110 Octane Racing Fuel
- Thread starter Yar
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Octane rating is the measure of a fuel's ability to resist knocking or pinging during combustion. Anything over 87 RON is a waste of money as the FJR engine isn't a high-compression engine. But if running ethanol free fuel is a religion to you AND one of the 1096 stations in Florida that supposedly carry at pure-gas.org (and much cheaper than racing fuel I'm sure) are too far from you....carry on I guess.
Addendum: I looked more closely at your picture. See the big yellow sticker that says, "LEADED"? While lead won't do anything to your engine directly--it likely will screw up your catalytic converters and potentially choke your engine.
Octane rating is the measure of a fuel's ability to resist knocking or pinging during combustion. Anything over 87 RON is a waste of money as the FJR engine isn't a high-compression engine. But if running ethanol free fuel is a religion to you AND one of the 1096 stations in Florida that supposedly carry at pure-gas.org (and much cheaper than racing fuel I'm sure) are too far from you....carry on I guess.
Addendum: I looked more closely at your picture. See the big yellow sticker that says, "LEADED"? While lead won't do anything to your engine directly--it likely will screw up your catalytic converters and potentially choke your engine.
RossKean
Well-known member
Don't use leaded gas! As Ignacio said, it will ruin the catalytic converter and might possibly cause other damage. Tetraethyl lead (and the lead oxide formed from combustion) are toxic to people and catalysts.
There isn't anything inherently wrong with 10% ethanol in gasoline. It MAY be more prone to attracting moisture but rarely an issue if you keep the tank reasonably full and don't let it sit unused for extended periods of time. (Keeping the tank full goes a long way toward preventing issues related to condensation.)
I certainly haven't had issues storing my bike over the winter with E-10.
There isn't anything inherently wrong with 10% ethanol in gasoline. It MAY be more prone to attracting moisture but rarely an issue if you keep the tank reasonably full and don't let it sit unused for extended periods of time. (Keeping the tank full goes a long way toward preventing issues related to condensation.)
I certainly haven't had issues storing my bike over the winter with E-10.
VA weather has my bike sitting for long periods of time, so far. I do keep the tank reasonably full. Have no problem running ethanol gas during trips when I know the gas will be used rather quickly.
I headed the warning and will not be using that racing gas, LOL! Why I started the thread. Smarter people than me know this stuff!
I headed the warning and will not be using that racing gas, LOL! Why I started the thread. Smarter people than me know this stuff!
RossKean
Well-known member
I filled up my tuned STi once with 101 pump fuel from a place in NW OKC. 20 years ago it was $6 a gallon (think regular at about $2). If the engine's not tuned for it you won't see a performance issue but may see an issue with deposits building up from the higher octane resisting ignition. Biggest change will be to your wallet.
Since the STi was tuned for 93, it won't be able to advance timing enough (EFI) to adapt to the ability of that magic fuel to resist pre-detonation.
If I had to leave something set for extended times, I'd do like I did with my Mom's car as she aged, dose the tank with fuel stabelizer and then go top off the tank before parking it.
Since the STi was tuned for 93, it won't be able to advance timing enough (EFI) to adapt to the ability of that magic fuel to resist pre-detonation.
If I had to leave something set for extended times, I'd do like I did with my Mom's car as she aged, dose the tank with fuel stabelizer and then go top off the tank before parking it.
Nowheelies
Active member
I have had problems with carbs getting goofed up after sitting through our long winters. Not always, but I hate working on carbs so played around with a few different scenarios to work around it. I settled on using ethanal free gas at the end of the season. Around here that means unleaded 93 octane. That includes for mower, ATVs, boats and motorcycles for the winter and snow blowers for the summer. Although it does not matter with the riding mower and snow blower as I drain the tanks and run until they drain as much out of fuel system as possible. Have not had any issues since starting to do that.
Of course due to condensation and hassles of draining motorcycle and boat tanks it seems to make more sense to not monkey with that. Hence the ethanol free gas.
Of course due to condensation and hassles of draining motorcycle and boat tanks it seems to make more sense to not monkey with that. Hence the ethanol free gas.
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My .02. Some carbs tend to get gunked up if you leave them full of fuel for 6 months - regardless of the fuel. Briggs carbs suck, I drain them for the winter. Honda small engine carbs - not even sure what they look like, I have never had to touch one. My fz1, I drain since they are a finicky carb. Various carbs on gm and jeep engines seem content to sit with fuel in bowls.
CollingsBob
CFR2022 Rally Chair, Certified JB Welder
I fill with Shell Premium which is ethanol free, dump in several ounces of Seafoam, then ride it for 40-50 miles…top up with more Shell Premium, add more Seafoam just because..then hook up the battery tender and cover the bikes up. This works on my ‘17 FJR and on my ‘53 Vincent.
For carbureted engines that may sit long enough unused for fuel to dry up in the carburetor, I siphon most of the fuel from the tank, then add a SMALL amount of 2-stroke oil to the remaining fuel. Run the engine long enough for the "oiled" fuel to reach the carb(s) then drain, and / or run dry. The light oil coating on the internal carb surfaces prevents the last fuel drying up from clogging the small internal passages and helps slow the corrosion in the older carbs. For small engines, I usually leave the fuel tank dry. For larger engines with steel fuel tanks and fuel cut off valves that will set for only 1 off season, I usually top it off with treated fuel. If it will set longer, I usually splash some of that oily fuel around then drain the tank dry. I might put a little seafoam or other fuel system cleaner in the first tankful after hibernation. Usually have no problems with first start-ups with new fuel.
Where I live, I don't do anything special for fuel injected engines for the off season. There are usually enough nice days to get the scooter out and go for a ride, even in the dead of winter. It was 83 degrees here yesterday, and 85 degrees today.
YMMV
dan
Where I live, I don't do anything special for fuel injected engines for the off season. There are usually enough nice days to get the scooter out and go for a ride, even in the dead of winter. It was 83 degrees here yesterday, and 85 degrees today.
YMMV
dan
Got spoiled in FL where ethanol free was easily available usually at the nearest "WaWa" or "Gates". Here it is available only after I go out of my way and cross a toll bridge. Cost from that station is 0.84/gallon more which equates to little over $4 more a fill up.
I have only been able to ride, for a few days, since arriving back in early December. Partly due to my thinned out blood from to much time in FL and partly I leave the house at O dark thirty, heading to the gym, after my Bible time. I can and have ridden my bike all winter, in snow when she was all I had. I have lived in Maine. I have lived in Kansas. I have taken more cold winter survival course from the military than I care to talk about. So i know how to do this. Doesn't mean I like it though, LOL!
After reading the posts above I am beginning to wrap my head around ethanol gas is ok if I will ride occasionally through out this winter.
Thanks All!
I have only been able to ride, for a few days, since arriving back in early December. Partly due to my thinned out blood from to much time in FL and partly I leave the house at O dark thirty, heading to the gym, after my Bible time. I can and have ridden my bike all winter, in snow when she was all I had. I have lived in Maine. I have lived in Kansas. I have taken more cold winter survival course from the military than I care to talk about. So i know how to do this. Doesn't mean I like it though, LOL!
After reading the posts above I am beginning to wrap my head around ethanol gas is ok if I will ride occasionally through out this winter.
Thanks All!
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Diablo1
Well-known member
Ethanol free gas is better for long term storage, but you won’t have any problems using 10% gasohol if you add a few ounces of Stabil to the tank before storage. Sea foam is not a gas stabilizer, although many folks think it is. Sea foam is isopropyl alcohol.
RossKean
Well-known member
Seafoam contains isopropyl alcohol (10-30%).
The remaining 70-90% includes "Hydrocarbon-based solvent" and "Petroleum distillates" according to the SDS sheets. Other than the IPA, the constituents are hidden as a "trade secret but there is really nothing special. Likely naptha, for the most part.
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
Besides all the above about ethanol not being the killer that folks still think it is, that fuel is not legal for street use.
Tenmilsocket
Member
Most of my bikes are carbureted so I have always tried to use ethanol free especially when it comes to overwintering. According to Ryan F9 it's not as much an issue with FI bikes:
Because the FJR is designed to be E10 compatible. As others said, the only issue is long term storage. I typically do see slightly better mpg with non-ethanol fuel, but it's not a deal breaker. Some people are overly concerned about E10, thus behave as devout followers of the religion of "no E10 shall enter my bike's fuel system!". If that's you, carry on, it's completely fine and certainly your choice.
Don't run the leaded 110 for two reasons: The lead will build up on valve stems and clog the Cat. And, It's usually illegal to pump "race" fuel directly into a vehicle unless it's a genuine off road used race vehicle. Most stations have a low threshold and may ask you "Is that a race vehicle", which covers their butt, but if some over zealous LEO spots you filling from the pump with a plated vehicle, you could be cited.
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
It just occurred to me to wonder if your thinking is along the lines of, "It's race fuel, so it's more powerful."
Nope nope nope. high octane does not mean higher power from the engine. The opposite is true: more powerful engine require higher octane fuel, for the resistance to pre-ignition that comes from the octane rating.
Nope nope nope. high octane does not mean higher power from the engine. The opposite is true: more powerful engine require higher octane fuel, for the resistance to pre-ignition that comes from the octane rating.
