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Have a look in your owners manual. The fuses are shown on page 7-33/34. The auxiliary DC jack is controlled by fuse number 12. Not sure if this link will work but here goes Owners manual 2012

This has been talked about before..... The problem is getting the grease through the needle bearing housing (outer) to where it is needed (the rollers). I would be interested to see how this has bee achieved........

Have a look here Just scroll down the page to 'Fork Springs & Kits' where they have a calculator.

Do you have a voltmeter? If yes then check for voltage at the socket.....

Looks like some sort of bike audio to me............

Something like this has always happened on mine (2009) after the bike hasn't been used for a coupe of days. It isn't so much an audible crack, more like a feeling that something stuck briefly and then let go. I have always put it down to the O ring in the slave cylinder sticking briefly, then...

I have tried but just never 'grasped' the physics that several contributors have outlined here. I really don't understand it and basically I am not interested. However, I have tried observing what happens when I am in a cornering situation: I initiate the lean and entry to the corner by...

The one bit of information you need is current from the RR. Ideally use a clip-on ammeter on the positive wire from the RR (at the RR). Repeat the test you carried out above and establish if the current remains about the same, with the fans running. If the current stays (about) the same but...

So....... just what is so special about the OEM overflow tank? As a temporary measure wouldn't any old bottle (that fits in the space) do the job?

Just because the clutch lever is pulled in does not mean that the clutch plates have been disengaged....... I guess the easiest way to check is to open the clutch cover and observe the operation.

When you bled the clutch line did you get any air bubbles out? It's beginning to sound like the clutch is not opening properly.

No, you guys ride on the right side, he is riding on the correct side.........

Probably not much help but......... The FJ Club used to do a kit to allow you to fit conventional handlebars to a gen1 FJR. Unfortunately it iOS no longer available form them but you might be able to work something out for yourself............

"is it common to run more than the 36 PSI in the front wheel? " Sounds low to me, perhaps Gen 3s are different but I normally run the front at 41/42 psi YMMV

If you are planning to do this job yourself then it makes perfect sense to replace ALL the bearings and seals, circlips are optional (it might make sense to order them at the same time and have them on hand, just in case). You have already saved yourself the big bucks by doing the work...

Useful guide here - just scroll down past the CCT guide.............

Have you looked at the clutch switch (on the handlebar, part of the clutch lever assy). Are the indications 'normal' on the gear position indicator? Always get a clear indication of neutral when it's in neutral?

I would suspect the engine thermostat. If it is not opening fully then you will not get enough coolant to flow through the radiator. The electrical bit appears to be working OK, display is responding to actual temperature and the fans are switching on. When you start the engine, try 'feeling'...

Just remember that the 'proper torque' needs to be reduced to account for the loss of friction, otherwise you risk stripping threads. Normally, recommended torque is for new, dry, bolts and assumes a significant part of the rotary torque will be used to overcome friction in the threads and...

No idea where you got that notion! I can't even claim to be smartly dressed.............