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My guess is that the Crank Position Sensor is not faulty, it is just doing it's job! This has been discussed recently and the conclusion was the CPS error is displayed when the engine is not operating as the ECU expects........ Your problem is much more likely to be fuel or ignition related YMMV

I thought I had a problem with my battery tender (optimate) and while trying to eliminate possibilities I carried a series of starts/shut downs (to drain the battery). The charger anomaly went away, but....... Next time I went to use the bike it 'coughed' once and then went into the fast...

OK it's retraction time. I have no idea where I got the idea that there is a pressure switch in the fuel pump. I 'feel' it was mentioned on the forum by someone who had worked on a pump but maybe I just dreamed it!...... The pump is just a dumb motor which runs/stops in response to a signal...

I agree it's not being monitored by the 'system' BUT it is controlled by a pressure switch in the pump assembly..........

Are you sure that you what you hear is a spinning starter motor? I would suspect a 'chattering' starter relay, most likely caused by a bad battery. When the relay closes it puts an instantaneous load on the battery, the battery voltage drops and the relay opens, the voltage rises until it is...

Not necessarily the sensor. It could be in the wiring or more likely a connector. Try using the diagnostic screen to 'view' the engine temperature sensor (on mine, 2009 it's diagnostic code d:06).

I'm sure someone sensible will be along shortly to give you some help. In the meantime I would have a good look around air breather cover - make sure you haven't disturbed (or disconnected) the air intake pressure sensor..........

"and open the bleeder” hasn’t worked I have solved the problem by pushing the air “up”, by pushing in a caliper piston or slave cylinder pushrod-AFTER flushing clean fluid through the entire system." My only comment here is be very careful doing this with an FJR ABS system! There are very tiny...

It will not leave you stranded IF you allow it to warm up properly before shutting it down............

Those two bearing will have to be pulled. It will definitely help to heat the relay arm and use an impact puller.

Borrow a pre 1970s British bike. After you have ridden it for a few weeks you won't notice the leaks that have you concerned..............

Not sure how cold it is where you are but........ Low temps will not help when trying to get rid of air in a hydraulic system. The fluid will become more viscous and will not allow bubbles to migrate freely. When using your Mity Vac the fluid flow will tend to stay in laminar flow when...

Completely agree with the previous post plus.......... Make sure your idle speed is about 1100 RPM (with a warm engine).

This takes you right back to where you started! It can be really tricky to get rid of all the air in a brake system after you have opened up any fittings. I assume you can't see any trace of brake fluid (leaking) when carrying out the ABS checks? If the front brake system is not holding...

Some men learn by watching, Some men learn by listening, Most men have to piss on the electric fence for themselves.............

I get it but usually when the exhaust pipes are wet/damp.......

The general consensus is that the 'spiders' need some form of protection to prevent corrosion. There is no consensus on what is best........ My preference is ACF-50 YMMV..........

So, the important thing now is 'how is it running'?

All you need to know is the type of service (Nitrile, Viton, Silicone, EPDM) based on fluids (oil, water etc) and temperature. Useful guide here for O ring material selection. Then you just plug in cross-section and Inside Diameter. I use Simply Bearings in the UK but I am sure there are...

And WTF is wrong with that? I do ~12,000 miles per year and I will not be seeing 70 again (in this life)!...............