06 Windshield & Neutral light don't work

[OHFJR]

I have been installing both electrical and non electrical farkles on my bike over the last few days and when I went to test everything before reassembly, I find the windshield won't go up and the green neutral light does not come on. Everything else on the bike works fine except for these two items. I've checked all the fuses and they look good. There are no disconnected wires that I can find. I don't have a electrical wiring diagram, so I really don't know what to check or where to look next.

Before tearing into the front frairing completely does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong?

 

[Bearly Flying]

What electrical Farkles did you do, and where did you tap in for starters.

 

[OHFJR]

What electrical Farkles did you do, and where did you tap in for starters.

I installed power to my sirius radio, gps, and radar detector. I also installed a new horn and the autocom unit. I think the problem occurred in the installation of the dual star grip heaters. For power to the grip heaters I used the power cord from the windshield auto retract feature after disconnecting it. After thinking about it I realized this probably isn't enough power to run the grip heaters. Anyways, there are two small male connectors in the electrical socket of the auto retract feature and one of those male leads is hot and the isn't of course. I used a female connector and went over both of these leads to go to the grip heater on/on switch. I never hooked the other end up to the switch, but I think the power lead accidently grounded out on the bike frame when I hooked the battery up. Now there is no power to that male lead of the auto retract cord. I probably need someone with an 06 manual to determine from the electrical schematic how these three features (auto retract, neutral light, windshield up/down operation) are tied together and where the problem may be.

 

[Bearly Flying]

I would suspect a blown fuse. Check FJRTech on how to install a switched barrier strip, makes it a lot easier and safer installing electrical farkles.

 

[HIGHLANDER]

For power to the grip heaters I used the power cord from the windshield auto retract feature after disconnecting it.

I'd bet the fuse from the windshied is blown, I remember discussion on this in the earlier posts that there was a 2 amp fuse protecting the windshield operation. Consensus was that it was a bad idea to tap off of this connection ( although some have ).

Edited to say i just searched the old euro board and yes.. windshield retract and neutral light are on the same 2 amp fuse... don't know where it is though..

 

[OHFJR]

I would suspect a blown fuse. Check FJRTech on how to install a switched barrier strip, makes it a lot easier and safer installing electrical farkles.

I installed a swithed power strip under the driver's seat and ran power to all my other farkles mentioned above along with my widder power cords. I did not run the grip heaters to the powder strip because I running out of room on the strip. I have checked all the fuses in the two fuse boxes and they all are good and all other items on the bike seem to work. I'm wondering if there is an inline fuse that I don't know about or can some tell me which fuse these three items are linked to.

For power to the grip heaters I used the power cord from the windshield auto retract feature after disconnecting it.

I'd bet the fuse from the windshied is blown, I remember discussion on this in the earlier posts that there was a 2 amp fuse protecting the windshield operation. Consensus was that it was a bad idea to tap off of this connection ( although some have ).

Highlander

Any idea were this fuse is located?

 

[HIGHLANDER]

Still searching OHFJR, turns out there are two fuses that govern the windshield.

Torch on the Euro board is electrician supreme, so here's a old post where he explains shield function ( another owner had a non functioning screen, dealer thought the motor was burned up )

Quote from Torch on the Euro board.

The windshield gets it's power from the backup fuse and the windshield motor fuse. I suspect the backup fuse is the actual source of power to the motor itself and the windshield fuse is strictly for control power (I say this because while the windshield fuse is only 2 amps, the backup fuse is 10. I can't see needing all that surplus to run the clock and odometer! Also, the backup is unswitched while the windshield fuse is dead with the key off.)

It seems likely that there are two possible components to control the auto-retract feature. First, there must be some sort of voltage sensing to determine when the key is shut off. That is easily done by monitoring the windshield fuse circuit. Second, there must be some sort of limit switch to determine when the windshield is fully lowered to prevent draining the battery. If either of these two components failed, then the system wouldn't work. That is, if the system does not detect the key has been shut off, then it will not proceed to the retraction stage. Alternatively, if the limit switch is stuck then the system would act as though the windshield was already retracted.

From the wiring diagram, both components are probably integral with the windshield motor unit, similar to automotive windshield wiper motors. Both power circuits go directly into the motor unit and the disabling jumper is connected directly to the motor unit. I have not disassembled the motor to have a look inside though.

It is interesting to note the configuration of the windshield control switch. It grounds both the UP and DOWN circuits simultaneously. The motor only operates when one of those wires is UNgrounded. Also, the motor has it's own ground wire, separate from the switch. These two factors suggest that the switch is simply a control circuit and the actual power flowing through the motor is controlled internally and not through the handlebar switch. This in turn could suggest that there are semiconductors involved, internal to the motor unit, and highlights the possibility of voltage sensing failure in the auto retract mode.

Short answer: assuming the wires to the motor are all ok, connectors uncorroded, fuses intact, etc. then the problem likely exists within the motor unit just like the mechanic said.

 

[OHFJR]

Still searching OHFJR, turns out there are two fuses that govern the windshield.

Does anyone know the location of these two fuses Highlander mentioned above?

 

[Constant Mesh]

A 15 amp fuse, the 'Signaling System Fuse', powers the windshield controller, horns, brake lights, and glove box solenoid latch.

The 10 amp 'Backup Fuse' powers the windshield controller, clock, tripmeters, etc. when the ignition key is switched off. The green neutral light gets its power from this fuse.

You can look in your owner's manual to see where these fuses are located. You remove the plastic panel in front of the fuel tank on the right side to expose the fuse boxes.

 

[OHFJR]

A 15 amp fuse, the 'Signaling System Fuse', powers the windshield controller, horns, brake lights, and glove box solenoid latch.
The 10 amp 'Backup Fuse' powers the windshield controller, clock, tripmeters, etc. when the ignition key is switched off. The green neutral light gets its power from this fuse.

You can look in your owner's manual to see where these fuses are located. You remove the plastic panel in front of the fuel tank on the right side to expose the fuse boxes.

I have already checked both of these fuses and power is getting through the fuses at these location. Also my clock, tripmeter, horn, brake lights and glove box solenoid all work. I'm thinking there maybe some other inline fuses he is referring to.

 

[HIGHLANDER]

A 15 amp fuse, the 'Signaling System Fuse', powers the windshield controller, horns, brake lights, and glove box solenoid latch.

The 10 amp 'Backup Fuse' powers the windshield controller, clock, tripmeters, etc. when the ignition key is switched off. The green neutral light gets its power from this fuse.

You can look in your owner's manual to see where these fuses are located. You remove the plastic panel in front of the fuel tank on the right side to expose the fuse boxes.

I have already checked both of these fuses and power is getting through the fuses at these location. Also my clock, tripmeter, horn, brake lights and glove box solenoid all work. I'm thinking there maybe some other inline fuses he is referring to.

Yep my 04 manual shows three fuses, it looks like the 2 amp is inline somewhere. :blink:

 

[OHFJR]

A 15 amp fuse, the 'Signaling System Fuse', powers the windshield controller, horns, brake lights, and glove box solenoid latch.

The 10 amp 'Backup Fuse' powers the windshield controller, clock, tripmeters, etc. when the ignition key is switched off. The green neutral light gets its power from this fuse.

You can look in your owner's manual to see where these fuses are located. You remove the plastic panel in front of the fuel tank on the right side to expose the fuse boxes.

I have already checked both of these fuses and power is getting through the fuses at these location. Also my clock, tripmeter, horn, brake lights and glove box solenoid all work. I'm thinking there maybe some other inline fuses he is referring to.

Yep my 04 manual shows three fuses, it looks like the 2 amp is inline somewhere. :blink:

I just ordered a new service manual for the 06 so I guess I'll know if a few days where they hid this inline fuse. Knowing my luck I'll have to tear the whole front end apart to get to it. If anyone finds it in their 06 manual let me know. I'm tried of seeing that bike on the stand instead of the road.

 

[HIGHLANDER]

Yep my 04 manual shows three fuses, it looks like the 2 amp is inline somewhere. :blink:

I just ordered a new service manual for the 06 so I guess I'll know if a few days where they hid this inline fuse. Knowing my luck I'll have to tear the whole front end apart to get to it. If anyone finds it in their 06 manual let me know. I'm tried of seeing that bike on the stand instead of the road.

The manual doesn't show location, just the wiring diagram. :angry2:

I'm thinking Skooter had his power strip hooked up there at one time ( if memory serves me right ). You might want to PM him, but I think there's a LD run this weekend ?

 

[Constant Mesh]

There are only two fuses associated with the windshield operator.

Since the horns work and the clock is powered when the ignition switch is off the fuses are obviously OK.

It would seem that the six-wire electrical connector attaching the wiring harness to the windshield controller has become disconnected.

There are two electrical connectors at the windshield mechanism. One is a six-wire connector and the other is a two-wire connector. The two-wire unit allows the windshield to reset to the down position when the key is switched off. This is a loop-thru circuit. The reset feature is disabled when you break this two-wire loop connection.

I suspect the six-wire connector at the windshield motor/operator has become disconnected.

The six wire colors are:

red/green = 12 volt back-up power supply

brown = 12 volt power supply for horns, brake lights, etc.

sky blue/white = 'down' signal from hand rocker switch

sky blue = power to green neutral light from windshield controller

light green = 'up' signal from hand rocker switch

black = ground (return) for windshield motor/controller

 

[HIGHLANDER]

There are only two fuses associated with the windshield operator.
Since the horns work and the clock is powered when the ignition switch is off the fuses are obviously OK.

It would seem that the six-wire electrical connector attaching the wiring harness to the windshield controller has become disconnected.

There are two electrical connectors at the windshield mechanism. One is a six-wire connector and the other is a two-wire connector. The two-wire unit allows the windshield to reset to the down position when the key is switched off. This is a loop-thru circuit. The reset feature is disabled when you break this two-wire loop connection.

I suspect the six-wire connector at the windshield motor/operator has become disconnected.

The six wire colors are:

red/green = 12 volt back-up power supply

brown = 12 volt power supply for horns, brake lights, etc.

sky blue/white = 'down' signal from hand rocker switch

sky blue = power to green neutral light from windshield controller

light green = 'up' signal from hand rocker switch

black = ground (return) for windshield motor/controller

Must have changes the 06 wiring ? My 04 wiring diagram for the windshield drive system shows the 2 amp fuse in there ?

 

[OHFJR]

There are only two fuses associated with the windshield operator.
Since the horns work and the clock is powered when the ignition switch is off the fuses are obviously OK.

It would seem that the six-wire electrical connector attaching the wiring harness to the windshield controller has become disconnected.

There are two electrical connectors at the windshield mechanism. One is a six-wire connector and the other is a two-wire connector. The two-wire unit allows the windshield to reset to the down position when the key is switched off. This is a loop-thru circuit. The reset feature is disabled when you break this two-wire loop connection.

I suspect the six-wire connector at the windshield motor/operator has become disconnected.

The six wire colors are:

red/green = 12 volt back-up power supply

brown = 12 volt power supply for horns, brake lights, etc.

sky blue/white = 'down' signal from hand rocker switch

sky blue = power to green neutral light from windshield controller

light green = 'up' signal from hand rocker switch

black = ground (return) for windshield motor/controller

Constant Mesh

The six wire connector your talking about appears to be the one right by the auto retract connector. Is this correct? The wire colors seem to match up correctly. I checked this connector several times and it seems to be together as tight as it can be.

 

[Constant Mesh]

The earlier models had a 2 amp fuse dedicated to the windshield unit. On the '06 they've dropped this dedicated fuse. Now, this power is supplied from the horn, brake lights, etc. circuit.

I'd disconnect the six-wire connector and do some testing with a voltmeter.

Disconnect the connector. Pull it in the clear so you can access it with voltmeter leads.

Before turning the switch key on test the following:

Check the voltage on the red/green wire -- you should read about 12.5 volts between the red/green wire and the black wire. This verifies that the backup circuit is energized.

Next, with the key switched on test the following:

Check the voltage on the brown wire -- you should read about 12.5 volts between the brown wire and the black wire. This verifies that the power from the horn circuit is available.

If these both check OK then the problem is likely in the windshield controller.

The idea of tapping power from the windshield reset circuit was never a good one. No one knows what's inside the windshield control mechanism. It's a 'black box'. So, connecting to this reset circuit is an unknown.

I hope you didn't damage the electronics in the mechanism when you were tapping power from the reset circuit. Anytime you add accessory power circuits please connect to easily understood components. There is no doubt in what you're affecting when you connect to the battery posts, the starter relay terminal, etc. But when you connect to a 'black box' you may be asking for trouble.

 

[Bounce]

WARNING: Do NOT use the windsheld auto-retract as your power source. The wiring harness isn't robust enough. Use it as your source for the energizing circuit (on/off) of a relay. Get the power to run your devices from the main side of the relay (which runs from the battery, to the relay, to the device - ie: power block, grip heater control, etc.). The low voltage side of the relay should be the only thing fed from the auto-retract connector.

Using the auto-retract as the feed for the low voltage side of a relay is no big deal. The draw to close the switch in a relay is no more than that used by the auto-retract. Real-life use over combined hundreds of thousands of miles on multiple bikes has proven this application.

Trying to use the auto-retract circuit as the primary source for powering something is a completely different idea than what has been documented and has never been recommended.

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html