'07 Final Drive

[Rick_W]

2007 FJR with a little over 50,000 miles - I bought the bike new.

I did a once over of the bike this morning before going to work and everything looked good, front tire was about 1 psi lower than I normally start with, but figured it would be ok.

Jumped on it after lunch to head up to Augusta, GA for a couple days of BBQ eating.

Nothing really felt wrong, but there was something that just didn't feel right.

I do remember feeling a vibration in the seat and thinking "I've never felt that before" but as it quit fairly quickly I chalked it up to being due to the pavement.

About 70 miles out the feeling that something was wrong was still there. The steering actually felt heavier than normal.

I didn't think 1 psi would make that kind of a difference but decided to stop and check everything anyways. I've had some problems with angled valve stems coming apart, each tire has done it once. I had a stubby, straight valve stem put on the front rim about two months ago.

Rear tire was up to about 46 psi (up from 40 psi cold) and the rear rim was clean. Seemed normal to me.

Front tire was only up to 39.5 psi (up from 36.5 psi cold). That didn't sound right.

Tried to use one of those gas station air pumps to put air in the front tire, ended up with 34.5 psi when I was done! :angry2:

Decided to just turn around and come back.

After I made it back I let the bike cool off and went out to check the tires.

Found some "sludge" on the rear rim. The final drive oil was last changed at 36,000 miles.

Local dealer is packed and said to call Tuesday.

I guess now is a good time to also have the valves checked, replace the plugs, & sync the throttle bodies.

 

[Ignacio]

You didn't say how many miles on the tires, but is the rear cupped? Run your hand over it and do the edges seem feathered? If so, anything other than a straight line and things will feel off as the tires "roar". Tires can cup quickly.

Some sludge or spew on the rear rim doesn't necessarily mean things are going south on the final drive.

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Here is a link that you may find useful if you want to do the work yourself:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=7530&hl

Good Luck with the Fixes...

 

[Rick_W]

You didn't say how many miles on the tires, but is the rear cupped? Run your hand over it and do the edges seem feathered? If so, anything other than a straight line and things will feel off as the tires "roar". Tires can cup quickly.

Some sludge or spew on the rear rim doesn't necessarily mean things are going south on the final drive.

Right at 6,000 miles on Michelin PR2 - it's not cupped.

I've never seen this "stuff" on either of my rims.

Still, hoping for the best...

 

[BwanaDik]

Pictures?

 

[SkooterG]

A little bit of 'splooge' on the rear wheel is not something that is necessarily anything to worry about. How much is it? And also very important, where is it coming from? The bottom of the final drive or pumpkin? Or the weep hole out the bottom of the swingarm?

More than likely there is nothing seriously wrong with your final drive. As Iggy mentioned, your tires may be worn. Frankly, I would have the tire pressures higher than you are running. More like 40-42 front, and 42-44 rear. Lower pressures will lead to earlier cupping.

Final drive oil can 'weep' past the various seals in the final drive. Sometimes this phenomena will stop on it's own. I would only be immediately concerned if a LOT of oil is coming out. When my seals were 'marginal' they were leaking on and off for a long time and many miles before I have them fixed. So stress less, and ride more.

Here's some good reading for you: Splooge on the rear wheel.

 

[Rick_W]

Pictures?

I will get some pics tomorrow.

 

[Rick_W]

A little bit of 'splooge' on the rear wheel is not something that is necessarily anything to worry about. How much is it? And also very important, where is it coming from? The bottom of the final drive or pumpkin? Or the weep hole out the bottom of the swingarm?

More than likely there is nothing seriously wrong with your final drive. As Iggy mentioned, your tires may be worn. Frankly, I would have the tire pressures higher than you are running. More like 40-42 front, and 42-44 rear. Lower pressures will lead to earlier cupping.

Final drive oil can 'weep' past the various seals in the final drive. Sometimes this phenomena will stop on it's own. I would only be immediately concerned if a LOT of oil is coming out. When my seals were 'marginal' they were leaking on and off for a long time and many miles before I have them fixed. So stress less, and ride more.

Here's some good reading for you: Splooge on the rear wheel.

Appreciate both links - good info.

The oil appears to be coming from the bottom of the FD. I will try to get some pics tomorrow.

This trip I was traveling light, so I left the pressure where it was. When I load the bike up I do pump up the pressures to 40 front/42 rear. Running those pressures I got 18,000 miles out of the last front tire and 9,000 from the rear. 99% of my riding is highway/interstate & flat country backroads. Some of the biggest & longest twisties around here are on/off ramps.

 

[Donal]

Before you get too concerned with your final drive oil - open the fill-up plug and check the level. It should be somewhere around the bottom of the threads. a little either way is no big deal.

Has the oil been changed recently? mine always weeps a tiny amount on the first ride after an oil change.

And you tyre pressures are definitely on the low side, I run 39 front & 42 rear, I consider that to be absolute minimum.

Good luck with it

Don

 

[twistedcricket]

If it's leaking from the bottom check the drain bolt. I change the rear drive fluid every other oil change. It's easier than an oil change but you need two additional crush washer (IMHO). Easy enough to do yourself and I'd only be concerned if you don't see the oil when you remove the top bolt or stick something in there to discover the oil level if it's not near the top bolt hole.

However, it's your bike and your money. Do what you feel is necessary.

 

[HotRodZilla]

If it's leaking from the bottom check the drain bolt. I change the rear drive fluid every other oil change. It's easier than an oil change but you need two additional crush washer (IMHO). Easy enough to do yourself and I'd only be concerned if you don't see the oil when you remove the top bolt or stick something in there to discover the oil level if it's not near the top bolt hole.

However, it's your bike and your money. Do what you feel is necessary.

Why do we need two additional crush washers? Are you saying you use two washers on your final drive drain bolt, or are you saying you use two crush washers...One for the oil and one for the FD? I'm getting ready to do mine soon and want to know this before I take things apart. I would like to avoid a leaking final drive because of doing something dumb.

 

[RossKean]

Crush washers??? I still have the originals on both the final drive and the oil pan after 60,000 miles. No leaks so far! (Probably jinxed myself)

 

[TomInPA]

There are crush washers on the final drive filler and drain bolts, but I have not had trouble reusing them. I refresh them every couple of changes just because I have a pretty good supply.

 

[SkooterG]

Why do we need two additional crush washers? Are you saying you use two washers on your final drive drain bolt, or are you saying you use two crush washers...One for the oil and one for the FD? I'm getting ready to do mine soon and want to know this before I take things apart. I would like to avoid a leaking final drive because of doing something dumb.

Dork. There are TWO bolts you need to take off for final drive oil replacement. The top FILL bolt, and the bottom DRAIN bolt.

And I know, blah, blah, blah, but I always replace the crush washers every time.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Why do we need two additional crush washers? Are you saying you use two washers on your final drive drain bolt, or are you saying you use two crush washers...One for the oil and one for the FD? I'm getting ready to do mine soon and want to know this before I take things apart. I would like to avoid a leaking final drive because of doing something dumb.

Dork. There are TWO bolts you need to take off for final drive oil replacement. The top FILL bolt, and the bottom DRAIN bolt.

And I know, blah, blah, blah, but I always replace the crush washers every time.

Haha...As soon as I saw Tom's post I realized what TC was saying. Sometimes I'm not too bright. I donno if I'll worry about the crush washers though. I have new ones, but haven't used them yet during an oil change, and so far, no leaks. Watch...now when I go outside, there's gonna be a puddle of oil under my bike.

 

[scubatech]

Why do we need two additional crush washers? Are you saying you use two washers on your final drive drain bolt, or are you saying you use two crush washers...One for the oil and one for the FD? I'm getting ready to do mine soon and want to know this before I take things apart. I would like to avoid a leaking final drive because of doing something dumb.

Dork. There are TWO bolts you need to take off for final drive oil replacement. The top FILL bolt, and the bottom DRAIN bolt.

And I know, blah, blah, blah, but I always replace the crush washers every time.

Haha...As soon as I saw Tom's post I realized what TC was saying. Sometimes I'm not too bright. I donno if I'll worry about the crush washers though. I have new ones, but haven't used them yet during an oil change, and so far, no leaks. Watch...now when I go outside, there's gonna be a puddle of oil under my bike.

I always switch to copper ones on my vehicles. They last indefinitely and do not leak. Old school tech!!

 

[twistedcricket]

Why do we need two additional crush washers? Are you saying you use two washers on your final drive drain bolt, or are you saying you use two crush washers...One for the oil and one for the FD? I'm getting ready to do mine soon and want to know this before I take things apart. I would like to avoid a leaking final drive because of doing something dumb.

Dork. There are TWO bolts you need to take off for final drive oil replacement. The top FILL bolt, and the bottom DRAIN bolt.

And I know, blah, blah, blah, but I always replace the crush washers every time.

Haha...As soon as I saw Tom's post I realized what TC was saying. Sometimes I'm not too bright. I donno if I'll worry about the crush washers though. I have new ones, but haven't used them yet during an oil change, and so far, no leaks. Watch...now when I go outside, there's gonna be a puddle of oil under my bike.

How is it that you missed the "(IMHO)" part?? It's my opinion that you should replace them. Not a forum/world/universal fact. Step back from the internet and breathe for a bit homey.

I hope you don't find a puddle under the bike...

 

[SkooterG]

Why do we need two additional crush washers? Are you saying you use two washers on your final drive drain bolt, or are you saying you use two crush washers...One for the oil and one for the FD? I'm getting ready to do mine soon and want to know this before I take things apart. I would like to avoid a leaking final drive because of doing something dumb.

Dork. There are TWO bolts you need to take off for final drive oil replacement. The top FILL bolt, and the bottom DRAIN bolt.

And I know, blah, blah, blah, but I always replace the crush washers every time.

Haha...As soon as I saw Tom's post I realized what TC was saying. Sometimes I'm not too bright. I donno if I'll worry about the crush washers though. I have new ones, but haven't used them yet during an oil change, and so far, no leaks. Watch...now when I go outside, there's gonna be a puddle of oil under my bike.

I always switch to copper ones on my vehicles. They last indefinitely and do not leak. Old school tech!!

Do you always add your comments within someone else's quotes also?

 

[HotRodZilla]

Why do we need two additional crush washers? Are you saying you use two washers on your final drive drain bolt, or are you saying you use two crush washers...One for the oil and one for the FD? I'm getting ready to do mine soon and want to know this before I take things apart. I would like to avoid a leaking final drive because of doing something dumb.

Dork. There are TWO bolts you need to take off for final drive oil replacement. The top FILL bolt, and the bottom DRAIN bolt.

And I know, blah, blah, blah, but I always replace the crush washers every time.

Haha...As soon as I saw Tom's post I realized what TC was saying. Sometimes I'm not too bright. I donno if I'll worry about the crush washers though. I have new ones, but haven't used them yet during an oil change, and so far, no leaks. Watch...now when I go outside, there's gonna be a puddle of oil under my bike.

How is it that you missed the "(IMHO)" part?? It's my opinion that you should replace them. Not a forum/world/universal fact. Step back from the internet and breathe for a bit homey.

I hope you don't find a puddle under the bike...

Dude...You're not paying attention. I screwed the pooch on what you said. You said that in your opinion a person would need two new crush washers.

That confused me because I forgot about the fill bolt having to come off too. It has nothing to do with what anyone thinks of crush washers. That's why I said it was me being stupid. Forgetting about the fill bolt, I was thinking you were using two washers to seal the drain bolt.

After Tom and Skooter set me straight, I realized why a person that wants to use new washers would need TWO new ones.

Sheesh.