2003-2006 FJR Suspension GROUP BUY!!!!!!!!!

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Ok, I have a question. I see where one of you guys had the suspension shop measure the actual spring rate of the Wilbers fork springs. It was something like 0.75k. Did we all get the same fork spring on the Wilbers group buy? If so, I'm about 200#, and am wondering if I should upgrade to the Eibach 0.95k spring. Any advise would be great.

Thanks,

Rick

 
Ok, I have a question. I see where one of you guys had the suspension shop measure the actual spring rate of the Wilbers fork springs. It was something like 0.75k. Did we all get the same fork spring on the Wilbers group buy? If so, I'm about 200#, and am wondering if I should upgrade to the Eibach 0.95k spring. Any advise would be great.
Thanks,

Rick
Every pair of wilbers fork springs we have seen have rated out at between .76-.80 kg, the OEM springs rate @.80 kg. The Wilber fork springs are basically the same rate as stock, just made longer to preload them more. You in theory could achieve the same results as wilbers by adding a spacer to the oem springs and saving the $100.00 or so that you spent on them. The springs we are installing are of a .95 kg rate with alot less preload than Wilbers.

 
I specifically spoke w/ Klaus about the rebuild today and what I posted is exactly what he stated to me and I verified it a second time prior to posting. I will call him again tomorrow and broach the rebuild issue. As I said, he did the things my shock needed to make it right at no charge and was very specific about the 5 year warranty on our group buy shocks.

 
I specifically spoke w/ Klaus about the rebuild today and what I posted is exactly what he stated to me and I verified it a second time prior to posting. I will call him again tomorrow and broach the rebuild issue. As I said, he did the things my shock needed to make it right at no charge and was very specific about the 5 year warranty on our group buy shocks.
It will be interesting to see what Klaus says. Generally, a warranty covers errors and failures, but not normal wear and tear.

 
[SIZE=14pt]ADMIN NOTE: [/SIZE] Please be absolutely clear about one thing:

This particular thread is about the Nov 20 - Dec 4 GP Suspension Group Buy: the GB details; the GB logistics; the GB schedules, and questions GB participants have for the vendor, etc, etc, etc.

It is NOT about the warranty work from Wilbers, or any other issues related to Wilbers.

If you want to discuss issues related to your Wilbers shock, you are certainly free to do so. In a new thread that you are free to start elsewhere.

But there will be NO hijacking of this thread, which is solely to discuss the Nov 20 - Dec 4 GP Suspension Group Buy.

Therefore, be advised: from this post forward, any forum member who attempts to hijack this thread to discuss matters unrelated to the details/logistics of this Group Buy will have their post deleted. If you'd like to be an ass-hat about it, be an ass-hat about it elsewhere... like in a different thread.

Again, you are free to start a discussion elsewhere to talk about your experience with other suspension components, be it Wilbers, Ohlins, Penske, or what have you.

Thank you for your thoughtful consideration in this matter.

 
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I uninstalled my Wilber rear and the front forks. Headed to Wal-Mart now to see if I can find a box and packing material long enough for the forks. Figure I need a box over 40 inches long.

Looking forward to those front Eibachs and possible respringing of the rear. I'll be honest that I think I underestimated weights when I ordered my Wilber originally and look forward to correcting my mistake with this Group Buy. To be sure I actually weighed things this time around and was very surprised at the cargo weight.

I knew I was 265, but thought gear weighed about 12 pounds. I weighed typical summer gear and found it to be 20.

Rider and Gear Weight = 285 pounds

The bigger difference was weighing all the gear I have when I'm in long distance rally mode. That fuel cell and all the goodies one needs when wandering North America really adds up in pounds.

Tank Bag, Dash area electronics, and HID lights = 22 pounds

Fuel Cell, 4.8 gallons of fuel, cover, first aid kit, and water = 22+32=54 pounds

Pelican rear case, laptop, Polaroid, CB antennae, and goodies = 26 pounds

Sidecases + contents for a week = 12+12+30=54 pounds

Total cargo weight = 156 pounds

I guess my point is that I HIGHLY suggest that anybody ordering a rear shock or having a Wilber resprung actually get out the bathroom scale and weigh at least their cargo. You may be surprised.

Rider and Gear (285) + Cargo (156) + Bike (642) = 1083 pounds! Who'd have thought I'd be tipping the 1/2 ton mark on a sport-tourer.

And if that seems high, I had a talk with Doug Chapman at WFO-5 and he went through several iterations of weighing things, getting honest with himself, and went with GPSuspensions over a year ago and says his Dreadnought FJR is closer to 1150 pounds with him on it.

 
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When I spoke to Dave, Unless I misunderstood him, He asked me my Un-geared body weight.

Dave if you need it with bike ladden - We need to Talk again.

 
When I spoke to Dave, Unless I misunderstood him, He asked me my Un-geared body weight.
Dave if you need it with bike ladden - We need to Talk again.
He may have, but given that I have a remote preload on my Wilbers I will want to pay particular attention to this weight differential on the shock rebuild given my LD and rallying requirements. It doesn't necessarily apply if you're going new shocks.....just if you have an undersprung Wilbers.

 
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Tank Bag, Dash area electronics, and HID lights = 22 poundsFuel Cell, 4.8 gallons of fuel, cover, first aid kit, and water = 22+32=54 pounds

Pelican rear case, laptop, Polaroid, CB antennae, and goodies = 26 pounds

Sidecases + contents for a week = 12+12+30=54 pounds

Total cargo weight = 156 pounds

I guess my point is that I HIGHLY suggest that anybody ordering a rear shock or having a Wilber resprung actually get out the bathroom scale and weigh at least their cargo. You may be surprised.

Rider and Gear (285) + Cargo (156) + Bike (642) = 1083 pounds! Who'd have thought I'd be tipping the 1/2 ton mark on a sport-tourer.

And if that seems high, I had a talk with Doug Chapman at WFO-5 and he went through several iterations of weighing things, getting honest with himself, and went with GPSuspensions over a year ago and says his Dreadnought FJR is closer to 1150 pounds with him on it.

I weighed all my gear when I rolled home after a 48-plus on a K11LT and I can not find that list :angry2:

Thanks for your list of weights, I'm about to send my forks in for the Soqui and a Penske is on the way. :D

Dave asked me my weight, and I also told him I'm going to have a full LD setup, IBR, etc after he asked me if I was going to have a fuel cell. B)

 
When I spoke to Dave, Unless I misunderstood him, He asked me my Un-geared body weight.

Dave if you need it with bike ladden - We need to Talk again.
He may have, but given that I have a remote preload on my Wilbers I will want to pay particular attention to this weight differential on the shock rebuild given my LD and rallying requirements. It doesn't necessarily apply if you're going new shocks.....just if you have an undersprung Wilbers.
Matt, A quick mental stab at your numbers, I'm guessing that your replacement spring is going to be in the 13.0-13.5 range.(I could be way off here, its early) 2 things will be important for you when trying to achieve balance between full rally setup and torn down.

Since I don't know where your at now, and not knowing how big a change we're talking about here, you may also need your shock re-valved for any significant changes?

Also, when the spring size is finally selected, depending on which Wilbers shock you have, (mine had all options including ride height adjustment) you may have a maximum range of only 8mm in which to adjust remote preload.

So your additional cargo weight required for rallying will be 156lbs, IMO you will not be able to successfully adjust for that much weight difference with only 8mm of remote preload and achieve perfect sag numbers on both ends of the weight scale. However, since you know you have to be able to carry this much extra weight, the priority must be for this first, and the lower weight has to become secondary.

With this in mind, I personally would request the following setup for my rear shock:

Ask that the replacement spring (whatever this is) is setup in such a way that with maximum remote preload (8mm?) added, gives you your required rally weight setup.

Request that whatever spring required to do this, is installed on your shock with the minimum amount of initial preload to achieve this. (very important for when it comes time to ride with the bike stripped down again) This will give you the best balance between performance and comfort.

Also, if you have the hi/low speed compression adjustment, request that the hi speed setting for rally weight be in the upper range of adjustment clicks. Then when you switch back to regular riding, you will have the entire range of hi speed compression to adjust out as much of the harsh bumpy feeling that you will encounter over potholes etc, due to the increased spring rate required for 156lb weight increase.

 
Matt, A quick mental stab at your numbers, I'm guessing that your replacement spring is going to be in the 13.0-13.5 range.(I could be way off here, its early) 2 things will be important for you when trying to achieve balance between full rally setup and torn down.
Thanks for honing things down to a point. What you say fills in some holes in my understanding of the process. Aim for the loaded amount and work back from there.

I think the differential of 156 between fully loaded and unloaded is the most extreme case and probably closer to 120 as I almost always have the bags (12 each by my bathroom scale) on and about 12 pounds of tools. That might work better for the range of preload.

 
So does anybody got any good advice on shipping the forks? Where to get the right sized box? I know Iggy mentioned heading to Wally World, did you hit paydirt, Iggy? How much are these puppies costing to ship?

Hope to ship mine out sometime next week.

 
So does anybody got any good advice on shipping the forks? Where to get the right sized box? I know Iggy mentioned heading to Wally World, did you hit paydirt, Iggy? How much are these puppies costing to ship?
Hope to ship mine out sometime next week.
The UPS Store (AKA, Mail Boxes, Etc.) Just be prepared to bend over and grab your ankles, cuz they ain't cheap! But, they take care of everything for you, including the insurance, which I would recommend at this time of year. ;)

 
So does anybody got any good advice on shipping the forks? Where to get the right sized box? I know Iggy mentioned heading to Wally World, did you hit paydirt, Iggy? How much are these puppies costing to ship?
Hope to ship mine out sometime next week.

I took a box that came off the jobsite (Kohler toilet box) :dribble: :eek: and re-cut it to shape a box to fit both forks. Then, I cut another box and rolled each fork in it's own 'tube'. The 'tubes' are rough and triangular, so I think they will offer good protection. The boxes used are unusally thick.

 
[SIZE=14pt]THIS GROUP BUY ENDS TODAY, DEC 4, 2006![/SIZE]



You have until COB today (PST), Dec 4, 2006 to sign up to participate in this Group Buy!

Stats to date:

Eibach fork springs - 19 orders

Ohlins rear shock: 11 orders

Wilbers overhauls - 11 orders

Penske rear shock - 28 orders

Fork Rebuilds: - 49 orders

[SIZE=14pt]OFFICIAL PRICE MODEL AND SIGN-UP FORM LINK[/SIZE]

 
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So does anybody got any good advice on shipping the forks? Where to get the right sized box? I know Iggy mentioned heading to Wally World, did you hit paydirt, Iggy? How much are these puppies costing to ship?
Not so much. Finding a 40" long box for those forks was fairly futile. I gave up and got diddled by the UPS store since they were next door to where I had lunch on Thursday. Total cost to pack and ship 210 miles for forks and shock insured for $1400 was about $63. I think packing was $19 of that.

....Portland is totally downriver from me. Maybe I should have rigged up some pontoons and rafted those suckers down.

 
So does anybody got any good advice on shipping the forks? Where to get the right sized box? I know Iggy mentioned heading to Wally World, did you hit paydirt, Iggy? How much are these puppies costing to ship?
Not so much. Finding a 40" long box for those forks was fairly futile. I gave up and got diddled by the UPS store since they were next door to where I had lunch on Thursday. Total cost to pack and ship 210 miles for forks and shock insured for $1400 was about $63. I think packing was $19 of that.

....Portland is totally downriver from me. Maybe I should have rigged up some pontoons and rafted those suckers down.
Smitty141 suggested to me to use a hard rifle case for shipping my forks. Turns out I have a cheap one that I bought at a gun show for about $20. Smitty reports that he has shipped forks packed in a rifle case half dozen times with great success. Sounds like a terrific idea to me. Now for the shipping all the way out there from the corn belt... OUCH$$

 
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Smitty141 suggested to me to use a hard rifle case for shipping my forks. Turns out I have a cheap one that I bought at a gun show for about $20. Smitty reports that he has shipped forks packed in a rifle case half dozen times with great success. Sounds like a terrific idea to me.
Now that's the best tidbit I've heard on this forum in weeks! :clapping:

......now I wonder if Smitty141 also has a solution for a time machine .... :huh:

 
Smitty141 suggested to me to use a hard rifle case for shipping my forks. Turns out I have a cheap one that I bought at a gun show for about $20. Smitty reports that he has shipped forks packed in a rifle case half dozen times with great success. Sounds like a terrific idea to me.
Now that's the best tidbit I've heard on this forum in weeks! :clapping:

......now I wonder if Smitty141 also has a solution for a time machine .... :huh:

I have used the method for years, and never had anything damaged. Besure to wrap or cover your forks so they don't beat on each other in shipment. I also used zip tie's in the lock holes, and wrap packing tape around it in 3 places.

I have also used pvc pipe.. Cut it long enough to protect the slider part, and tape it so it cant slide off. Then put it in a box... This will protect the "shinny part" from a nick in shipping.

Ignacio, I will start working on the "Flux capacitor" for my time machine soon... :p

Good luck all.... Smitty :)

 
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