2006 FJR-AE won't start

[qmotion]

Last weekend I had all my farkles installed at once. I figured it would make a much cleaner install and it did.

My install included:

Phillips HID

Moto lights

Hyper light leds

J&M CB-2003 CB/intercom and audio controller

Garmin 2820 navigation with XM radio

Passport 8500 radar detector

Datel digital volt meter

Blinder M-20 laser radar jammer

Corbin heated seats were wired

On the third day I noticed an eror code of "SH___47". I turned off the ignition waited a few minutes and it restarted and ran fine. I called the dealer and they informed me that the error code was a "no brake light signal" error. I was told to check the connection to the brake light relay and the harness.

Last night while it was running it just shut down, It wouldn't restart.

My installer informed me that he used a triggering relay that tied into the rear tail light. The relay then powers a Blueseas distribution block through the 70 amp relay which is wired directly to the battery. No other factory circuitry is used.

When the bike initially shut off I turned off the ignition switch and everything stay powered up. I ultimately had to disconnect the battery to shut everything down.

The turn signal, nuetral and low oil lights stay solidly lit. The fuel level bars flash on and off. The handle bar switch for the electronic shift doesn't activate. The foot shift switch doesn't work either.

The strange thing is all the farkles that were installed still work properly. No fuse in the distribution block is blown. I'm planning on towing the bike to the dealer on Monday or Tuesday.

I need as much insight as I can get to resolve this issue.

I checked the connector that should go to the brake light relay and it's solidly in place.

 

[ponyfool]

Take the fuse out of the line that goes from the battery to your relay (the one that powers the BlueSea box), thus disabling all of your new farkles and see what happens.

With you saying that the key didn't turn the bike electrical off, it would appear, in my opinion, that your new farkle set up is somehow keeping the bike powered up through another connection (not good).

But disconnecting the power to your new farkles will only get you half way there. You still need to identify which farkle is somehow tied into your bike's electrical.

Good luck!

 

[qmotion]

Well that was what happened initially. Since then the bike doesn't stay powered up with the ignition switch off. I'm wondering if a faulty ignition could be at least part of the problem.

 

[ELP_JC]

I don't know about the FJR, but many modern bikes have a sensing circuit on the brake lines to detect blown bulbs, so you shouldn't connect ANYTHING to a brake line on a modern bike, just to play it safe. On BMWs, if you do that, it wreaks all kinds of havoc.

I'd immediately relocate anything connected to the brake lines, and erase all codes on diagnostic mode #62, and try your luck again.

And as a side comment, I don't know if you tried your farkles all at once before your 'shut down' episode, but another very real possibility is you exceeded the alternator's output. My BMW had 840 watts, but I know the FJR has a lot less, but haven't checked (I don't have any electrical farkles). Modern FI systems are VERY sensitive to voltage. Good luck with your problem, and keep us posted.

JC

 

[qmotion]

I ordered the service manual today. The problems is it will take a week for them to get it. My fuel guage is flashing 8 times and I know the number of flashes has some significance for diagnostics. I thought it was posted some where in the forum what the diagnostic codes were and how to set and reset them.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Well I can say with considerable certainty. It isn't anything to do with your Hyperlights

ELP, How the hell you going to make these work w/out tapping into the brake light wires??????????? I've used them on several bike prior to the fjr and know several members here use 'em without fault or fail on their bikes. I'm assuming by "lines" you mean wires. Where else you going to tap in?

:jester:

 

[ELP_JC]

ELP, How the hell you going to make these work w/out tapping into the brake light wires???????????

Sorry for my poor writing. Yes, you obviously have to 'tap' into the brakes, but what I meant was for signal to a relay only; get the load from the battery or another source, even if small.

But that was just a suggestion. The FJR might not even have brake light-bulb sensing capability, but I'm always a bit aprehensive about the brake circuit, that's all.

If you guys have had no problems with such installation on GenIIs, by all means, don't listen to me. I personally never tap into my brakes, even for signal; only use LED boards, or other devices (tail blazer, etc) that have the same electrical load as stock, just in case. Sorry for the confusion. Good evening folks.

JC

 

[radman]

May be related, may be coincidence. Quite a few 06's though have had ignition switches that released all their smoke, never to initiate starting sequence again. One day, all is fine, next day, nothin. If the farkles worked fine, and all was good, then suddenly zip, thats my #1 suspect, not the additions.

 

[c2insa]

farkle relay for switched power has some wires switched around and is always on.

 

[Yamalude]

I just bought an Autocom system for my FJR and while reading the installation manual last night, it recomends against tapping power off your brake lights if your motocycle has ABS.

This might be the issue with your wiring scheme.

 

[qmotion]

The relay was run off the tail light and not the brake light.

 

[bramfrank]

Looking at the troubleshooting guide in the tech manual for the AE: 'starter motor fails to turn':

1. Check fuses

2. Check battery

3. Check starter motor operation (Page 8-228) if OK, skip to step 5)

4. Check starter motor (page 5-42)

5. Check relay unit (Page 8-221)

6. Check relay unit diode (Page 8-225)

7. Check starter relay (Page 8-221)

8. CHECK THE BRAKE LIGHT RELAYS (Page 8-221) <-------

9. Check the YCC-S control relay (Page 8-221)

10. Check the main switch (Page 8-221)

11. Check engine stop switch (Page 8-221)

12. Check neutral switch (Page 8-221)

13. Check sidestand sqwitch (Page 8-221)

14. Check front brake switch (Page 8-221)

15. Check rear brake switch (Page 8-221)

16. Checkl ths start switch (Page 8-221)

17. Check the entire starting system wiring. (Page 8-19)

.

.

Replace the MCU or diode 1.

I would start by disconnecting the relay the installer wired to your back light. There is a diode wired in that the bike uses to verify that the relay is working properly - it may well be that he wired it up wrong.

Then pull one of the connections to the battery, then turn the key to 'ON' to discharge whatever can be discharged and reconnect the battery after 10 minutes. If the bike starts you should relocate your relay trigger to something like the windshield retractor circuit - the connector for that is up front, almost on the centerline of the bike. Unplugging the connector will have the benefit of eliminating the retract function. Alternatively you can wire up to a side marker light - the wiring for THAT is pretty simple to locate.

I agree with Scott (Ponyfool) who suggested also pulling the fuses on your fuse block. Can't hurt. But I suspect that it is more likely that the relay your mech installed is wired wrong or that the bike is sensitive to the tap point he used. The relay might now be wired to latch on or something like that. It is also possible that you have one of your farkles feeding power to the fuse block which in turn goes to the bike power if the conenctions are messed up. Can't tell without being there.

 

[qmotion]

Looking at the troubleshooting guide in the tech manual for the AE: 'starter motor fails to turn':
1. Check fuses

2. Check battery

3. Check starter motor operation (Page 8-228) if OK, skip to step 5)

4. Check starter motor (page 5-42)

5. Check relay unit (Page 8-221)

6. Check relay unit diode (Page 8-225)

7. Check starter relay (Page 8-221)

8. CHECK THE BRAKE LIGHT RELAYS (Page 8-221) <-------

9. Check the YCC-S control relay (Page 8-221)

10. Check the main switch (Page 8-221)

11. Check engine stop switch (Page 8-221)

12. Check neutral switch (Page 8-221)

13. Check sidestand sqwitch (Page 8-221)

14. Check front brake switch (Page 8-221)

15. Check rear brake switch (Page 8-221)

16. Checkl ths start switch (Page 8-221)

17. Check the entire starting system wiring. (Page 8-19)

.

.

Replace the MCU or diode 1.

I would start by disconnecting the relay the installer wired to your back light. There is a diode wired in that the bike uses to verify that the relay is working properly - it may well be that he wired it up wrong.

Then pull one of the connections to the battery, then turn the key to 'ON' to discharge whatever can be discharged and reconnect the battery after 10 minutes. If the bike starts you should relocate your relay trigger to something like the windshield retractor circuit - the connector for that is up front, almost on the centerline of the bike. Unplugging the connector will have the benefit of eliminating the retract function. Alternatively you can wire up to a side marker light - the wiring for THAT is pretty simple to locate.

I agree with Scott (Ponyfool) who suggested also pulling the fuses on your fuse block. Can't hurt. But I suspect that it is more likely that the relay your mech installed is wired wrong or that the bike is sensitive to the tap point he used. The relay might now be wired to latch on or something like that. It is also possible that you have one of your farkles feeding power to the fuse block which in turn goes to the bike power if the conenctions are messed up. Can't tell without being there.

It seems that I really can't do much without that service manual. I'm wondering what the 8 flashes from the fuel gauge signify. I'll bet that the self dianostics is right on if I knew what the codes and flashes were.

 

[bramfrank]

It seems that I really can't do much without that service manual. I'm wondering what the 8 flashes from the fuel gauge signify. I'll bet that the self dianostics is right on if I knew what the codes and flashes were.

That fuel gauge flash means that there's a problem with the sender, according to the documentation I read - however it doesn't say '8 and only 8', just that it flashes.

The manual can't possibly cover all the issues with a bike like this.

 

[qmotion]

Thanks everybody. Well I did everything that I could. The dealer has to solve this one.

 

[qmotion]

Just to bring you all up to date.

It appears that the yamaha dealer's tech was disconnecting a ground to the chasis which had about 5 satelite groudns connected to it and all of a sudden everything started workin. Keep in mine this was when he disconnected the grounds which should have been connected. When he reconnected the grounds everything still remained working. The dealer never foiund a short circuit and/or melted connectors. After almost taking almost all the wiring apart they found nothing but everything works now. So, they decided to add additional chasis ground to all the stuff that was grounded from that harness. The main chasis ground should be able to handle 90 amps of current now. The scary part is I feel that it can happen again since no actual cuase was found. So the bottom line is after 3 weeks of looking no problem was found but my bike is now fixed.

 

[clutchless1]

Inside the fuse panel (Yamaha's panel, not the new one) check the signaling fuse (it's a 15 amp fuse) see if that fuse blew first, if so replace it with a 15 amp fuse. Then Disconnect the main feed to the new fuse panel powering the new farkles. Then try the bike to see what it does.

I recently had a problem with mine that sounds like yours may be going through right now (but I didn't have anything wrong with any brake lights, and I didn't install any farkles either) but the basic electrical problem sounds like the one I had.

One other thing, if you decide to add anything else do them one at a time and try it for a week or two. This way if you have a problem you know where to start checking and you won't have so many areas to check at the same time. This could end up being another ignition switch failure and with all of the add on's it may get you to think it has to be one of them causing problems.

I learned this lesson myself while working on elevator controllers, I had replaced 40 or so new relays at one time, so when I had a problem I ended up checking each one until I found the culprit (the second to the last relay I installed) In the future I always replaced them one at a time, and then ran the elevator to be sure all was ok before installing another. We all live and learn.

Good Luck

 

[qmotion]

It appears that the problem was resolved. There is a satelite ground connecter under the left side panel and under the front seat. Apparently there are about 5 grounds that joins at one connector that then goes to the frame for ground. Those grounds are not heavy enough. For all that run auxilary electrical componets and are having all sorts of stranger error codes I highly recommend seriously increasing the guage wire to all the grounds to that connector and also run an alternate ground to another location. It's identified as a white connector behind the reservoir under the left side panel. On my 2006 FJR AE there were a couple unused pin connectors that can be used to run additional wire. It appears that some of the voltage from my accesories was cycling back through that ground point.