03 29k. Loud ticking during deceleration

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Totally different track, if you are only hearing the noise under deceleration there is a chance that you have a problem with the Air Injection System. In a bit of backward logic, if the relay to the AIS pump is DISCONNECTED it will be enabled all the time causing your symptoms. When properly working, the AIS should only be enabled before the radiator thermostat opens and then again only when at idle. If the AIS is enabled erroneously you could indeed hear this noise. During deceleration the AIS injects air into the exhaust ports to allow a secondary burn of hydrocarbons which produces a distinct and noticeable noise in the exhaust.

 
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Totally different track, if you are only hearing the noise under deceleration there is a chance that you have a problem with the Air Injection System. In a bit of backward logic, if the relay to the AIS pump is DISCONNECTED it will be enabled all the time causing your symptoms. When properly working, the AIS should only be enabled before the radiator thermostat opens and then again only when at idle. If the AIS is enabled erroneously you could indeed hear this noise. During deceleration the AIS injects air into the exhaust ports to allow a secondary burn of hydrocarbons which produces a distinct and noticeable noise in the exhaust.



Emission BS?

THe sound is not longer there. After hearing it for sometime and letting others listen, I'm almost positive it was the CTT. I may not have described it correctly at the time.

Is it common for the CCT issue to come and go?

I took a look at the procedure again and think my stout fingers could make it work.

 
Is it common for the CCT issue to come and go?
In the "early" stages of weakness, the answer is a definite YES. A weak/failing CCT will cause the attendant cam chain noise to come and go...up to the point where your valve train says bye-bye.

BTW, $257 to R&R a CCT, not including parts, is too much.

 
I replaced the CCT this past month myself just for preventative maintenance on my bike with the new model.

It took about 25 minutes. Get a ratcheting 10mm wrench and a long very thin screw driver to wind up the CCT. NOTE: don't remove the little metal tab installed in the new CCT and discard it in yesterday's garbage, as that keeps it wound up and easier to install. Pull it out after installing it and it will then unwind and push against your chain.

- Remove right side fairing (2-3 minutes?)

- Remove crank cover and zip tie the cam chain so it doesn't slack down when you remove the old CCT. And no, oil does not come out. (3-4 minutes)

- Remove the two CCT bolts, CCT slides right out. (10 minutes maybe as room is tight and takes a while to turn them)

- Slide new CCT into hole, install new bolts and gasket. (5 min)

- Remove zip tie and put cover back on (7 or 8 allen bolts) 2 minutes

- Have fun putting right side fairing back on without scratching your paint up top while trying to get that damn plastic flap around your radiator overflow tank. If you've done this solo enough time you'll understand what I'm talking about. Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it fights you. And sometimes the metal fairing bolt clips scratch your upper fairing while dicking with it all! :angry:

4-15 minutes lol depending on the fairing's attitude.

DONE. Seriously - it was 25 minutes start to finish. The part was like $70 at ronayers.com

 
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