1st Century maintenance, suspension upgrade and general maintenance advice

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MajBach

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Location
Vancouver Is, BC
Hi all. After reading the Bin-O-Facts from start-to-finish, spending hours combing through threads on various forums/sites and consulting with a fellow rider, I’ve decided to put it out there and see what others have to add.

I have a 2009 that is about to turn 100,000 kms (okay, a Canadian century) and, other than changing all fluids (excluding forks) annually, I haven't done a lot of work to it. Last fall I began to notice the suspension seemed to be showing signs of age and I decided it's time to do some major maintenance. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have a shop and tools, I've just reached a stage that I would rather pay an expert than fix things myself. Unfortunately, I just haven't found a local mechanic I trust so I intend to do as much at home as I reasonably can. Aside from the obviously little things outlined in the manual like lubrication points, fluids, plugs etc., there are a few more significant areas I'd appreciate some input; mostly about suspension.

Last fall, I noticed taking the twisites didn't seem as sure-footed as it had in previous years and it felt a little bouncy. I'm not even that sure how to tell when it's time to change the shocks but the fact that I seemed to notice it on my last few rides would suggest I need to do something. At the two FJR rallies I've attended, the most recommended upgrade/farkle for the FJ is performance suspension, (also seems to be the most $$$). I've read numerous times about how crummy the stock suspension is but frankly, I've never had issues with it. I've been told as well that stock suspension is good for 30,000 miles tops. Mine still seems adequate at double that. Perhaps I don't know what I am missing because I have never driven an FJ that has upgraded shocks, but it's never been an area that I gave a lot of consideration. I have, on the other hand, read up considerably on suspension settings so it's not completely foreign to me.
I’ve read many of you speak of GP Suspension, however the exchange rate and distance may make a trip there prohibitive. I also met the owner of RMR in Vancouver - which is also highly acclaimed. He clearly specializes in off-road and racing but he certainly sold me on his knowledge and service. He's not a big fan of stock suspension - no surprise there- and basically left me with the impression with "go big or not at all". Although, I may have given him the impression I wanted to spend big $$$ for a big upgrade. For the rear suspension, he really only recommended one brand - Ohlins - and also said they're the most expensive for a reason. He also recommended I get a set-up that allowed for compression adjustment and not just preload, like with stock. He explained that since I have two distinct riding styles: local aggressive sport riding in the mountains and long distance cross country touring, that the wide range of load on the rear suspension would make that option desirable; (I'm about 275 out of the shower and always wear full gear. When I am on a long journey, I typically camp so I likely have 150 pounds of gear or more).
For the front, he recommended new springs and bushings and shocks - the whole ball of wax. I was really impressed with his thoroughness at this point. He said there were two brands he recommended (I can't recall the first one's name, I think it came from Quebec). The other was one manufactured by GP racing in Oregon. He said there was a slight design difference but it had been awhile so he actually called both places and spent 5 minutes getting some info - including price. In the end, he said GP had changed their design and both were near identical now so may as well go with the lower priced one in Canada - which would also make warranty claims, shipping, brokerage fees etc., simpler. Of course, all of this is like a foreign language to me. So here is the part that makes all of this a decision I need help with: The cost of going with the complete set of suspension upgrades is $3200 installed. If I take the rear shock that doesn't have a compression adjustment, it was only $2600; still big $$$. I did a quick check on-line and stock shocks and cartridges would probably be at least $2000 just for the parts alone. I don't know how big a difference performance shocks would be from stock. Heck, I don't even know for certain if I need new shocks. Someone recently recommended I consider a Gen III assembly on the rear and just change the oil (and bushings?) in the front. Perhaps using a heavier oil as well. What are your thoughts?

Next item: steering head bearings. Manual said they are way overdue for inspection and repacking (and likely replacing) but everything I read on-line tends to suggest it's a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" part. I don’t observe any play in the front end but perhaps I just change them out with needle bearings if I am going to be doing work on the forks anyway?
Valves & CCT. These two seem to be items that lead to a lot of problems. From all the threads Ive read, valves are often fine in FJs with 3x the mileage as mine. As for the CCT, I haven’t read anyone here that with a bike newer than 2008 that has had problems or has felt the need to change theirs. Maybe I should just leave them?
**On second thought**...I just found a 2 month old thread on checking valve clearances. Guess I would be stoooopid not to if I am going to go that deep. But, it looks like one helluva tedious job. I did find a how-to thread on another site but it was for a Gen I. Any differences from a Gen II?

I’m going to be stripping the bike down in the next few days. I want to lube all the pivot points, try and change my own rear tire, some headlight mods, change fluids and plugs, manifold sync and perhaps change the original brake pads. The deepest I have ever gone is removing all the plastic and syncing the manifold. I’ve never removed an axel, changed a tire, seen a steering head bearing or even know how shocks work. I have an expensive torque wrench and all the sockets required but I know I will need at least a tool for steering head bearing. I do not know however, what, if any, extra tools I will need for doing the shock/forks. As a matter of fact, if the shocks and/or steering head bearing were the only items I wanted to work on, I wouldn’t hesitate to take it to a dealer rather than tackle it on my own. But I figure if I am going to have if I am going to have everything else apart. Basically, whatever upgrades I do to the suspension and whether or not I perform the work myself will be based entirely on advice I receive from you all.

In a nutshell, I am looking for direction on upgrading -or at least restoring- my suspension as well as some considerations on the other areas I’ve mentioned and any others I may have missed. I have found plenty of step-by-step guides and/or videos on this site and others on almost all of these areas except for suspension.

Thanks again for all your input.

 
Stay tuned to the web site for the spring PNW scheduled tech get-together and prepare to ride on down for the get together. I have seen folks change their fork oil at this event, just make sure you bring all necessary goodies, lots of informative good folks here.

 
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Major,

As an Island boy my suspension advice is save your Loonies and Toonies and take a road trip to Auburn and do a ride in service at KFG Suspension (GP Suspension). I had my 06 done by Dave at GP years ago and serviced by KFG. Night and day difference in handling. Yes the exchange sucks but by the time you pay for someone to do it up here it will work out to be about the same amount of money. And you have a good excuse to go on a road trip (Olympics, 101 or Hwy 20, Baker, Rainier.........) Another option is order the parts from KFG and do it yourself.

My 2 cents. Oh, I guess its 5 cents as we have no pennies in Canuckistan. Minus the exchange rate today...... Comes to 3.61 cents U.S.

 
I have put 110-120,000 miles on Gen I FJRs. The rear shocks, in my experience, were good for about 30-40,000 miles (you do the conversion). I don't think there was much difference between OEM Gen I and II except for the heavier spring in Gen II. I am cheap parsimonious frugal so have simply opted for low-mileage take-offs from others, sourced here on this forum. The Gen II and III go right on and you get the heavier spring. As big as you are and as much crap as you haul, I'd bet that rear shock of yours is sacked. They go away gradually and you may not really notice the decline in performance...until you get a new one. We had one that actually started leaking. You could hardly ride the damn thing by the end of the trip - couldn't hold a line, all over the turns... Sheesh! A shock's internals will wear out, It doesn't need to leak to be toast.

This place is inhabited by experts (I am an amateur) and they will be along to help with your issues.

 
Some of us could write a book on all the advice and how to spend your money.. .... I agree, find the PNW tech day...... those guys know their **** and a much longer conversation will likely steer you in the right direction.

 
I always thought my rear stock shock was fine for me.. until I switched to a Wilbur that was set up for my weight. It's no Ohlins, but I immediately noticed the difference. I'm keeping that shock for my next set of wheels (unless I end up on an es.) I'm now a believer in suspension work. Keep your eyes open, sometimes you can grab a used one cheap and have it rebuilt for you.

 
affordable option is gen 3 rear shock new from what ive seen in a few posts around here, little firmer than gen 1 and 2 and a lot less $ than aftermarket options. I will probably just change my shock to a single progressive spring rated for my weight and call it good from Hyperpro. also some shops will rebuild oem "non rebuild" shocks as well at a decent price.

 
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As a Gen 1 owner and a fellow Canuck, I decided to bite the bullet back in 2013 on a quality alternative to the Ohlins units out there - took delivery of a European "HyperPro" rear shock, specified to my weight, my passenger & luggage, and my varied riding style (perhaps similar to yours).

There was a history here of Wilbers rear shock group buys - but I came too late to this party. Perhaps that was a good thing, as though those new shocks did well on owners' bikes for a year or so, I read that a number of them complained that the Wilbers unit started to fail for some reason.

The HyperPro unit cost me $1293 US funds plus a little shipping back then - probably about $1800 CDN now I'm guessing.

https://www.epmperf.com/streetbox.html

I had no trouble installing it in my humble garage with high-school-era mechanical skills, a Canadian Tire torque wrench, and some careful focus.

The unit I have now includes a convenient gloves-on adjustable hydraulic preload adjuster I mounted to the right lower frame (just above the rear brake cylinder), and I have had no trouble with it over ~ 20,000 Kms so far.

I was treated well by Klaus and his staff, and their bespoke settings for my shock have never been tainted by a screw driver of mine - the tech's settings really work well for me. Also, going this route, you can have them set the shock length to a little shorter or longer by adjusting the locking nut. I added 1/2" to rear height this way, which helps the front end practically fall into corners.

Am still considering buying some progressive springs / valves / bushings (the whole update package) for the front end too - may get my local small shop to handle this one for me instead - did one similar job back in the 80's on my XJ750RL, and don't think my work was executed correctly.

I agree with other responders here - changing especially the rear suspension to a new unit adjusted properly to your weights and style will make your face hurt from smiles the first few rides. Best bigger money I've spent on my girl.

 
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I just spent 90 minutes reading that thread that HaulinAshe posted about preload and now I am way more confused.
uhoh.gif


Yea no doubt I am going to notice night and day difference once I get new shocks - even if they are stock. No matter what I buy, it's going to be significant coin so I really want to spend it right. As much as it is the ideal option, I just cannot see myself hopping on the bike and driving 10 hours to Oregon pulling into a shop and saying "make it better". There are enough experts here and mechanics that I should be able to make an informed decision and proceed from there. I have heard good things about "tech days" but I don't want to put all my eggs in one basket; there's a good chance I'll be at sea anyway.

I just find talking suspension to be so foggy in nature - nothing seems quantifiable or simple to compare. Take that thread above for example - even the experts are in stark disagreement on some things. What I am desperately trying to resolve are the everyday noticeable differences and limitations or advantages from type of system or manufacturer to another. Like:

- what is the difference from a Gen III rear suspension (aside from stiffer) to a Gen II?

- how will this be beneficial or detrimental during different riding styles?

- why are aftermarket suspension considered so much better? What do they do that stock doesn't?

- does the spring and shock come as a unit or do you buy them separately?

- what components are serviceable or up-gradable in the forks and how does each component change how the bike rides?

So many questions - SIGH

 
Best money in my very humble opinion is the rear Shock, Barry down at KFC likes the Penske a bit better I do believe. The Penske is a bit easier to rebuild also from what I gather.

While the FJR front suspension isn't the best it is certainly not the worst and if you just rebuilt it and had the SAG set up for your riding weight then shown how to add a bit of preload for you extra camping weight you would do OK. It is well worth spending the money for the GP parts that Barry sells, Dave Hodges the original owner of GP is there doing the machining right there in house at KFC.

I would call and ask to talk to Barry let them know what your thinking then set up a ride in appointment.

Just to put this out there I felt a bit disappointed with some service time issue's with KFC. I voiced my opinion about it to Barry. Barry stood up and invited me down and we rebuilt my forks which are the 25 mm cartridge kit's for the late model FJR and then we rebuilt my Ohlins rear shock. This means I worked there right in the shop with him and learned about this set-up. This was a year and a half later. He also won't have the issue of not having the parts as Dave Hodges is machining the parts so there won't be any six week wait anymore because some vendor didn't deliver. So what I'm trying to convey is that Barry is a stand up guy and will back up what he does.

KFC is in Kent Washington, not that far for you. Another thing, the after market shocks are meant to be rebuild by a shop the stock ones not so much.

Now back to the rest of the story, if the tech day happens come down to Auburn, learn a little, lie a little and meet some of the NW folks.

 
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<snip>
I agree with other responders here - changing especially the rear suspension to a new unit adjusted properly to your weights and style will make your face hurt from smiles the first few rides. Best bigger money I've spent on my girl.
Thanks for that. I was already writing my post that follows yours when you posted it. I keep hearing the same song "...money well spent" when it comes to aftermarket suspension. Perhaps I will stop in at a dealer tomorrow and find out what all the parts for a Gen III replacement as well as full service to the front will set me back. If it comes down to a few hundred bucks, I'll just bite the bullet and fork out for the good stuff and have an expert do all the work.

The dilemma is the bike won't be enjoyable with a sub par ride but spending that kind of coin on a 7 year old bike with that kind of mileage...i just don't know. I've got a boat that needs TLC to think about too.

Thanks so far................

 
<snip>
KFC is in Kent Washington, not that far for you.

Now back to the rest of the story, if the tech day happens come down to Auburn, learn a little, lie a little and meet some of the NW folks.
Any idea when that usually is?

I suppose I can get a few hundred more miles out of mine before upgrading. Would be nice to see how it's done too.

 
@MajB, If you are on land when the spring PNW Tech Day comes around, try and make the trip south. It'll be time well spent!

Regarding suspension, you'll get as many different answers for that as you will for seats, windshields... pick the topic. My $.02, if you've been happy with stock suspenders for 100k kms, then perform a full rebuild on the forks [bushings, seals, fluid] and add a set of aftermarket springs suitable for your weight. With the load you're packing you will benefit installing a aftermarket shock [Penske 8975] with the proper spring for you. For the Penske, you'll spend double what a OE GEN III will cost but it will be the last one you'll buy.

Good luck!

--G

 
Per AuburnFJR who's home we invade:

"Is there a spring Tech Day each year? If so, Is there a date I should block out for 2016?

There is, but it has not been set yet. It most likely will be end of April or early May. We usually wait to see how bad the mountains get snow before I set the date so the is a better chance those traveling long distance to attend. I'll post up the date end or Feb or early March once we see how the winter plays out."

 
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<snip>
KFC is in Kent Washington, not that far for you.

Now back to the rest of the story, if the tech day happens come down to Auburn, learn a little, lie a little and meet some of the NW folks.
Any idea when that usually is?

I suppose I can get a few hundred more miles out of mine before upgrading. Would be nice to see how it's done too.
Figure late April to early May. We'll make sure it's a sunny warm weekend!
smile.png


--G

Edit, Pops types faster than I do!

 
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Keeping it simple, GenIII shock spring = 976 lbf/in vs. GenII = 708 lbf/in...... stiffer spring. You weigh 275, if you were happy with the Gen 1 shock, then the GenIII will be an improvement. However, they are a two-piece spring affair with limitations. Nothing like an aftermarket where the spring is longer, can be tailored to your weight, optional adjustments for damping. Cogent Dynamics, RaceTech, are more alternatives additional to what has been mentioned. Penske probably the more cost effective.

Forks, you definitely need upgraded springs over stock (~$U150)...... use RaceTech or Sonic's spring rate calculator. You can get away with keeping the stock valving IMHO if you've been happy with it so far, but again, aftermarket will be better if you want to spend money.

 
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I upgraded to the GP front end and a Penske outback. Best thing I ever did to my FJR. Like you I have an 09. Yes it is expensive and even more so with the exchange rate. I had mine installed by KFG Racing in Auburn who bought out GP Suspension.

Is this worth it? Ah like you I tried to justify the stock suspension then road a friend's 09 with the GP/Penske setup. The difference is night and day. He said it was like the bike was on rails and he is right. Just fricking awesome. Gotta ride it to believe it. Words to not suffice. The stock 09 suspension SUCKs!

Alternatively you could update to a Gen III and you may find like some the Gen III suspension suits your needs. Gen III has a better spring in the rear. Not sure about the front but folks at the Tech Day know or somebody will respond to this opinion, after all it is the FJR forum!

Hope to see you at Tech Day in Auburn Wa.

 
affordable option is gen 3 rear shock new from what ive seen in a few posts around here, little firmer than gen 1 and 2 and a lot less $ than aftermarket options. I will probably just change my shock to a single progressive spring rated for my weight and call it good from Hyperpro. also some shops will rebuild oem "non rebuild" shocks as well at a decent price.

That video was awesome! Really makes the servicing look do-able at home. Hard part is going to be deciding what parts to use. Thanks.

 
I upgraded to the GP front end and a Penske outback. Best thing I ever did to my FJR. Like you I have an 09. Yes it is expensive and even more so with the exchange rate. I had mine installed by KFG Racing in Auburn who bought out GP Suspension.
Is this worth it? Ah like you I tried to justify the stock suspension then road a friend's 09 with the GP/Penske setup. The difference is night and day. He said it was like the bike was on rails and he is right. Just fricking awesome. Gotta ride it to believe it. Words to not suffice. The stock 09 suspension SUCKs!

Alternatively you could update to a Gen III and you may find like some the Gen III suspension suits your needs. Gen III has a better spring in the rear. Not sure about the front but folks at the Tech Day know or somebody will respond to this opinion, after all it is the FJR forum!

Hope to see you at Tech Day in Auburn Wa.
I think I am convinced. When you upgraded your rear, did you have to decide on a spring or does it come as a complete setup? Would you be able to supply me with some links to the parts?

I'm still quite foggy what individual parts are serviceable or upgrade-able and what ones you switch out as a whole. The 'guts' inside the front forks in that video that was posted above don't look anything like the cartridge I was shown at RMR.

Getting closer!

 
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