I've got a 2005 FJR that I purchased used and it has the OEM heated grips on it that no longer work. I have beenlooking for instructions on the installation so I can reverse them for removal but can't find them anywhere. Do these grips have their own throttle sleeve, or do they slide over the factory one. If over the factory sleeve then I can just try heating them up and removing them (but they look like they have glue on so may have to cut them). I'd rather put some more comfortable grips on since the heat doesn't work and don't want to use the grip buddies or grip puppies.
2005 OEM heated grip removal
- Thread starter tdperry
- Start date
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ionbeam
2 FUN
The left side grip slides directly over the metal handlebar. The right side slides over the plastic throttle tube.
On the bright side, someone may have installed the grips using hairspray or actual grip adhesive. This would let you work them off by slipping something under the grips. You can twist the left grip but be careful of the throttle side grip because you can damage the throttle tube or throttle cable. Because the heated grips have a hard core I haven't had much luck using compressed air from my high pressure/high flow tank.
On the other hand, someone may have used 2 part epoxy or other type elephant glue. If this is the case you are in for a workout getting them off. I don't know why some kits say to use such a permanent adhesive on what is probably not a permanent part. If it is hard epoxy you may have a chance using chemical warfare like acetone or MEK but take excessive care to cover everything up because this would be death to paint and especially plastic. There is always the sawzall and dynamite.
Is there a chance that the grips can be fixed, or do they just have to go no matter what?
On the bright side, someone may have installed the grips using hairspray or actual grip adhesive. This would let you work them off by slipping something under the grips. You can twist the left grip but be careful of the throttle side grip because you can damage the throttle tube or throttle cable. Because the heated grips have a hard core I haven't had much luck using compressed air from my high pressure/high flow tank.
On the other hand, someone may have used 2 part epoxy or other type elephant glue. If this is the case you are in for a workout getting them off. I don't know why some kits say to use such a permanent adhesive on what is probably not a permanent part. If it is hard epoxy you may have a chance using chemical warfare like acetone or MEK but take excessive care to cover everything up because this would be death to paint and especially plastic. There is always the sawzall and dynamite.
Is there a chance that the grips can be fixed, or do they just have to go no matter what?
Very doubtful they can be fixed... I think there are shorts in the grips themselves. Looking at what was under there, it looked like superglue does when it's gotten old. My main concern was that it was all one unit like on the newer ones. I'm going to go ahead and order a G2 throttle tamer just to be on the safe side and not have to worry about it. I was really hoping I could get by with spending around $20 for grips instead of $20 for grips and another $70'ish for the G2.
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
The '05 doesn't need a throttle tamer. Save your money.
ionbeam
2 FUN
Indeed, a Gen I doesn't need a throttle tamer. The early Gen II had an eccentric throttle pulley that the G2 compensated for.
FWIW, the grips pretty much can't short, but they can open up. The grips should read around 8Ω each. The throttle grip can open right at the wire lead-in due to constant twisting. I have also found that the problem is frequently that one of the bullet connectors in the wiring harness of the grip kit is not making good contact. If the heated grips were intermittent before quitting the bullet connectors are a common cause. There are a number of connectors and it could be just about any one of them.
FWIW, the grips pretty much can't short, but they can open up. The grips should read around 8Ω each. The throttle grip can open right at the wire lead-in due to constant twisting. I have also found that the problem is frequently that one of the bullet connectors in the wiring harness of the grip kit is not making good contact. If the heated grips were intermittent before quitting the bullet connectors are a common cause. There are a number of connectors and it could be just about any one of them.
If you're gonna pull the old heated grips anyway, you might want to consider some cheapie heated elements - the Symtec Heat Demons. Just $45 (for the ATV applications, which I use) or $49 for the MC application (right element runs a bit cooler since it mates with a plastic, as opposed to metal, throttle tube). They only have off, high and low settings. Easy to install. For the money, very effective.
If I was going to have to replace the whole shebang from tearing it up, I was going to get something solid instead of plastic to replace it with.
I was able to get it off (and keep the white plastic sleeve intact) with application of a knife, some heat, then a narrow bladed screwdriver and some needle nose pliers.
Now, just got to order new grips.
I had heated grips on the Wing and never used them. I have some really nice wintertime gloves that I wear that also allows me to put one of the "hot pocket" warmers in them. Works out very nicely.
Thanks guys.. y'all confirmed what I thought it was and gave me the courage to do what I was going to at first.
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