2007 check engine light and code 11

[fjrbrad]

Finally took it to the dealership and there it sits for the past 3 days. They are calling me telling me everything I already know and say tomorrow they are going to call Yamaha if they can't diagnose it. Started with bike running fine, gassed up and upon restarting, the check engine light came on. Still ran fine and no other issues. Drove it home and went thru the diagnostic check still nothing except the code 11 shows up in the LCD screen when the key is turned on. Code 11 from what I read says the bike should not run at all, and it starts and runs perfect. Bought and installed new battery as I was still on the original 2007 battery. Still nothing. Code 11 is a cylinder position sensor from what I read. I am getting a little frustrated with the dealer telling me everything I already know, and thinking that disconnecting the battery is going to solve the problem. Any thoughts?

 

[Niehart]

Make sure you foot brake pedal is not sticking. That will throw the same code on the AE's. Sound too simple but I have seen this 3 or 4 times.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Yet another reason to have a left hand lever,

Sorry, had to mention it,

Dave

 

[audiowize]

The manual specs 420-569 Ohms as the CPS resistance. It will take a few minutes to check that. If that resistance measures well, one would then unplug the harness where it goes into the ECU and attempt to measure that same resistance with the sensor plugged in.

If that all goes well, you'd want to try a different ECU to rule all that out.

If the ECU swap doesn't work, then you'd throw your hands up in the air and call Yamaha.

(In other words, the dealer should at least be able to tell you what's right, which qualifies their current decision)

 

[radiummadman]

most dealers are clueless

 

[ionbeam]

I'm thinking that if the Code 11 were a solid, steady fault your FJR wouldn't run. I suspect that for some reason the ECU saw a quick transient fault with the Cyl ID signal or had a read error and stored the error code in memory even though the 'error' no longer exists. Someone needs to go into the history and delete the code and see if it comes back. As long as it doesn't come back there is nothing to troubleshoot and no fault to find.

 

[audiowize]

I'm thinking that if the Code 11 were a solid, steady fault your FJR wouldn't run.

I think the engine can run based on the last known position in memory (sort of like a safe mode). The manual also indicates that the bike will run with this error code.

 

[fjrbrad]

When I spoke to the dealer on Friday afternoon he said they tried to go in and access the history and could not, nor were they able to delete the code. I tried myself before I took it there and couldn't either, so I thought they knew something I didn't. Apparently not.

 

[Niehart]

Make sure you foot brake pedal is not sticking. That will throw the same code on the AE's. Sound too simple but I have seen this 3 or 4 times.

fjrbrad, check the dang foot brake pedal. If it sticks at all, it throws that code.

 

[ionbeam]

I don't have a FSM with me, but I believe this code is Unable/Unable to Start or Drive. The point was to see if the code came back after it was cleared because a true fault will always reset itself back ON. There have been some others that were unable to clear codes from history with Tip Over being one of the popular codes that couldn't be cleared. This is one of those things that are hard to diagnose 'over the phone' and it really helps to get your hands on it.

The error code wasn't proceeded with a SH was it? Like SH_11? (Dunno, fishing here, if the code starts with a SH it is an AE shift error code which is a different animal from a normal ER 11.)

Edit to add:

What Niehart said, do this firstest thing.

 

[fjrbrad]

It is locked in the dealers shop right now so I cant get at it as they are closed today. As soon as you turn the key to the on position before pushing the start button, the number 11 shows in the LCD. Not proceeded with an SH at all. I am going to drop by the dealer first thing tomorrow and have them check the rear brake pedal. I did put new front brake pads on the bike over the winter, but I don't think this would have any bearing on anything? Thanks for everyones help, I appreciate the input.

 

[audiowize]

I don't have a FSM with me, but I believe this code is Unable/Unable to Start or Drive. The point was to see if the code came back after it was cleared because a true fault will always reset itself back ON.

I think this should settle the argument that the bike shouldn't run without this sensor - it will, this is a screen shot from the manual.

If the sensor is f'd up, as soon as you flip the key, the bike is going to know it, and the error is going to pop up. It may not be that you can't clear it, but rather that the computer sees it immediately and pops the code right back up. (Try unplugging the coolant temperature sensor for reference to see how the ECU/gauge cluster behaves)

If your dealer hasn't tested the sensor, have the bike towed to another dealer...

 

[ionbeam]

These are two shots I took from my manuals.

This is from the '06 FSM which is a Gen II like the OP has.

And, this is from my '04 manual, a later Gen I than a '03.

I think this should settle the argument that the bike shouldn't run without this sensor - it will, this is a screen shot from the manual.

I do agree that if the code is hard it will reload into memory when the engine is started. The cylinder ID signal is dynamic, the ECU won't know it's bad unless it is totally out of range when the key is first turned on. I'm of the opinion that checking the cylinder Identification Sensor with a volt meter is better than an ohm meter because it confirms the ground and reference voltage from the ECU is good, as well as the returned sensor signal.

All this, right after trying Niehart;s brake pedal suggestion

 

[mcatrophy]

The error code may be thrown immediately the key is turned on if the CPU measures the electrical connection to the sensor (whether or not it does I don't know).

Just a comment on the manual saying able or unable to start or run, I've found that in some cases the bike hasn't read the manual, so I'm not surprised if it will run when it shouldn't or vice versa.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Is it possible that with no resistance it will not start/run, but with some resistance out of normal range it will start/run....... as I interpret it, using some default value programmed into the ECU for such event??? In any case, after checking the brake pedal, checking the sensor is in order.

Brad, changing the front brake pads will have affected the rear brake pedal when you pushed the caliper piston back in (lower half of right caliper) on the linked brakes. After the brake job, you would have had to push the rear brake pedal down to restore braking on the front, may have travelled further than normal for that first push and got stuck? Coulda happened if the brake pedal mechanism has never been apart/cleaned/lubed.

 

[mcatrophy]

Not sure why the brakes are suspect. A sticking rear brake will show up as a blinking ABS light after the bike is moving, it will throw an SH__47 code on the OP's AE variant. BTDT.
(Click on image for larger view)


Nothing to do with a non-SH__xx error code 11.

 

[fjrbrad]

Hey Ray, hope you are doing well. The pedal has never apart or lubed. Now that I think of it, when I pulled into the gas station I did brake relatively hard, probably the hardest since the brake job. I have sent this info over to the dealer and they are working on it, still. Hopefully good news at some point today. Thanks again everyone for all the input.

 

[fjrbrad]

Just talked to the dealer. They checked the cylinder position sensor and said it wasn't functioning properly. They have ordered a new one at $141 and are HOPING this will fix the problem. Fingers crossed. They said the rear brake pedal was fine. I really don't have a lot of confidence in what they are doing, or how they are going about things. Seems I get far more precise information from the people on the forum. Thanks again.