collar of the shock (pointing UP instead of BACK) but the retaining collar needed to be rotated an additional 30 degrees to extend the reach of the line . This was accomplished by placing the top link of the shock in a vice and rotating the collar with the spanner wrench. These adjustments allowed the adjuster to reach the bracket with ease. To be fair, EPM answered every call I made and assisted in diagnosing the problem. They also were disappointed the factory had not set the hydraulic line orientation properly and were going to file a complaint.
THE UGLY
That would be me, a 67 year old creaker porpoising around the garage floor performing work that should be done by someone in a younger man's cloths. A casual passer-by would probably best describe the scene as masturbation; the 'ol boy looked like he was enjoying it but certainly nothing you would want to stand and watch.
