05 fork seal replacement

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GA CYCLE RIDER

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duluth (peachtree corners) georgia
Anyone changed out a fork seal. Blew one out on a Cherohala Skyway ride several weeks ago.

I originally contacted my dealer in Lawrenceville Ga. to ask about repair under remaining yes warranty. Of course they said it was covered so bring it in.

Well after a two week stay at the shop waiting on oil and dust seals, I receive the call. They state that they were wrong about the coverage and Yamaha considers it a wear item and they would not spring for it.

I picked it up and will repair it myself.

however I am looking for a little advise. Can the seal easily be pulled out from the top without seperating the leg and tube or is a complete tear down required.

Strange enough that I did a seal replacement on my KLR650 last week. This was simple because I was able to pressure up the tube by putting an air hose on the schrader valve built into the cap on that bike and blow the seal up and out.

obviously the FJR does not have that method available.

Any ideas.

Thanks.

 
Uhhh.... I'm no m/c mechanic but each time my fork seals have been replaced (by a local shop) I've been looking over the shoulder of my mechanic. A total tear down is required to do a complete job. There are not just seals, but also a bushing that needs to be inspected for signs of wear. Do you have a maintenance manual? According to the manual you'll need a special tool, too. (YM-01442)

 
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After a cursory review of my service manual, I suggest you take a quick look at the procedure for changing fork seals (begins on page 4-60) before you dive in. Lots of good info.

Good luck.

 
If you just want to change a seal, remove the cap and spring, take the fork off the bike, extend the fork, fill with oil,install cap, remove any keeper holding the seal in, and jack the fork to pressure it, seal should coome out easy. use lots of rags around seal area.
 
I have the full shop manual and have had the forks off several times. One time to do a sring upgrade and then again for a flush.

I will attempt the suggestion to fill it up and produce enough load to pop it up.

thanks for the idea. It should be no different in theory as airing up the klr fork to blow it.

Have a feeling its going to be a little messy.

For what it is worth, Ron Ayers is shipping me the dust seals at 6.00 each and the oil seals at 5.50 each plus 9.00 shipping for a total of 32 bucks.

beats the 250.00 to 300.00 the shop wanted to do it.

Anyone else with experience on the repair please chime in.

Thanks

 
I dunno I figure once the fork is off the worst part of the jobs done.. Replaced my seals and springs last year, though it wasn't fun, it wasn't all that bad.

Just carefully pry the old seals out and replace em'. Heck with all the mess the oils going to make.....

Besides how are you going to be able to get a reasonably accurate measure of just how much fork oil to reinstall??

There ya fukers... I'm bein' helpful again :blum:

:jester:

 
I have the full shop manual and have had the forks off several times. One time to do a sring upgrade and then again for a flush.
I will attempt the suggestion to fill it up and produce enough load to pop it up.

thanks for the idea. It should be no different in theory as airing up the klr fork to blow it.

Have a feeling its going to be a little messy.

For what it is worth, Ron Ayers is shipping me the dust seals at 6.00 each and the oil seals at 5.50 each plus 9.00 shipping for a total of 32 bucks.

beats the 250.00 to 300.00 the shop wanted to do it.

Anyone else with experience on the repair please chime in.

Thanks
I just have a hard time with this approach. I question if you'll be doing yourself any favors in the long run by replacing the seal in this manner. Don't you need to check the bushings inside for wear? Shouldn't the oil get changed out completely (via full disassembly)? Just things to consider. I'd hate for you to go to this trouble only to have more problems in the future. I still think taking them apart completely is the best way to go. And even if it does cost you $300 bucks...that seems like a fairly small investment in your $13K motorcycle.

 
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after the seals are replaced I will do a flush out or two on them by filling with fork oil and pumping out/draining. After it is all buttoned up, the proper level will be set and my fingers will be crossed.

Hoping for a no additional issue service proceedure.

 
This the fastest way to do it. Biggest challenge is finding a good sturdy arrangement to jack the fork leg against. I used my floor standing drill press and jacked the fork leg between the base and the adjustable drill table. Removed the dust seal and the circlip. Filled the leg with atf and put the cap back on. Placed a deep well socket over the top of the fork leg adjuster and used a small bottle jack on the bottom. Added a little pressure with the jack, and heated the seal area with a Harbor Freight heat gun slightly. Added a little more pressure and you could see the seal moving out ever so slowly. Wrapped a towel around the seal just as it was about to pop out. Very easy. Unless you are convinced the bushings need to be replaced, this is the way to go.

 
This procedure works great. I used a shop press at my friends garage to compress it after filling it with oil and the seal popped right out. I just wanted to change the seals for now and this method saved a lot of money. When/if they start leaking again, I'll do a complete overhaul. Thanks for the idea!

 
This procedure works great. I used a shop press at my friends garage to compress it after filling it with oil and the seal popped right out. I just wanted to change the seals for now and this method saved a lot of money. When/if they start leaking again, I'll do a complete overhaul. Thanks for the idea!

How many miles on your FJR? At higher miles you really want to replace those bushings.

 
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