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Re fading, why not just powder coat them? I'd think you could easily pull the adjuster out and it'd be cheap enough..

Well, its that time of the year! Now thru August 31, 2016, (for the continental US), I'm offering Free shipping on TWO brackets or $4.00 shipping on ONE helmet lock bracket. Pay Pal is accepted. Please e-mail me at [email protected] and post in the header, FJR, the year and if an ES...

Plus one on the Accutire 4710. Reads down to a half lb, locks in the PSI. Very dependable even with the abuse in the garage getting bounced about.. https://www.accutiregauge.com/motorcycle-gauges/accutire-ms-4710b-motorcycle-tire-pressure-gauge/ Also, the original batteries lasted at least 5...

Just saw this thread, wow... As previously posted, glad you made it alive... Good luck and hang in there, you've obviously improved and will continue to... Scott

+ 1 ^^^^. I tried setting the initial vacuum # and it ain't gonna happen! And I am at sea level... Simply sync them to each other, the closer the better. I re-check at 4K and adjust accordingly.

Quote: "Could an incorrectly adjusted #1 cylinder lead to any issues with the TPS." ______________________________________________________________________________ An out of balance sync wouldn't affect the TPS. Plus 1 on the Carbtune as well. Just a side note, per your first post. Prior to...

The cover will also spin around once slightly loosened..

Makkat, re the Powerlet plug. The working part of the plug can be spun 180 degrees's (or whatever you need) to hide the wires. Just loosen the nut. There is a drain hole in the Powerlet (very small, barely visible) so try to keep that facing down..

Thanks for the plug ^^^!!! Helmet lock on each side for both helmets, then a cable thru one arm of your jacket also locked to the helmet lock. ES model, left side: . Right side: If you want ONE key for the locks (to match your ignition), purchase Yamaha part # 4R8-21308-01-00 . The off...

Your very welcome Dave, enjoy and ride safe!

A heat gun getting the tapered end of the flywheel if needed would help expand it and release it. . . Damn, still have the paperwork on the pullers. Shows for a KZ1300a 1982, (Motion Pro) its part #08-0116 M18 x 1.5 R.H. external thread... Here ya go...

My old KLR's used a puller for the flywheel that was simply a very fine thread, wide diameter, super hardened bolt. After the crankshaft bolt was removed, you simply threaded the bolt(puller) into the flywheel that was threaded inside and turned until it popped off. The puller bolt, was about...

Besides using a correct brake wrench, applying some heat (we're not worried about the old rubber lines) with a heat gun should help. Another set of hands to hold the block while working the line would be helpful too... You may want to put something behind / around the area your working in to...

Format must be FAT32. I have the manual as a PDF if anyone needs it.. PM me with an e-mail address...

Should you have to re-do the stator cover, Yamabond #4 (center case sealer) would work excellent for that (but would need a an oil FREE, super clean). Maybe some epoxy on the flywheel, especially where its loose?

I didn't have to extend my brake line (or any lines / cables) when I put 1.25" straight up risers on my 04. (see below) I may have re-clocked the banjo / bolt(so it was straighter), but the stock line fit...

My old 04 developed the same leak and was that internal o-ring. As posted, I pulled my foot peg assembly and narrowed it down to that seal... I didn't screw with it...

Wish it was a 750 triple two stroke!

Thanks for the link.

Keep running the RF in it. You'd be surprised how well it works. As posted in your other thread, run it at 2-3x' the recommended amount. It won't hurt anything (I do that on any machine with fuel issues). I also run the RF in my bike and EVERY gas engine machine I own. As posted...