06 throttle response

[ionbeam]

The TPS shaft is locked to the throttle plate shaft. When you increased your idle speed you pushed on the throttle stop which then slightly rotated the throttle plate shaft which rotated the TPS shaft. The diAG reading went up because the throttle plates were turned up --but-- the relationship/proportionality between the throttle shaft and TPS never changed. To effect that kind of change you would need to loosen the two T25 Security Torq screws and physically rotate the TPS.

BTW, your idle speed would like to be a bit higher than 900 rpm. I think spec is something like 1k to 1.2k rpm.

Keep after it!

 

[Fred H.]

I am pretty confident that the root cause of the jerky throttle syndrome on the 2006 is the new progressive throttle pulley they put on this year.

 

[tripletango]

I am pretty confident that the root cause of the jerky throttle syndrome on the 2006 is the new progressive throttle pulley they put on this year.

Think you are right about the pulley. Lightening up the return spring should help as it make it easier to feather the throttle - so important on the AE. I guess a smoothy map may not hurt either. No one has done an 06 PC yet that I know of.

 

[S76]

Continuing on with my W.A.G. about the throttle position sensor, in that, maybe if it is adjusted to the high side it would change the on/off ness of the throttle.
My bike stalled on me twice recently. The idle speed was 900 RPM and the Throttle Position sensor adjustment was right in the middle of the normal range. So I cranked up the idle to 1200 RPM's and rechecked the TPS setting at idle. It was 16. Almost at the "top" of the normal idle range. Hmmm. So I drive to work and it seems "better." Increasing the idle speed definetely helps quite a bit with drivability. I can't say the On/Off ness of the throttle is gone. However, with all of the mods in place it is at a minimum right now anyway.

Operating under my favorite assumption, "If a litttle does a little good....." I decide to adjust the TPS even higher so I set it to 18 at idle. Just above the recomended range. Going for a test ride now to see what happens.

Will post back in an hour if it is interesting, or 3 hours if it runs like crap and I have to put everything back to normal. LOL

THREE HOURS LATER!

Yup, all that TPS stuff did absolutely nothing. It didn't run any worse, but it didn't run any better so I took it all apart again and put the the TPS back to 16. The only good out of this was yesturday when I set the idle from 900 to 1200. That was an improvement on drivability.

And all that bit about how the TPS setting went up when I adjusted the idle speed, (which seemed logical and normal at the time), well, I must have misremembered the numbers or something. Because upon further examination today I noticed the idle speed adjuster, (located at the 1 oclock position on the clutch cover on the right side,) has a cable on it and the cable is not routed to the carbs or the throttle shaft, and does not move the throttle shaft at all. Rather, it is routed to a vacuume bypass valve that allows air into the intake beyond the throttle plates to increase idle speed. Whoda figured?

This is becoming a perfect example of "The more you know, the more you know you don't know."

And, I do agree with Fred on the throttle geometry issue, I just don't know if that's all of it.

But I leave you with one question: How many times in a row do you think a guy can install and tighten down the gas tank only to find the little plastic fuel line safety clip on the work bench?

Answer: Three! (and counting)