05 FJR1300 GEN 1 NA Model - Horn working intermediately

[grumpypoo]

Hi,

So i've noticed a fun new issues that I can't seem to fix.

Back story..

Going down the highway around 80 MPH notice a truck up ahead casually increase to 90 MPH to get past quickly. Truck decides this is a great time to get into my lane for no reason (nobody infront of him). Prepare my thumb for the almighty blast of the horn. *crickets* REV THE CRAP OUT OF THE ENGINE. Truck moves back over. I shake my head and move on.

I thought for sure the horn was dead. Got to work looked for new horns all day. Before I bought one decided to give it one finally test. Horn scares the crap out of me (not expecting it to work).

Hrmm I thought? I attributed it to not working because maybe I didn't actually hit the switch?

Same day before I leave test once more (works just fine now). Get to the red light right outside my job. Light turns green. Kid infront of me to busy on facebook. PREPARE THE THUMB FOR THE ALMIGHTY BLAST! *crickets*. Wtf? Rev the engine. I keep trying throughout the ride only to have it work at another red light up ahead and look like an ***.

Get home turn off the bike and start taking everything apart.

1. Everything is ok (It's a 11 year old bike doesn't look brand new)

2. Switch housing is dusty at best on the inside (I gracefully use my air cleaner and clean that switch REAL GOOD)

3. Fuses are fine.

I can't actually get a solid test going because the horn decides when it wants to work. Sometimes it will (when I don't care if it does). Sometimes it wont (when the thumb is begging for the almighty blast).

Any thoughts? My thumb sure is missing being able to blast my almighty horn.

Other details..

Bought used 2 months ago.

Appears previous owner layed the bike down (Had frame sliders so nothing to badly damaged)

44k miles

Other than the horn and the few minor things I had to fix it's a solid bike and i'm very pleased, but not having a horn at times (like inspection time) is very bad.

 

[mcatrophy]

Rig a light up connected in parallel with the horn so it's visible when you're riding. When you get *crickets*, you can see if it's the horn or the feed that's being inconvenient.

But my guess is that it's the switch.

 

[NTXFJR]

Sounds like it might be the horn(s) themselves. I've had units go bad and work intermittently like that. You could always go back in with a Stebel unit if you want loud.....

 

[grumpypoo]

Rig a light up connected in parallel with the horn so it's visible when you're riding. When you get *crickets*, you can see if it's the horn or the feed that's being inconvenient.
But my guess is that it's the switch.

This is a good idea I shall do this. It's an every day problem so shouldn't be too long before I discover the issue.

Sounds like it might be the horn(s) themselves. I've had units go bad and work intermittently like that. You could always go back in with a Stebel unit if you want loud.....

Is there anyway to get a solid test on the horn to determine if it's bad or going bad other than no honk?

 

[Fred W]

The horn is wired with +12V on the brown wire at all times when the ignition switch is on. This is handy to know because it is a neat (and easy) place to grab a 12V switched signal for all kinds of Farkling. The horn switch gives the horn the ground on the pink wire. Ain't nothin' else to it.

So, it's either a bum (dirty) horn switch, a bad ground to the switch, or a bad supply to the horn.

I'd be most suspicious of that switch that sits out there on the handlebar for the past 11 years in all kinds of weather, that maybe it's gotten a bit crusty. But that's just me.

 

[Uncle Hud]

My guess is that the connections at the horn itself are loose/dirty/sketchy. My low-speed get-off produced similar symptoms, and it turned out the low-side horn (I have aftermarket twins). It was submerged long enough to get water on the connections, which corroded almost immediately. It affected both horns, since I wired one directly from the other.

Not sure about the Gen1 horn location, but I could check and fix mine without removing any plastics.

 

[grumpypoo]

You know i've been suspicious of the switch itself.

I'm going to go home tonight and take it apart and give the connections a good scrub. I will post back results.

My guess is that the connections at the horn itself are loose/dirty/sketchy. My low-speed get-off produced similar symptoms, and it turned out the low-side horn (I have aftermarket twins). It was submerged long enough to get water on the connections, which corroded almost immediately. It affected both horns, since I wired one directly from the other.
Not sure about the Gen1 horn location, but I could check and fix mine without removing any plastics.

I can get to the hot wire of the horn but the other one is a little outside of reach (Maybe i'm to fat?)

As far as I can tell it's the OEM horn. I will say the previous owner butchered a custom wiring job for heated grips (i'm assuming that's what it was for?)

I had to change my battery one day and found a god awful contraption rigged up beside the battery. Hot wires just twisted together (Not even taped

)

I'm not sure what all the previous owner did and the dealership I got it at was unsure as well. They told me to go ahead and allow them to do a valve check (I will do this myself those wonderful mechanics in the back didn't even tighten the oil drain plug down (fell out while riding).

I'm almost half tempted to take the whole thing apart clean the engine and engine bay and kind of start over with it, but my bike is the main mode of transportation and I can't be down and out except for the weekend :/

I did however perform a TBS last night and only cylinder 1 & 4 were out 2 & 3 were spot on (I used the TS-111 to do it). So maybe the bike isn't in as bad of shape as it may seem?

Completely side question however...

I get around 34 MPG (winter gas). I cruise between 80-90 on the highway and do 10 above posted speed limit on city streets (Generally 50 MPH in the city).

Very spirited riding. I shift at 3K unless i'm taking off from a light then I do 4K in 1st & 2nd to 40 MPH and quickly shift into 5th. If i'm at 40 MPH + i'm in 5th gear at all times.

Normal gas mileage? I've seen people report 50 MPG and I can never quite get that (Keep in mind i'm 22 years old so I have a strong right hand).

 

[Harald]

Once you pull and clean the connections at each horn, I'd suggest gooping dielectric grease in and on the connector before plugging it back in again. This will seal the connection from water intrusion. Trust me - I ride in the rain constantly here in Seattle and the horns continue to work. Oh yea, I have a Stebel Nautilus horn IN ADDITION to a set of PIAA slimline horns. I love having the opportunity to honk all those together! :evil:

I get the same mileage on my '07 with winter gas and the large Vstream shield installed. I ride much like you, except I never shift that low and often approach redline before shifting. Does your bike perhaps have a Power Commander installed? I have one on mine to clean up the herky jerky OEM fuel map, but the cost is lower fuel mileage. I should note that I got almost 50 mpg once and that was when I was riding with my "new rider" wife on her Honda Shadow and a group of pirates. We were beat off the line by blue haired grandmas and EVERYONE was passing us on the freeway during our ride to the coast. Great mileage yes, but the fun factor for me was in the pits! If I had to ride like that all the time, I'd give up riding!

 

[grumpypoo]

Once you pull and clean the connections at each horn, I'd suggest gooping dielectric grease in and on the connector before plugging it back in again. This will seal the connection from water intrusion. Trust me - I ride in the rain constantly here in Seattle and the horns continue to work. Oh yea, I have a Stebel Nautilus horn IN ADDITION to a set of PIAA slimline horns. I love having the opportunity to honk all those together!

I get the same mileage on my '07 with winter gas and the large Vstream shield installed. I ride much like you, except I never shift that low and often approach redline before shifting. Does your bike perhaps have a Power Commander installed? I have one on mine to clean up the herky jerky OEM fuel map, but the cost is lower fuel mileage. I should note that I got almost 50 mpg once and that was when I was riding with my "new rider" wife on her Honda Shadow and a group of pirates. We were beat off the line by blue haired grandmas and EVERYONE was passing us on the freeway during our ride to the coast. Great mileage yes, but the fun factor for me was in the pits! If I had to ride like that all the time, I'd give up riding!

I do not have a PC installed.

Everything is bone stock from what I can tell. New Air filter + Spark plugs (Maybe 2k on them?)

Oh my I couldn't even imagine riding that slow. I bet I would get around the same gas mileage if I baby the tank, but that's impossible to do.

 

[wfooshee]

The horns themselves can go bad internally. I replaced a set that made a clicky-rattly kind of sound, and when I pulled them off and tossed them on the ground they poured out a bunch of sand a small gravel! Emptying them out didn't help, they were still busted-***, or maybe a little water and mud mixed in had turned to something like concrete inside.

 

[odot]

Yer out of horn fluid. The cap is the forward left blinker lens.

 

[Hotboot]

My '05 is doing the same thing, dual blasters through a relay. I suspect the actual horn button contacts because its fuzzy at times depending on panic. I will be researching the OEM replacement if available.

We must have the horn option in D/FW traffic !

 

[Geezer]

The horns are probably the weak link, but it's hard to believe that both OEM horns fail at exactly the same time.

 

[Fred W]

+1 - Two horns, but only one horn switch. If both horns fail at the same time clean the switch.

If you wanted to get fancy and actually do some troubleshootng, you could hook a volt meter up to the pink wire on one of the horns. That is the side that is supposed to get grounded by the horn switch.

You should nominally see 12V (comes in on the brown wire and through the horn).

When you press the horn button that should drop down to 0V (or thereabouts).

If the voltage doesn't drop down when you *** the horn button the problem is the switch (or wiring going back thru the switch to ground)

If the voltage does drop down and you get no beep, then both of the horns are FUBAR.

 

[odot]

Head lights fail at the same time, don't they?

 

[grumpypoo]

I have cleaned the switch.

Horns still being stupid

 

[Hotboot]

I had a total horn failure yesterday, almost squished by a truck. Ordered a pair of Wolo's and a new relay to replace the Stebels. Service history says they are 5 years old, I forgot how old they are and will start from the front back to the switch.

It looks like the switch assy. is $130.00 from Parts Shark, no idea if it's still available.

 

[grumpypoo]

I had a total horn failure yesterday, almost squished by a truck. Ordered a pair of Wolo's and a new relay to replace the Stebels. Service history says they are 5 years old, I forgot how old they are and will start from the front back to the switch.
It looks like the switch assy. is $130.00 from Parts Shark, no idea if it's still available.

I'm reluctant to order a new switch.

I have to tear down the bike again this weekend (Coolant flush!)

So I will pull the fairings off and rewire that crap just to see. I will post back results.

If this does not work i'm going to call it a total horn failure and buy a new one.

 

[Hotboot]

I am starting cheap first but my hide is worth a switch and new horns. The wolo's are thrifty.https://www.amazon.com/Wolo-320-2T-Maxi-Sound-Universal/dp/B00029XGQ4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454950338&sr=8-3&keywords=wolo+horn