2006 Subframe Crack

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Hi,

I had mine welded up by company that specialised in alloy welding, still good after 30K Kms.

I never had the top box loaded up, only had the basics in there, maybe 3 – 5 kgs all up.

I'm sure it was the H&B top box “flopping” around that cause the metal fatigue.

I now have a Givi box and a SR 357 mount (Gen2), much better.

Story here on the Aus Forum https://www.forum.fjr13.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2050&hilit=+sub+frame

Cheers

 
I am going to start looking for welders this week, and buck myself up to actually disassemble the rear-end. Having never done much wrenching in my life, it should be interesting as to how bad I could possibly screw up. I have the service manual, it's all greek to me, but I figure if I stare at it long enough, maybe I'll begin to get it.

 
I am going to start looking for welders this week, and buck myself up to actually disassemble the rear-end. Having never done much wrenching in my life, it should be interesting as to how bad I could possibly screw up. I have the service manual, it's all greek to me, but I figure if I stare at it long enough, maybe I'll begin to get it.
I highly suggest taking lots of pictures with a digital camera during disassembly! Makes reassembly MUCH easier. :yahoo:

 
Having never done much wrenching in my life, it should be interesting as to how bad I could possibly screw up. I have the service manual, it's all greek to me, but I figure if I stare at it long enough, maybe I'll begin to get it.
I think the critical parts are the gnarly loc-tited fasteners that attach to the frame...keep those bolts straight and loctite them when you reassemble.

Otherwise, it's mostly like peeling an onion where lots of little plastic rivnuts are easy to forget where they go. The tray, air filter box, computer, and ABS also get a little involved.

Think baggies and nice table to lay parts out.

 
Having never done much wrenching in my life, it should be interesting as to how bad I could possibly screw up. I have the service manual, it's all greek to me, but I figure if I stare at it long enough, maybe I'll begin to get it.
I think the critical parts are the gnarly loc-tited fasteners that attach to the frame...keep those bolts straight and loctite them when you reassemble.

Otherwise, it's mostly like peeling an onion where lots of little plastic rivnuts are easy to forget where they go. The tray, air filter box, computer, and ABS also get a little involved.

Think baggies and nice table to lay parts out.

A HUGE +1.

It's so easy to start taking part the bits and pieces on a first time disassembly to later realize "I should have organized better.

Photos of each component/layer of assembled, then disassembled. Then baggy the parts and fasteners. Use a sharpe to make little reminder notes on the baggy (ie. small fasteners bottom, large on top).

I also run with a Premier rack and Givi 55 with Admore lights in the aft postion. I am really getting concerned seeing these threads. I typically use it for gear storage when parked on daily basis.

Did you find the frame crack by chance, or did the bike warn you of the issue?

 
Having never done much wrenching in my life, it should be interesting as to how bad I could possibly screw up. I have the service manual, it's all greek to me, but I figure if I stare at it long enough, maybe I'll begin to get it.
I think the critical parts are the gnarly loc-tited fasteners that attach to the frame...keep those bolts straight and loctite them when you reassemble.

Otherwise, it's mostly like peeling an onion where lots of little plastic rivnuts are easy to forget where they go. The tray, air filter box, computer, and ABS also get a little involved.

Think baggies and nice table to lay parts out.
+1 along with the large table use a muffin pan for your nuts and bolts and all your plastic buttons, it's a good way to seperate parts for each sections, you can mark with tape on each cup to remind you where they go. Taking before pictures and while taking apart helps to refer to later.

 
I say baggies, even though I've not actually used baggies.

But I have used muffin pans.

Muffin pans can be bumped. It's not pretty.

 
I say baggies, even though I've not actually used baggies.

But I have used muffin pans.

Muffin pans can be bumped. It's not pretty.
I now keep my muffin pan on a tool cart, I have kicked it once and your right not pretty, use what ever works best for you to keep track of what parts goes where.

 
I had to kill one of my children in front of the other two to convince them to stay the hell away from my bike during my motor replacement. Worked fine, plus gave me more farkle funding.

 
Thanks for all the tips. Today is the day. I am just going to go slow, and follow advice: baggies, pics etc. The service manual seems marginally helpful unless I am missing something. There's a first time for everything!

To an earlier question, i discovered it while grabbing the handrails (incorrectly) to get it on the centerstand. It felt loose and crunchy and I immediately suspected this.

 
I use heavy 4 mil baggies. You can wipe off the Sharpie note with Acetone and reuse them... BTW, Coleman fuel (white gas) makes a great degreaser/solvent cleaner.

 
I had a bit of a sub frame crack on my '07.

bike_rear_top.jpg


A bit of J.B. Weld and duct tape made it good as new!

 
You can wipe off the Sharpie note with Acetone and reuse them... BTW, Coleman fuel (white gas) makes a great degreaser/solvent cleaner.
You might want to try isopropyl alcohol to wipe off the Sharpie markings. I'm sure acetone works, but it's nasty stuff and easily absorbed into the bloodstream through the skin. Plus, most gloves won't protect you, including nitrile gloves.

If you don't have a can of Coleman fuel/white gas/naptha, kerosene is another great cleaner/degreaser. With any of these, wear nitrile gloves. Gloves

I'm a fan of Ziploc snack bags. The small size is usually perfect because I usually keep the fasteners with each part, sometimes marking them with a Sharpie if there are lots of parts and snack bags.

 
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