Where is the 30 amp ABS motor fuse located? It's location is not shown in the owner's manual. From the electrical schematic it appears to be near the main fuse and battery.
'04 '05 ABS Motor Fuse
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Panman
Well-known member
I can only say for a Gen II, and it is on the starter relay. On the Gen II it has two one on each end of the relay one is a spare.
ionbeam
2 FUN
Bottom front of Battery Box:
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I downloaded the '04 and '05 Owner's Manuals from the Yamaha site. The 30 amp fuse location is not shown in either manual. The ABS system has two fuses -- a 7.5 amp control unit fuse (located at the fuse box) and a 30 amp motor fuse (location unknown).
From the schematic the 30 amp fuse appears to be close to the battery and main fuse.
Thanks, ionbeam.
From the schematic the 30 amp fuse appears to be close to the battery and main fuse.
Thanks, ionbeam.
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daviddowns2000
Well-known member
Sorry to revive an old thread but search hasn't answered my question about the ABS motor fuse. On my '05 there is only one visible 30A fuse in front of the battery. Is this one a spare? Is there another 30A fuse, possibly the operative fuse for the ABS motor, enclosed in the white plastic case next to the visible fuse, or is the visible 30A fuse the operative ABS motor fuse and there is no spare? It is awkward for me to get at this area and I don't want to try to pull a cover off the white plastic case if is something other than a cover for the operative ABS motor fuse.
My rear ABS isn't activating despite the ABS warning light coming on for 2 sec upon startup as normal, as well as flashing when the bike is run in gear on the centerstand. I'm about to connect up the jumper to do more detailed troubleshooting, but wanted to check the ABS motor fuse first. The visible one shows continuity, but that would be expected if it is only a spare
.
EDIT: OK, I figured out that the white plastic is the cover for the operative ABS motor fuse. It shows continuity. Now on to the jumper.
My rear ABS isn't activating despite the ABS warning light coming on for 2 sec upon startup as normal, as well as flashing when the bike is run in gear on the centerstand. I'm about to connect up the jumper to do more detailed troubleshooting, but wanted to check the ABS motor fuse first. The visible one shows continuity, but that would be expected if it is only a spare
.EDIT: OK, I figured out that the white plastic is the cover for the operative ABS motor fuse. It shows continuity. Now on to the jumper.
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SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
I would have guessed the white plastic cover held the 'spare' fuse. Ooops.
Make sure to keep us updated on this, I am having a similar problem that I haven't had time to diagnose yet.
And I am sure you know that if your rear ABS is not activating, than neither is your front. So ride accordingly.
Make sure to keep us updated on this, I am having a similar problem that I haven't had time to diagnose yet.
And I am sure you know that if your rear ABS is not activating, than neither is your front. So ride accordingly.
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daviddowns2000
Well-known member
Have you tried operating the ABS pump via the diag screens?
Clicky to thread with the "How To"
It could be that your ABS sensors and electrics are all A-OK but the pump is frozen.
Clicky to thread with the "How To"
It could be that your ABS sensors and electrics are all A-OK but the pump is frozen.
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SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
I haven't had time to diagnose yet, but a frozen pump is what I am afraid of. That is a REALLY pricey part. And if it is the problem will make my FJR a non-abs model as I won't shell out the bucks for a replacement.
Ya know...........
Back in 03 I was struggling with whether to order the ABS or non-ABS version of the FJR. Decision to order the non-abs version was in large part made from the advice of a friend who owned an old FJ1200 and said as the bikes aged, and parts stated failing, it was really expensive to fix. He said a lot of the FJ owners would just rip the ABS system out. With several reports all of sudden, perhaps at the 8 year mark we are starting to see what my friend described.
For me, ABS would have saved me from myself on my first wreck when I locked up the rear and high-sided. It's only been ABS models since then. I wonder if that was a good decision.
I also wonder how many ABS models out there also don't have the abs working and the owners don't know it. That is now three 04 models with non-functioning abs with no indicator light showing a problem. How many more out there not working and the owners don't know it?
Check that ABS operation on a regular basis peeps!
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daviddowns2000
Well-known member
I tried method 1 and 2 according to the manual (did not try to turn wheel as in Ionbeam's instructions in the link above). Front and rear brakes pulsated using method 1. Using method 2, the front lever returned to the resting position and pulsated. However, the rear pedal pulsed but showed weak or no upward force. I'll try having someone rotate the wheel while doing Ionbeam's method 1 just to see what happens. BTW, ScooterG, mine is an '05.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
You sound good to go as far as the pump. As I understand it, if your pump was frozen, there would be *NO* pulsing whatsoever.
daviddowns2000
Well-known member
I guess that is good so far, except it still doesn't work on the street. Not sure what to do next, anyone have any ideas?
To clarify what you mean by "doesn't work", are you saying that when you stomp on the rear brake pedal that the rear wheel locks up and there is no ABS action (pumping / vibration in the pedal)? Or are you just not getting pulsation but the wheel is not locking up either?
daviddowns2000
Well-known member
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
If the rear locks, the front will too. ABS system compares speed between both wheels to work correctly. As a fairly safe test, get on some gravel and quickly and momentarily stab your front brake lever. The front will lock up momentarily. Just do it really quickly and you won't be in any danger of going down.
ionbeam
2 FUN
Only in a secondary function. The primary attribute the ABS looks for is the Slip Ratio/Slip Angle which is the measure of the wheel speed vs chassis speed. When the difference becomes more than 15% the ABS will become activated to keep the Slip Ratio from becoming any greater. The 15% represents the very beginning or immediately impending skid.
Hook up the test jumper, put a needle type volt meter across the other two terminals and look for error codes!
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SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Thanks for the clarification. I always learn something from you. So...... how does the system determine 'chassis speed'? And was I wrong in that the front abs *could* work if the rear is not?
And why a needle type voltmeter? I don't have one of those.
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I'd guess that the ABS computer calculates the chassis speed from the only two possible speed inputs that it gets. So, if the front wheel is going faster than the rear, that's chassis speed. If the rear wheel is going faster than the rear, that's chassis speed. There is also an ECU chassis speed signal, but that is entirely based off the drive shaft (and so directly coupled to the rear wheel ) and so is redundant.
edit - also yes, it is possible that the front ABS could work while the rear does not. I would not advise testing the front ABS if there is any question that it will or will not work. Just not worth the risk of dumping it. These fat pigs will go down fast with a locked front wheel. Even in gravel.
It just makes it easier to visualize the ones and zeros. Deflect right = 1. Deflect left = 0
You could quite easily do it with some sort of a flashing light, or better yet, watching the little bar graph on the bottom of your DVM.
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daviddowns2000
Well-known member
It's an interesting
analog-to-digital conversion. It is funny that they programmed things that way when there is a very nice digital display and software that already captures error codes. How hard would it have been to capture, store, and display the other error codes without the user having to manually time and count deflections of an analog needle? Anyway, I'm off to Radio Shack to buy an analog 12+V meter. My DVM doesn't have a bar graph.ps...there was no way I was going to go out and test the front ABS on a gravel road!
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