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That is a torque range. It should have said, toque first nut from 20 to 40 lb in. Torque second nut (lock nut) snug to lock in place. Locktite is not required due to the rubber seal absorbing the shock/vibrations.

Normally the round portion of a sealing washer is for the sealing surface and is the part that compresses. So place that round portion towards the oil pan. Also remember to clean the mating surface BEFORE installing the drain bolt. We need to clean off any dirt or grit that may cause a leak...

check again. The mods are back at it.

150, that is light for the stock Springs. If the previous owner made the springs heavier, you are going to be jolted. Where do you live? I have factory Springs laying around here somewhere you can try.

I your bike is kept inside like mine, then never seems to work for me. I have never changed the stems and they never leak. I look them over for cracks, and they look great. Ymmv.

Tires aren't cheap, but worth it. I use the Michelin Pilot Super Sports on my C6, and those cost about $1,400 and last me 25,000 miles. WAY better then the stock Goodyear Eagle crap that break free in a turn without predictability. Many options for that car that are discussed on the...

Nope, once an FJR family member always an FJR family member. Now go buy an FJR. You know you want one.

I was in Seattle a few months ago and really enjoyed The Bloedel Reserve on Bainbridge Island https://www.bloedelreserve.org/ We took the ferry which was fun also (those ferries are huge). We also enjoyed the Boeing tour (I have been in aviation for 35 years!).

No cupping on the new T30 stones, but damn, they do not last that long. I have no problems with my front end, but would like to try a fork brace just to see if it does anything. Since I am properly sprung for my weight and have gold valves installed, not sure it would do much.

Nice. It is great to have someone as knowledgeable as yourself buy a new FJR that we can all benefit from for years to come. I just which my 07 wouldn't run and handle so good, or I would join you in buying new.

Not me. Not even surprised at the voluminous comments from the crowd that DON'T EVEN OWN an FJR. (Please gain some credibility and buy an FJR!)

Now you tell me. Good idea, as many of us prefer that option.

Those are Rivco pegs Mike, just like mine. https://www.amazon.com/Rivco-Products-Anti-Vibration-Highway-Pegs/dp/B005U80V6K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408720989&sr=8-2&keywords=rivco+highway+pegs

That was impressive. I want to see that done on my bike.

Kind of a silly question don't ya think?

Please video tape that as I think there would be hours of enjoyment gleaned from it.

Or a Hobo on a hotdog.

Side stand for me. Use some shaped aluminum foil to direct the flow off the plastic. Don't listen to these guys, they hate everything. Moving a post to NEPRT is a badge of honor.

I use emery cloth on the brake rotors (light sanding in the direction of wheel rotation) to remove any remaining glaze. Doesn't phase the rotors, but does remove the glaze. Just did this when I replaced my factory pads with EBC HH pads. Very happy with the initial bite now.

Time for a dumb question. I adjust valves on my dirtbikes all the time, requiring retracting the CCT, so that is why I ask the following: Why do we need to tywrap the cam chain to perform the CCT replacement? Is there that much slack in the chain that it will spin and skip a tooth on the cams...