0w-40 Oil - only 4Stroke I can find here

[bigdolma]

Sorry but I could not create a new thread at the "never ending..." area the button was greyed out so No Soup For You.

I always used 15w-50 Motul in Kalifornia, here in Dubai found Mobile 1 0W-40 fully synth.

The temperatures dont go below 70 anytime during the year (and thats centigrate) just kiddin...

Seriously, winter temps are low 70s maybe 65 the least and the rest of the time above 90s and even 110 with humidity.

Recommend the 0W-40?

Thank you,

 

[Graham Downunder]

I am from downunder so I do not get realy low temperatures, maybe -2 C would be the lowest My bike gets before start up ,but that said I run 0-40 Mobil Gold cap which unfortunatly cost me $99 for 5 litres . Where you are I would look at silver cap mobil 5-50 ( not the 5-30 ).Avoid anything that say ESP or energy saving as these generally have Molidium in them this is NO GOOD for the clutch .You do not need the thin quality in cold weather start ups that 0 -40 gives you . You do need a bit of protection of the 5-50 ( or even 15-50 )which is thicker so it dose not go to thin in high temperatures . These are my opinions only.

 

[Bounce]

Personally I'd not run 0w-anything in a bike with a wet clutch because of the "friction modifiers" that go into them. Long term clutch slippage issues could result.

 

[roger dodger]

Considering the high prices and limited choices available, maybe this is the reason to switch back to dino oil. Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella makes a 15w-40 that works in bikes AND trucks.

The wider the viscosity range, the more modifiers are required to 'strech' the oil. So 0-40 is not going to give you 40w as long as 15-40 would stay @ 40w. Some modifiers ARE hazardous to wet clutches, so since you don't need cold weather flow, go KISS and keep higher viscosity in both #'s.

 

[Fred W]

Personally I'd not run 0w-anything in a bike with a wet clutch because of the "friction modifiers" that go into them. Long term clutch slippage issues could result.

The only 0W40 I'm aware of is Mobile1, and it is a truly superior oil. It is a full synthetic and doesn't require massive amounts of viscosity modifiers (I assume that is what you meant) to achieve those ratings. I've used it successfully in some high output SAAB turbo engines, and actually that is the only oil that SAAB would allow to be used under warranty on their HOT 2.0 liter engines, to eliminate any chance of oil sludge or turbo bearing coking issues with their factory recommended extended oil drain intervals.

That said, I wouldn't ever waste my money on that stuff for use in my FJR with just 4-5 k mile oil changes. Any 15W40 dino oil is plenty good enough for our application. Contrary to popular opinion, there is really nothing all that strenuous or demanding going on inside our FJR engines and we do not use extended change intervals.

 

[bramfrank]

+1 for what Fred says.

Any multigrade oil with 40 as the second number ought to work fine as long as it has the appropriate designation: API - SE, SF, SG or higher.

 

[Zorlac]

Personally I'd not run 0w-anything in a bike with a wet clutch because of the "friction modifiers" that go into them. Long term clutch slippage issues could result.

I've been running Mobil 0W-40 for probably the last 50K miles in an 03 Concours without any issues (103K on her), shifts like silk.The FJR seems to prefer the Mobil 15W-50, less clunky shifts.