09 fjr trouble

[wirefire]

havin g 2 issues with my new fjr,

1. Sometimes when I slowly throttle up to take off my bike just dies..poof.. like a loss of tps signal mabey? It restarts immediatley, but it makes me look like I didnt give it enough gas/clutch action, it also happens while sitting on my centerstand so I know its not operator error, I tightened up the throttle cable a bit ( it felt a bit loose ) making sure im still idling at 950-1000 and still some freeplay but it didnt cure the problem.

2. Sometimes I'll roll up to a parking spot in 2nd gear and kill the bike to go get my lunch or whatever, and when I restart the bike to leave, it will not go back into 1st gear, it goes into neutral just fine, but not 1st, I shift it around a bit then.. give it a mean downshift past neutral.. and it finally slams into 1st.. and the bikes idle speed is fine clutch and is pulled in all the way,rolling the bike and general angle of the bike does not seem to change this, this is a brand new bike and my dealer doesnt seem to have a clue over the phone neways.

Anyone else have this happen to thier feejer?

 

[dsmack]

Wire ~

I'm not an expert by any means, but it sounds like you may be having a bit of a problem with the clutch pack similar to others described in the various threads about the need to oil soak your clutch linings.

You might want to do a Google search on the term oil soaking clutch site: FJRForum.com (or other similar variations) and do a little reading.

Sounds like the clutch may be dragging a bit and not giving you full disengagement.

Good luck, and report back!

Don

 

[RadioHowie]

+1 on everything dsmack just wrote.

 

[Niehart]

How many miles? Set your idle to at least 1100 until you get some miles on the bike.

 

[wirefire]

Im closing in on 800 miles on the bike and the clutch isnt the problem for sure.. I have lots of engage and disengagement.

If the clutch wasnt disengaging it would not want to shift throug any of the gears.. let alone just 1st gear.. thats why im perplexed

 

[Niehart]

Wirefire, miles are your friends.

Also on the right side [brake side] of your bike, straight down from your knee is when you set on the bike, under the fairing is the idle adjustment knob. Turn that idle up to 1100.

 

[mcatrophy]

havin g 2 issues with my new fjr,...

it will not go back into 1st gear, it goes into neutral just fine, but not 1st, I shift it around a bit then.. give it a mean downshift past neutral.. and it finally slams into 1st.

...

Possible suggestions:

Make sure your change lever is springing back to its relaxed position properly (could be you are not releasing it completely or it's a bit stiff).

Have you tried releasing the clutch (in neutral), pull it again, then re-try changing into 1st?

Or, move the bike with your feet a couple of inches, then try again?

 

[Constant Mesh]

Recommendation:

Always be in 1st gear when you start the engine. It's easy to shift into 1st with the engine off -- you may have to roll the bike back and forth a bit to ease it into 1st. By starting in gear you avoid the neutral to 1st clunk.

For a cold start I always packpedal the bike in 1st with the clutch lever pulled in to break loose the clutch plates before starting the engine -- possibly making it a bit easier for the starter motor.

 

[wirefire]

The idle speed is correct and will not fix an intermiddent problem with the transmission not shifting into 1st gear, the bike now has 1200 miles on it and idles perfectly.

Taking your foot completely off the pedal and " upshifting the trans into all the other gears" means it's not operator error and fully released from neutral and all other speeds.

and "always be in 1st gear when you start your bike? " um... the safest gear to be in when you start ANY engine is not 1st.. its neutral, besides... is this a 49 knuckle head?.. or a brand new state of the art 09 fjr 1300? with very few miles on it, thats why I started this thread.... this should not be happening at all.. period.

 

[wfooshee]

Still sounds like sticky clutch plates. Several guys reported having to remove the plates and soak them in oil overnight, then reassembling, and it works fine.

If you start the engine in first, does the starter crank slower than when starting in neutral, and does the bike try to lurch when the starter kicks in? Those are sticky clutch symptoms, and easy to check. Just start it in first instead of neutral and see if it's different. If the clutch is OK, there'll be little or no difference.

Also, is it different when the bike's cold versus hot?

"It's brand new and so there's nothing wrong with the clutch or the idle" is not the answer. There is something wrong with the clutch, it's a known issue on many recent FJRs. Nothing else explains the resistance to going into first while stopped with the engine running.

And setting the idle up to 1100 is a good thing to do for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is that the vast experience of the collective says 950 is too low. Raising it to 1100 does improve shifting into first.

I don't know what this means:

Taking your foot completely off the pedal and " upshifting the trans into all the other gears" means it's not operator error and fully released from neutral and all other speeds.

Nobody said it was operatior error. At least three people said it was a clutch problem, and at least two other said the idle was too low. A couple of us have post counts with a comma in them, so maybe instead of "That's not it, that's not it, that can't be it," maybe you could try one or both suggestions and let us know how it goes.

Easiest, again, to answer and troubleshoot is to compare startup in first with startup in neutral. Slower cranking and/or bike lurching is definitive evidence of clutch plates sticking.

BTW, a sequential shifter like a motorcycle will shift just fine, both directions, without the clutch, although you ought not to make a habit of downshifting clutchlessly. Point is, saying it can't be the clutch because it shifts OK is not valid.

 

[RadioHowie]

Uh-oh.......

Walt's about to go all Fooshee on someone!

Don't mess wit dem Panhandle boys. They know where THEY buried the bodies. :assassin:

 

[RadioHowie]

a brand new state of the art 09 fjr 1300? with very few miles on it....this should not be happening at all..

Youi're right. It shouldn't be happening. But in fact it there are many, MANY documented cases of poor clutch disengagement due to dragging clutch plates on Gen II bikes.

If the clutch wasnt disengaging it would not want to shift throug any of the gears.. let alone just 1st gear.. thats why im perplexed

If this is what you're basing your judgement on that it's NOT the clutch, you couldn't be more wrong. A sequential shift vehicle like a motorcycle is VERY easy to shift up and down through the gears with a bad clutch. Hell, anyone with experience can drive a bike all day without touching the clutch, given a deft touch, except for getting it into 1st from neutral.

As wfooshee put it so simply,

Easiest, again, to answer and troubleshoot is to compare startup in first with startup in neutral. Slower cranking and/or bike lurching is definitive evidence of clutch plates sticking.

This is such a simple experiment. Shut the bike off. Sit on the bike. Push the gearshift lever into 1st gear, even if it takes rocking the bike back and forth to get there. Pull the clutch in. Start the bike. Does the bike lurch forward when you hit the starter? If yes, your clutch plates need a good soaking overnight in motor oil.

If it won't go into 1st gear with the engine off, then it's Yamaha's problem, not yours. And if you don't already have one, buying a Y.E.S. is something you should consider.

 

[PA1195]

All the above is good advice. Your Dealer will do the clutch lube if you work with them to resolve the shifting and get-go problems. If not, there's lots of help here and about 1-2 hrs of easy work ahead.

You might also consider the Barbarian idle mixture mod. It will help reduce the lean idle symptoms, and may give you a bit more ommph getting going if the rpms suddenly drop too low on clutch engagement. Four to five CO units more for all cylinders is plenty for most folks.

Hope it gets better.

Gary in Fairbanks

 

[ceddec]

You say you have 800 miles on the bike. This is still early in the break in on the bike and yourself too. Once I got past the second oil change and circa 4000 miles, my similar issues were gone. I just chalked it up to my learning to ride a machine of this size and nature while the bike broke in. No issues since.

 

[don handshy]

havin g 2 issues with my new fjr,1. Sometimes when I slowly throttle up to take off my bike just dies..poof.. like a loss of tps signal mabey? It restarts immediatley, but it makes me look like I didnt give it enough gas/clutch action, it also happens while sitting on my centerstand so I know its not operator error, I tightened up the throttle cable a bit ( it felt a bit loose ) making sure im still idling at 950-1000 and still some freeplay but it didnt cure the problem.

2. Sometimes I'll roll up to a parking spot in 2nd gear and kill the bike to go get my lunch or whatever, and when I restart the bike to leave, it will not go back into 1st gear, it goes into neutral just fine, but not 1st, I shift it around a bit then.. give it a mean downshift past neutral.. and it finally slams into 1st.. and the bikes idle speed is fine clutch and is pulled in all the way,rolling the bike and general angle of the bike does not seem to change this, this is a brand new bike and my dealer doesnt seem to have a clue over the phone neways.

Anyone else have this happen to thier feejer?

I bought my 08on Jan 2 of this year. I now have 3000mi on it and sometimes it dies like yours, if I dont blip the throttle. Also, I adjusted my shift linkage to solve the first gear engagement problem and its worked fine. I would like to raise my idle up to 1100 but cant find the knob...where is it exactly?...don

 

[RadioHowie]

I would like to raise my idle up to 1100 but cant find the knob...where is it exactly?...don

Just underneath the frame rail by your right knee while sitting on your bike. Gold-colored, knurled (or star-shaped) knob.

DON'T turn it CCW...the "business" end of the adjuster shaft CAN unscrew itself from the throttle body rack and can be quite the bitch to get re-threaded.

DAMHIK.

 

[wirefire]

Still sounds like sticky clutch plates. Several guys reported having to remove the plates and soak them in oil overnight, then reassembling, and it works fine.
If you start the engine in first, does the starter crank slower than when starting in neutral, and does the bike try to lurch when the starter kicks in? Those are sticky clutch symptoms, and easy to check. Just start it in first instead of neutral and see if it's different. If the clutch is OK, there'll be little or no difference.

Also, is it different when the bike's cold versus hot?

"It's brand new and so there's nothing wrong with the clutch or the idle" is not the answer. There is something wrong with the clutch, it's a known issue on many recent FJRs. Nothing else explains the resistance to going into first while stopped with the engine running.

And setting the idle up to 1100 is a good thing to do for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is that the vast experience of the collective says 950 is too low. Raising it to 1100 does improve shifting into first.

I don't know what this means:

Taking your foot completely off the pedal and " upshifting the trans into all the other gears" means it's not operator error and fully released from neutral and all other speeds.

Nobody said it was operatior error. At least three people said it was a clutch problem, and at least two other said the idle was too low. A couple of us have post counts with a comma in them, so maybe instead of "That's not it, that's not it, that can't be it," maybe you could try one or both suggestions and let us know how it goes.

Easiest, again, to answer and troubleshoot is to compare startup in first with startup in neutral. Slower cranking and/or bike lurching is definitive evidence of clutch plates sticking.

BTW, a sequential shifter like a motorcycle will shift just fine, both directions, without the clutch, although you ought not to make a habit of downshifting clutchlessly. Point is, saying it can't be the clutch because it shifts OK is not valid.

wow.. I sure am glad we all have a know it all like yourself help us poor idiots out, wfooshee you can stop replying to any of my posts,.. go treat someone else poorly.

 

[Patriot]

Still sounds like sticky clutch plates. Several guys reported having to remove the plates and soak them in oil overnight, then reassembling, and it works fine.
If you start the engine in first, does the starter crank slower than when starting in neutral, and does the bike try to lurch when the starter kicks in? Those are sticky clutch symptoms, and easy to check. Just start it in first instead of neutral and see if it's different. If the clutch is OK, there'll be little or no difference.

Also, is it different when the bike's cold versus hot?

"It's brand new and so there's nothing wrong with the clutch or the idle" is not the answer. There is something wrong with the clutch, it's a known issue on many recent FJRs. Nothing else explains the resistance to going into first while stopped with the engine running.

And setting the idle up to 1100 is a good thing to do for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is that the vast experience of the collective says 950 is too low. Raising it to 1100 does improve shifting into first.

I don't know what this means:

Taking your foot completely off the pedal and " upshifting the trans into all the other gears" means it's not operator error and fully released from neutral and all other speeds.

Nobody said it was operatior error. At least three people said it was a clutch problem, and at least two other said the idle was too low. A couple of us have post counts with a comma in them, so maybe instead of "That's not it, that's not it, that can't be it," maybe you could try one or both suggestions and let us know how it goes.

Easiest, again, to answer and troubleshoot is to compare startup in first with startup in neutral. Slower cranking and/or bike lurching is definitive evidence of clutch plates sticking.

BTW, a sequential shifter like a motorcycle will shift just fine, both directions, without the clutch, although you ought not to make a habit of downshifting clutchlessly. Point is, saying it can't be the clutch because it shifts OK is not valid.

wow.. I sure am glad we all have a know it all like yourself help us poor idiots out, wfooshee you can stop replying to any of my posts,.. go treat someone else poorly.

 

[Ignacio]

wow.. I sure am glad we all have a know it all like yourself help us poor idiots out, wfooshee you can stop replying to any of my posts,.. go treat someone else poorly.

Hey, my 9 post friend. It rarely.....nay.....NEVER helps to tell somebody to stop replying to posts on the Neenernet. In fact, it tends to have the opposite effect.

I've read through the various posts and things have been very cordial to this point.

You've gotten some decent advice from some knowledgeable folks that have diagnose a whole lot of things that have come through these doors. Some of the commas in people's posts come from banter, but they also usually come from experience.

You can disregard it all of course....and wait until somebody else might post with some different advice to your you're liking. But, in the meantime....take it down a notch and be cordial.

Thanks.

The Management