2005 engine swap options?

[faster675]

i downloaded fjrcomparo.pdf - it asks for a password when i try to open it. .. Anybody know it? And/or, what year engines are a direct swap for 2005?

 

[ionbeam]

Odd, I was able to view the PDF in Firefox. I was able to click the download icon in my internet browser and open the PDF on my computer without a password. Windoze 10, Firefox. Your system may vary.

Engines from 2001 to 2005 are plug 'n play. Some things changed from '06 and up, the Gen II engines can be used but there will be some minor fiddling, plus a different overall gear ratio -- Gen 1 = 2.773; Gen II 2.698. On the other hand, you would get a 590W charging system. IMO, go for a Gen I engine and you won't have to worry about someone trying to sell you an AE engine by 'mistake'

plus, it's a straight drop-in replacement.

If possible, the first best choice is to repair the engine you have instead of buying an unknown engine which may have even worse problems than the one you have now. I have discovered the hard way that a used engine guarantee only means the seller will take the engine back, it in no way is a statement of quality or functionality. If you personally know the history and condition of the replacement engine then that is a different story.

If you don't mind the asking, what has you inquiring about replacement engines?

 

[faster675]

... Because an engine swap is much cheaper than getting the transmission rebuilt again (2nd gear dogs went out in 2009 - and after another 30K miles, it has started doing the same thing again)

 

[faster675]

... And thank you for the info ionbeam!

I am using samsung tablet with android o.s. - which is asking for password. .. I will try again on the home pc

 

[Streethawk]

There's wisdom there. Having lived through that nightmare myself!

IMO, go for a Gen I engine and you won't have to worry about someone trying to sell you an AE engine by 'mistake'

plus, it's a straight drop-in replacement.

 

[RossKean]

While a used GenI engine might be lower cost than rebuilt transmission (especially if done by someone other than yourself), you run the considerable risk that the "new" engine has undisclosed issues. Even if it doesn't, 2nd gear may already be on the way out. If your original engine is reasonably low mileage, I would just fix it.

It appears that you are harder on 2nd gear than most people. What do you do differently to kill two transmissions during the bike's lifetime when most manage to get by on the original one? Habitual VERY hard acceleration in 2nd could be a contributing factor but even a few badly missed shifts could wipe it out. (Stop doing that!)

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Preload!

I also split my cases twice for 2nd gear.

 

[art miller]

Is very moderate preload bad?? I thought that was the solution to smooth shifts.

 

[TomInPA]

I generally preload the shifter with light pressure, and when the throttle matches the engine with slight clutch pull, it seems to slip much easier into gear without any noise or shock. This is wrong?

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Is very moderate preload bad?? I thought that was the solution to smooth shifts.

I generally preload the shifter with light pressure, and when the throttle matches the engine with slight clutch pull, it seems to slip much easier into gear without any noise or shock. This is wrong?

Preload is good! It makes a noticeable difference as yas have noticed. If, on the other hand you don't preload the shifter and stab it into the next higher gear forcefully (clutch or no clutch), most times the dogs and pockets line up AOK, but occasionally...sometimes they don't. And when they don't is when you end up bending the shift fork.

I wish bike manufacturers would give a better explanation of how to shift properly other than the extremely conservative shift schedule that they post in the owner's manual. If you were to look at a working cutaway of a motorcycle sequential transmission, and perhaps some worn parts you could visualize and identify for yourself what works as good shifting practice and what doesn't.

 

[wfooshee]

The neutral switch is different on Gen II bikes, as it's part of the gear indicator switch. The fuel rails are completely different, so you want the stuff off your Gen-I motor, don't try to use the Gen-II stuff just because it's already on there. It has to come off anyway to get it into the frame.

Mechanically, there's very little difference, but the fueling system is different, and that neutral switch. Oh, yeah, the speed sensor is different, and in a different place on the engine.

Stick with Gen I. RadioHowie may still have one that needs a cylinder head sitting in his garage. Don't know how often he's on here, though, since his accident. (He had a cam chain tensioner failure, with the associated valve damage, but if you're willing to put your head on his motor, I bet it would be cheap to get!!!!

 

[mech 1 twa]

I have a Gen II engine in my 05 . 07 engine installed

Speed sensor bolts into existing hole in lower case, no issues. Remove bolt, plug, install old speed sensor.

Finding neutral is not difficult. Gen I uses a switch in lower case, Gen II switch on side from shift shaft. You only need to cut 1 wire out from that 6 wire connector switch and connect it to old neutral wire. Its the BLACK one. Neutral switch functions. EASY

The left lower engine bracket is different. Small triangle part, case is different GEN I to II $15 part after that bolts up.

Gen II has a higher electrical output. I changed voltage/rec from 07 just to be safe. EBAY $ 50 Voltage/rec harness is the same just a little longer and it bolts to frame in Gen I standard location.

Speedometer is perfect, larger 190/50/ 17 with GPS. Standard tire will be a little off NOT much.

MUST use all of the original throttle bodies from old engine. Fuel supply, injectors are different GEN II

I did it in a weekend. Many more Years will drop in UP to 2014 maybe?