source for switched power on Gen 2 for gps

[laminated]

Tried searching switched power but nothing on where a guy can get switched power for a gps power supply . so thought I'd quickly ask where , I have the box up in the area by the battery now..thanks.

 

[HotRodZilla]

What year do you have?? I can't see it from my phone. If you don't have heated grips, you can use that. I think others tap into the headlamp wires for a relay trigger for switched stuff.

 

[garywayne]

I just use the outlet in the glovebox. Ran the cord out the bottom and up to the GPS (fork stem mounted). Works great....

 

[mferriter]

I have mine spliced into the rear lights. The wires are way easier to get at than the headlight ones. Splicing into the accessory outlet in the glove compartment might not be too bad, but you still have to remove a piece of tupperware somewhere to get at the wires.

 

[jmgrif]

Many disable and use the auto retract for the windshield! I prefer that I manually operate the windshield but the connection in my Gen 2 was buried up under the nose and difficult to find? I did with help from Fred W..

 

[bgross]

Then there's the "if I add one thing, I might want to add another later" approach:

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

It won't take any longer to install than the methods mentioned (above) and you'll never have questions about which add-on goes where.

Everything properly fused & grounded.

Life is good.

 

[Burnspot]

Splicing into the accessory outlet in the glove compartment might not be too bad, but you still have to remove a piece of tupperware somewhere to get at the wires.

This is what I did and it works well...it's a bit tight up there. My relay is attached to the front face of the glovebox and feeds back to a homemade fuse block mounted to the rear face of the glovebox (all of this stuff is fed by 12 gauge wires coming from the battery and through the back of the dash). I also have the windshield auto retract available as a switched feed, but didn't use it in this case. I had initially done the GPS power through the bottom of the glovebox when I first got the bike, but eventually grew tired of the cigarette plug vibrating out. It's much better having it hardwired to a switched circuit and has worked flawlessly for a few years now. I power the GPS, Symtec heated grips, and, until one of them died, a pair of fork-mounted lights. One of these days, I'll go the Eastern Beaver route to clean things up.

 

[jmgrif]

Sorry, I should have said I added a Power Distribution Box using the auto retract power source! All my add ons are fused and powered from there.

Many disable and use the auto retract for the windshield! I prefer that I manually operate the windshield but the connection in my Gen 2 was buried up under the nose and difficult to find? I did with help from Fred W..

 

[Bounce]

Many disable and use the auto retract for the windshield! I prefer that I manually operate the windshield but the connection in my Gen 2 was buried up under the nose and difficult to find? I did with help from Fred W..

as documented here for Gen 1 & 2 models.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/shield/shield.html

i am loath to created splices (weaknesses) in the OEM harness. if not done right, you can end up with bugga boos some months/years later that are hard to track down after you forgot about that one "little thing" you did all that time ago.

with the power & ground distribution blocks documented here (based on earlier work by Warchild).

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

 

[extrememarine]

As mentioned, heated grip circuit, glove box 12v circuit, or auto retract circuit.

On my wrecked '09, I had a OE plug for the heated grip circuit that i ran to a barrier strip attached to the glove box. Powered the GPS, RD, Starcom from that.

As the new bike (another '09) gets ready to go under the farkle knife, I am thinking about this approach - glove box 12v outlet to power GPS, RD, and Starcom, heated grip circuit to power aux LED lights from Rigid Industries or advmonster. A separate fuse block in the tail fed by a relay will power heated lines x2, 12v outlet in Givi and underseat for air compressor (for when I ride with El Toro Joe....).

 

[Hudson]

If you are just hooking up the GPS, I would opt for unswitched (straight to the battery) lead. GPS draws such little power, the only risk is leaving it on overnight. You didn't mention whether your GPS had a battery or was reliant upon the m/c's battery (like my prior Garmin 2730).

Even if you add a fuseblock (like the excellent Eastern Beaver example) and your GPS has its own battery power, I'd still run GPS on the unswitched lead. It lets you avoid the annoying pop up and GPS auto shut off that happens when you switch off the m/c, and the GPS switches from m/c battery power to device battery.

I used a Posi-Tap to trigger the Fuseblock's switched outlets, tapping into the rear blue cable that triggers the running lights.

 

[escapefjrtist]

As others have said, keep it simple and use the heated grips, glove box or auto retract circuits for installation ease. Once you get to a point where a fuse block is needed, do the deed then. Plenty of power available for small wattage accessories.

--G

 

[AlleyCat]

My Garmin 3790 burns the fuse for the 12v in the glovebox. So I will be running a new power supply for the GPS. If you want a switched power supply, the easiest route would be to tap into the rear running lights as mentionned by others. I am still debating if I want a power distribution under the seat or I may even just go directly to the battery to go the unswitched route. When the bike is off, I remove the GPS, so no chance of forgetting it on.

This is the power distribution block I am considering for under the seat : https://www.motorcycleinnovations.ca/Rowe_PDM60_p/pdm60.htm

 

[rbentnail]

For my gps I went unswitched but in-line fused directly to the battery with a powerlet plug. This way the same power supply (plug) is available for the battery tender and air compressor without even minor plastics removal.

 

[hrtbts00]

If this is your first endeavor, I recommend putting in a fuse block for starters. Good ol' MCL (motorcycle Larry) has the FZ-1 and it is a pretty nice set up, all beit a bit pricey. If you are going to want to add further farkling, it is a really good place to start. I used the switched lead from the glove box and now I have six available sources for power, that are fused and can be switched or constantly hot. Fuse block is easily accessible under the seat for further projects. I also agree that a battery tender lead is an important lead to have.

 

[hrtbts00]

If this is your first endeavor, I recommend putting in a fuse block for starters. Good ol' MCL (motorcycle Larry) has the FZ-1 and it is a pretty nice set up, all beit a bit pricey. If you are going to want to add further farkling, it is a really good place to start. I used the switched lead from the glove box and now I have six available sources for power, that are fused and can be switched or constantly hot. Fuse block is easily accessible under the seat for further projects. I also agree that a battery tender lead is an important lead to have.