06 bar adjustments

[snap1945]

I took my 06 in for its 600 miler and wanted the handlebar moved to the forward position. This was because of a suggestion I gleemed off the forum here for wrist relief. The idea being the swept back position puts the wrists at a bad angel. The mechanic said if he moved them forward they would hit the fork adjustment and if he moved them back they would hit the tank and limit turns. My Yamachuckle book says: have the dealer do it.. any comments? (I am 5' 7" and on tip toe at stops just for the record)

 

[chickey191]

I took my 06 in for its 600 miler and wanted the handlebar moved to the forward position. This was because of a suggestion I gleemed off the forum here for wrist relief. The idea being the swept back position puts the wrists at a bad angel. The mechanic said if he moved them forward they would hit the fork adjustment and if he moved them back they would hit the tank and limit turns. My Yamachuckle book says: have the dealer do it.. any comments? (I am 5' 7" and on tip toe at stops just for the record)

I'd start by explaining that the engineers determined how far you can adjust the bars and that someone you know (me) has them in the far rear and they don't hit anything - and they were adjusted from the far forward, where they didn't hit anything, either.

If he can't figure out how to do it - I would suggest finding another dealer before he breaks something.

 

[jjsC6]

Yes, tell you dealer to RTFM.

It's in the the service manual how to do it, and it takes all of about three minutes to do it. D&H happily moved mine for me when I took delivery of it.

 

[Groo]

Ok, here's a wild and crazy thought.... do it yourself. :huh:

 

[bramfrank]

I thought Kawasaki dealers sucked. The problem seems endemic. Get a manual and some tools and do your own service. You will do a better job than they will because they aren't commited to your machine and you will take the time to research the work and to do it right.

My dealer 'forgot' to change the rear drive oil and to sync the throttle bodies at my 600 mile service . . . what DID they do? They changed the engine oil and they supposedly tightened the steering bearings (but seem to have used something large and heavy to torque the 36 mm bolt down again, because it WON'T come off - I bent the ratchet trying).

All dealers seem to suck.

 

[v65]

This is what you want:

clicky

make sure to loosen both bars at the same time.

(but seem to have used something large and heavy to torque the 36 mm bolt down again, because it WON'T come off - I bent the ratchet trying)

Looks little johnny the mechanic has discovered the miracle of the 3/4" impact :blink: How about a review of your dealer for the dealer feedback forum? Bye the way, are the screws on your saddlebags loctited?

clicky

 

[jimbemotumbo]

This post reminds me that on the rare occasion when I bodge a maintenance job, it could have been worse had I gone to the dealer. :glare:

 

[temp357]

This post reminds me that on the rare occasion when I bodge a maintenance job, it could have been worse had I gone to the dealer. :glare:

I realized that the time i was riding away from the service shop and the brake bolts started coming out of the front calipers. :blink:

Other than valve adjustments and maybe a TBS, i'll stick to doing the maintenance myself

...and maybe a nice ride up to sonora to have ian help me put in the cruise control since its so easy

 

[Scab]

+1 on 'do it myself'. I can break stuff. For free.

 

[sleddoc]

I took my 06 in for its 600 miler and wanted the handlebar moved to the forward position. This was because of a suggestion I gleemed off the forum here for wrist relief. The idea being the swept back position puts the wrists at a bad angel. The mechanic said if he moved them forward they would hit the fork adjustment and if he moved them back they would hit the tank and limit turns. My Yamachuckle book says: have the dealer do it.. any comments? (I am 5' 7" and on tip toe at stops just for the record)

Your dealer is full of sh#t. :bad: The bars have locating pins on the bottom and move to three positions. From the factory mine was in the middle position, I moved them to the rear ( closer to the tank ) the bars at full turn are no closer than they were in the middle positon, keep in mind I did not measure them but they dont look any closer. When adjusting them lay a large towel on the tank and remove both sides completely, there is a plate with the studs in it and it's common to both sides under the steering head assy- slide the plate and drop the handle bar on the desired pin location and tighten the nut and bolt - the torque specs are listed in another thread in this technical discussion or if you dont want to do it try another dealer and get it set up the way you want it.

 

[skyway]

This post reminds me that on the rare occasion when I bodge a maintenance job, it could have been worse had I gone to the dealer. :glare:

I realized that the time i was riding away from the service shop and the brake bolts started coming out of the front calipers. :blink:

Other than valve adjustments and maybe a TBS, i'll stick to doing the maintenance myself

...and maybe a nice ride up to sonora to have ian help me put in the cruise control since its so easy

I never said it was easy, but it could become a challenge to get it working. Come on up, you should see me in action with bolt cutters and a gas cutting torch working under the gas tank. :dribble:

Now the TBS, thats EASY.

 

[pf-flyer]

I took my 06 in for its 600 miler and wanted the handlebar moved to the forward position. This was because of a suggestion I gleemed off the forum here for wrist relief. The idea being the swept back position puts the wrists at a bad angel. The mechanic said if he moved them forward they would hit the fork adjustment and if he moved them back they would hit the tank and limit turns. My Yamachuckle book says: have the dealer do it.. any comments? (I am 5' 7" and on tip toe at stops just for the record)

Your dealer is full of sh#t. :bad: The bars have locating pins on the bottom and move to three positions. From the factory mine was in the middle position, I moved them to the rear ( closer to the tank ) the bars at full turn are no closer than they were in the middle positon, keep in mind I did not measure them but they dont look any closer. When adjusting them lay a large towel on the tank and remove both sides completely, there is a plate with the studs in it and it's common to both sides under the stearing head assy- slide the plate and drop the handle bar on the desired pin location and tighten the nut and bolt - the torque specs are listed in another thread in this technical discussion or if you dont want to do it try another dealer and get it set up the way you want it.

If you try to do one side at a time the bars will hit the compression adjustment. Loosen both sides (both allen and 17mm) and adjustments will work. Are sevice departments overworked or underbrained?

 

[temp357]

I never said it was easy, but it could become a challenge to get it working. Come on up, you should see me in action with bolt cutters and a gas cutting torch working under the gas tank. :dribble:
Now the TBS, thats EASY.

LOL,

Maybe i'll just drop to say hello then. My bike, she's allergic to bolt cutters and blow torches

 

[kaitsdad]

Ya know, I have problems changing light bulbs. (It's that "lefty loosey, righty-tighty" thing). And I was able to move my handlebars.

Yes, I struggled with it - it took me all of 7 minutes to do. :dribble:

You need to tell your dealer to pound sand. :angry:

 

[TWILKIN650]

Don't know if this is the dealer I'd turn loose to adjust your valves.......