A different ignition problem.

Ok so the other day I turn the key on the bike and ... nothing! Crap! So I wiggled the harness a little and it cycles the start. mmmmm? So I wiggle harness again and it goes through the cycle again. So no problem I'll just go home and get on the forum and look up the ignition fix. Well no problem so far eh?

So first things first I remove the fork clamp with ignition intact. I used welding clamps to hold it still while I gutted it. I've heard they are quite slippery.



So the first thing to do is drill out the little headless screws so it's best to use a centre punch so the drill has somewhere to sit. #4 . Be careful when drilling not to go too deep. I almost didn't have enough screw left to grab onto for removal. #5



#1 shows a better lok at what's left of screw. #2 shows the wear on the copper contact ( I suspect this is my propblem) #3 shows the build up of goop (technical term).



So I go looking for the offending loose wire so I can solder it back together .... WTF they are all secure and in the right spot!



So now I'm confused! No broken or loose wires. What now? So I hooked it back up and cycled the key. It works! mmm wiggle the harness where it goes into the ignition housing and the problem re-appears. I took it all apart again and cleaned the whole inside of the switch and lubed the switch with industrial vasoline. Put it back together and it works. So in reality all I really did was clean and lube the switch. And it works now, go figure. I would like to thank those on the forum that have taken the time to post the problem solving they have found to work. It sure makes things easier for the rest of us.

fjrob,

Sorry to see what you had to go through with this problem...hopefully your fix/repair is permanent.

Have you put on Brody's Ignition Relay? IF you have not, it will soften the current load going through the switch. I have added to mine as preventative maintenance.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=596876

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Thanks for the heads up. I pm'd Brodie.

Rob,

Check for any signs of heat damage on the sides of the white plastic piece. You may find some distortion where the copper "slides" back and forth.

Canadian FJR

03HiYoSilver said:

fjrob,
Sorry to see what you had to go through with this problem...hopefully your fix/repair is permanent.

Have you put on Brody's Ignition Relay? IF you have not, it will soften the current load going through the switch. I have added to mine as preventative maintenance.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=596876

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Click to expand...

Gunny! I put in the Brodie relay right after the new switch was installed. Brodie will tell you not to bother with his relay unless your switch is in good working order...

Canadian FJR said:

Rob,
Check for any signs of heat damage on the sides of the white plastic piece. You may find some distortion where the copper "slides" back and forth.

Canadian FJR

Click to expand...

Thanks Scott... I looked for any sign of trouble but found none. The plastic looks as new. No melting or distortion at all. Cleaned it out and regreased it and that seems to cure the wire wiggle induced failure. I hope.

FastJoyRide said:

03HiYoSilver said:

fjrob,
Sorry to see what you had to go through with this problem...hopefully your fix/repair is permanent.

Have you put on Brody's Ignition Relay? IF you have not, it will soften the current load going through the switch. I have added to mine as preventative maintenance.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=596876

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Click to expand...

Gunny! I put in the Brodie relay right after the new switch was installed. Brodie will tell you not to bother with his relay unless your switch is in good working order...

Click to expand...

I think the switch is fine now, I don't know what else to look for though. Cleaning it out seemed to make a difference.

Hi Rob

Your ignition switch is defiantly the old design with a single set of contacts for the heavy current circuit ( red and tan wires ). Since your bike is a '03 it's had 6 years to weather and wear. Opening it up and giving it a good cleaning didn't hurt it at all. So long as the white plastic carrier has no heat distorted areas the copper wipers should work fine. One hint, if you index the carrier 180 degrees and re assemble the current will be switched by a new set of contacts.

Can't hurt.

Since you serviced your ignition switch it should work for a long time before another service.

That said, my Ignition Relay Harness is designed to divert the high current away from the switch contacts. The 70 amp Automotive relay is better equipped to handle that burden. The key switch is still required to trigger the relay in my harness.

In short, my device will help keep your key switch healthy.
I sent you a PM concerning my Ignition Relay Harness.

Thank you



Brodie

Brodie,

Do you think "industrial Vaseline" would be prone to having dirt stick to it and contaminate the contacts with grime over time?

It wouldn't have been my choice, unless the switch was hermetically sealed.

Brazos Parker sent me the link to this thread - thanks Mike! Since leaving the bike for a week (vacation) she lights up every time I turn the key. Rode 4.2 miles around the block the other day and no problem. Wiggle the wires and the key - no loss of power. Can't think of what else might be the problem so I'll take a try at Rob's fix.

To recap - bike stalled at light, started right up, gauges remained on. Parked at work, did it one more time, and then I stopped and parked, turned the key and nothing, no signs of life at all. Left the bike for 8 days while on vacation, came home and turned the key - problem gone, has lighted up every single time I've turned the key since then. Cleaned battery terminals (clean to start with) battery negative to engine block, and every plug in I could get to.

When all looks well it just means there's an ambush!

JimLor said:

Brazos Parker sent me the link to this thread - thanks Mike! Since leaving the bike for a week (vacation) she lights up every time I turn the key. Rode 4.2 miles around the block the other day and no problem. Wiggle the wires and the key - no loss of power. Can't think of what else might be the problem so I'll take a try at Rob's fix.
To recap - bike stalled at light, started right up, gauges remained on. Parked at work, did it one more time, and then I stopped and parked, turned the key and nothing, no signs of life at all. Left the bike for 8 days while on vacation, came home and turned the key - problem gone, has lighted up every single time I've turned the key since then. Cleaned battery terminals (clean to start with) battery negative to engine block, and every plug in I could get to.

When all looks well it just means there's an ambush!

Click to expand...

Ah ha! Similar to me. Although I didn't lose power while riding. I'd turn the key and nothing would happen, wiggle the harness and bingo! Next few times it started up no problem, then without warning it would not work. Go figure, so that's why I took it apart.

Good luck

Zorlac said:

Brodie,
Do you think "industrial Vaseline" would be prone to having dirt stick to it and contaminate the contacts with grime over time?

It wouldn't have been my choice, unless the switch was hermetically sealed.

Click to expand...

Well, the switch is exposed to the elements, so you want to protect it from corrosion.

I don't know what "Industrial Vaseline" is so I can't recommend it. When I took my switch apart I cleaned it up and put a smear of silicon dielectric grease on the contacts and contact plate.



A little goes a long way. The switch is a self cleaning wiper design. If there is a good non corroded surface under the dielectric grease it should make contact. The problems we are having is when the contact plate gets a bit weathered it may get iffy. When the demands of high current is forced through an "iffy" contact it will get warm due to resistance. This is the start to the thermal runaway that killed so many ignition switches on our bikes. The Dielectric grease will help keep the corrosion from forming on these surfaces.

I know it can be a pain to do this kind of maintenance, but it will help keep your bike from getting old before it's time.

Brodie

"Industrial Vasoline" I'm not %100 sure it's not just Vasoline or Petroleum Jelly if you will but, we used it on the robots at work for some of the electrical conections so I guess it's safe to use.

fjrob1300 said:

"Industrial Vasoline" I'm not %100 sure it's not just Vasoline or Petroleum Jelly if you will but, we used it on the robots at work for some of the electrical conections so I guess it's safe to use.

Click to expand...

Your reminding me I need to clean out my ignition switch as well. I've never had a problem with the electrical side of it (other than it occasionally completely reseting my tripmeters on long trips). But every once in a while I can't get the damn triple tree unlocked. Just last week I had to **** around with it for about 20 minutes before it unlocked pretty as you please. Guess it wouldn't hurt to give it a good hosing with contact cleaner.

I'll do it today as I've got another day off and I need to finish up my cruise install. (WOOT! worked first try, but what a pain in the *** to install!)