'06 buzz through the bars

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C'mon, be a little sympathetic.
If the buzzing in his feet and hands is that bad, imagine what the squealing in his head must be like.

Sorry, scruiser...couldn't resist. You ARE starting to sound a little Shrillary.

Click [SIZE=12pt]HERE to hear starcruiser[/SIZE]
That's exactly what I sound like riding THE BUZZBOMB!!! My bike must be bugged!!!! You work for the Dept of Homeland Security?

 
C'mon, be a little sympathetic.

If the buzzing in his feet and hands is that bad, imagine what the squealing in his head must be like.

Sorry, scruiser...couldn't resist. You ARE starting to sound a little Shrillary.

Click [SIZE=12pt]HERE to hear starcruiser[/SIZE]
That's exactly what I sound like riding THE BUZZBOMB!!! My bike must be bugged!!!! You work for the Dept of Homeland Security?
Thank God...you can take a little friendly ribbing, unlike some of the other humorless proles lurking around here.

 
It's not the buzz in my hands or the blurr in my mirrors that really get's me with the 4-5k RPM thing - it's the itching of my nose - makes me flip my shield over and over scratching my nose with my gloves!

BTW:

Put the bike on the dyno today to check WOT, idle and part-throttle cruse AFs. Made 116hp+ with stock exhaust, filters, fresh oil change and a PC3. My old "smoothness" map needed a little fixing at idle (little fatter), WOT (45-6500 little fatter) and cruise (leaner by a bunch). Overall it was good.

 
I put a Crampbuster on and found it helps to prevent my right hand from falling asleep. Just went on a 125 mile ride and the improvement surprised me.

 
I had a slight buzz but nothing that would cause numbing. But I put on a set of Motovation bar ends anyway to see if it would reduce the buzz. Maybe it's just me but it seems now that the buzz is more noticable. I'm going to put the stock ends back on for a bit to confirm. :unsure:

 
My bike, approaching 3k miles, is really getting smooth. Keep riding....

 
I thought I'd post an update on my 06 with respect to vibration.

During the initial 600 mile break in, I thought it was kinda (buzzy), especially around 3500/4000 or so that you'd normally cruise at on the highway. (No I didn't do much cruising during break in).

Compared to the previous Inline-4 it was significantly more buzzy IMHO, though the harmonics on that bike, and buzziness come in at a different RPM Range.

Now, keeping things in perspective, I felt buzz *mostly* on the right side, in the right grip and definately in the right foot peg. I was also feeling this wearing my tennies. When I commute to work, I gear up in Helmet, Jacket and Jeans but don't necessarily wear boots to work. It's just a pain in the butt to deal with for the short commute. My break in tended to be some extended rides home after work however (again, in tennies vs. good riding boots).

At the 600 miles service I synced the throttle bodies, which really weren't that far out of line, but I did not check them at 4k RPM. (maybe I should have, they may have been out worse up there).

Also just before my 2400 mile trip I recieved the new guts to move my heavy Throttlemeister bar ends from my ZX11 to the Feejer, which I did.

Needless to say, I never felt during the entire 2400 mile trip that the Feejer was too buzzy. It was less buzzy IMHO that Zed. Did my right hand go numb? Only once that I can recall during a really long stretch of road that I was hitting pretty hard for a long, long time, and it wasn't that bad.

Buzz in the right peg was also all but gone with good boots.

No doubt the throttle sync and heavy Throttlemeister helped, but I'm sure break-in had a lot to do with it too.

 
I have an 06 A model and noticed this vibration when the bike was new. Vibration was not so bad in the bars but felt in the footpegs and between the knees. I installed a Throttlemeister lock mainly because of the strong throttle return spring and that did reduce the vibes in the bars. I also installed a set of the Skyway billet frame sliders. It is interesting to note that when I removed the motor mount bolts to install the sliders, they wer just barely hand-tight. Service manual calls for 37 or 40 ft/lbs. on these!! Once the sliders were installed and torqued properly, the vibration decreased markedly. My FJR was never objectionable from a vibration standpoint, but it was noticeable. I suspect that a thorough review of all engine mounting bolt torques may help the situation. I have 850 miles on mine and it is scheduled but has not been in for the 600 mile service yet. They are suposed to check all torque values at that time. I will most probably go over the entire bike myself as I am not sure I can trust the delaer to do a thorough job of this. My reasoning.... I doubt that engine mount bolts would go from 40 ft/lbs. to < 5 ft/lbs. in less than 1,000 miles. I believe they were never torqued upon assembly, hence my lack of trust. I will have the dealer provide the 600 mile service as required by the warranty to ensure that my 4 year YES remains intact. But I will make sure all bolts are torqued to spec. for peace of mind. Just my $.02.

 
I have an 06 A model and noticed this vibration when the bike was new. Vibration was not so bad in the bars but felt in the footpegs and between the knees. I installed a Throttlemeister lock mainly because of the strong throttle return spring and that did reduce the vibes in the bars. I also installed a set of the Skyway billet frame sliders. It is interesting to note that when I removed the motor mount bolts to install the sliders, they wer just barely hand-tight. Service manual calls for 37 or 40 ft/lbs. on these!! Once the sliders were installed and torqued properly, the vibration decreased markedly. My FJR was never objectionable from a vibration standpoint, but it was noticeable. I suspect that a thorough review of all engine mounting bolt torques may help the situation. I have 850 miles on mine and it is scheduled but has not been in for the 600 mile service yet. They are suposed to check all torque values at that time. I will most probably go over the entire bike myself as I am not sure I can trust the delaer to do a thorough job of this. My reasoning.... I doubt that engine mount bolts would go from 40 ft/lbs. to < 5 ft/lbs. in less than 1,000 miles. I believe they were never torqued upon assembly, hence my lack of trust. I will have the dealer provide the 600 mile service as required by the warranty to ensure that my 4 year YES remains intact. But I will make sure all bolts are torqued to spec. for peace of mind. Just my $.02.
I did the 600 mile service myself... Linky in the FAQ around here somewhere. Fact is, in the US they cannot require you to have Yamaha do it to keep your warranty intact, that's the law. They may hassle you but if you keep reciepts and records and do it according to the book you're as good as they are.

I too was going to have the dealer do it but decided otherwise after input from others. They basically have to prove you're incompetent. I think they basically proved to me that they were incompitent when both of their techs told me it didn't need a TB sync at 600 miles when in fact it does.

It's not that hard, a service manual costs all of $40 bucks online and you know you'll do a better job.

-MD

 
I have owned many different in-line 4 cyclinder bikes, and the FJR is by far the smoothest of any I have had or ridden.

At 4K miles on the odometer, I just switched to Mobil One (Gold Cap 15w-50) and noticed a marked decrease in what little buzz there was, as well as improved shifting. A previous throttle body sync also helped, as did the Barbarian mod (+7 increments richer on all 4 cylinders).

My FJR is now smooth as a babies bottom. No complaints from me. You might try switching to a good synthetic oil like Mobil One and see if that helps.

 
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