2007 FJR1300A

[Moses2]

I've just purchased a 2007 FJR with 36k. One owner bike. Looks great, and it appears to have been maintained. While I don't have the documents, he has shared with me the wheres and whens of services performed, at the dealership here in FL where he purchased the bike. A friend shared a number of problems I should be ready to experience, including references to electrical 'spiders' and an assortment of catastrophic gremlins. The previous owner said he didn't experience even a blown fuse in his years of touring with this bike. I just finished all scheduled maintenance on my 2013 Honda ST1300PA, finding it pretty user friendly to work on, selling it with complete confidence it's new owner would enjoy many miles. Riding this FJR for a couple hours back from the original owners, I found it to be very smooth (and as hot temperature wise as the ST) with plenty of power. Was hoping for less heat from the engine. Needs a new front tire, the gas gauge is flashing 8 times in cycle(even after fueling) and the former owner said this is a new event, but the bike has sat for a year+. Has a lowering kit on it, which I adjusted up (couldn't get the bike on the center stand) but other than that, I would just like to go through and change the fluids. Looking for help here, and will check into any videos available. It seems you have to remove the rear tire to change the front? Anyway, I am looking for some encouragement from experience here, and hoping I did not invest poorly. I think the bike looks cool (though runs pretty darned hot), and ran well on the way home. The previous owner is a nice enough guy, and I believe him when he says he has had not troubles at all with the bike. Thanks for all your help.

15 Complaintsfor 2007 YAMAHA FJR1300
FILTER COMPLAINTS BY AFFECTED COMPONENTS
All (15)ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (11)EXTERIOR LIGHTING (1)FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE (2)POWER TRAIN (2)
April 20, 2012 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10455852
Components: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE
July 20, 2011 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10413801
Components: EXTERIOR LIGHTING, ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
May 11, 2011 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10400057
Components: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
April 7, 2011 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10395144
Components: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
February 21, 2011 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10383890
Components: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
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2007YAMAHA FJR1300

 

[RossKean]

I sold my 2007 a couple years ago with 185,000 miles on the clock... (Still runs fine)

Biggest issue is electrical grounds - multi-wire connectors called "spiders" might be problematic (but fixable).  Tons to read on this forum.  There was a recall that addressed the worst of these - the so-called S4.  Some others not covered by recall but you can get help here if you run into issues.

There was a recall for the ignition switch.

There was a recall to replace the ECU - issue with drivability under certain circumstances when changing altitude.  There is also some issues with fueling at low throttle openings.  There were some band-aid fixes for this (Power Commander and a throttle tube with a different cam profile) but recently "Ivan" has come up with an ECU reflash for Gen II FJRs that deals with this and more.  (Should fix the altitude issue as well)

https://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/

Make sure the grounding connector and the ignition switch recalls were done.  Get the Ivan flash.

If the cam chain tensioner is original, you should look at replacing it.  Partway through the 2007 model year, they came up with an improved version after seeing some failures which essentially destroyed engines.  The newer CCT has a blue or green dot on the side.  At 36,000 miles, you are about due for a valve clearance check.  If it hasn't been done, do the CCT replacement at the same time.

Ergonomically, the seat is probably the worst issue.   Windshield replacement might be worth considering.  

Nice bike at unbelievably low mileage.  Take care of it and it will last a very long time.  (Best color ever and only produced the one year.)

Bike isn't especially hot unless some insulation has been removed.

Don't have to remove the rear wheel to change the front.

 

[Mossyrocks13k]

...

Don't have to remove the rear wheel to change the front.

Ok, maybe I'm dense today.  WTF??

2007 with 105k no issue miles.  Also, definitely get the valve clearance done, the first one is the most important.

 

[RossKean]

Ok, maybe I'm dense today.  WTF??

Don't know - I was responding to a comment made by OP.

 

[rbentnail]

 the gas gauge is flashing 8 times in cycle(even after fueling) and the former owner said this is a new event,

Uh oh, prepare yourself.  The 8-flash-cycling gas gauge is one of the warning signs I got before my S4 ground spider gave up completely. 

 

[RossKean]

Uh oh, prepare yourself.  The 8-flash-cycling gas gauge is one of the warning signs I got before my S4 ground spider gave up completely. 

A possibility for sure but I would first check the two connectors that go to the bottom of the fuel tank and make sure they are both secure.

For ground failures, there are a bunch of odd electrical anomalies.  Including malfunctioning windshield adjustment, both turn signal indicators lit, high beam indicator on, glove box solenoid not working, failure to start etc.

 

[Moses2]

I sold my 2007 a couple years ago with 185,000 miles on the clock... (Still runs fine)

Biggest issue is electrical grounds - multi-wire connectors called "spiders" might be problematic (but fixable).  Tons to read on this forum.  There was a recall that addressed the worst of these - the so-called S4.  Some others not covered by recall but you can get help here if you run into issues.

There was a recall for the ignition switch.

There was a recall to replace the ECU - issue with drivability under certain circumstances when changing altitude.  There is also some issues with fueling at low throttle openings.  There were some band-aid fixes for this (Power Commander and a throttle tube with a different cam profile) but recently "Ivan" has come up with an ECU reflash for Gen II FJRs that deals with this and more.  (Should fix the altitude issue as well)

https://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/

Make sure the grounding connector and the ignition switch recalls were done.  Get the Ivan flash.

If the cam chain tensioner is original, you should look at replacing it.  Partway through the 2007 model year, they came up with an improved version after seeing some failures which essentially destroyed engines.  The newer CCT has a blue or green dot on the side.  At 36,000 miles, you are about due for a valve clearance check.  If it hasn't been done, do the CCT replacement at the same time.

Ergonomically, the seat is probably the worst issue.   Windshield replacement might be worth considering.  

Nice bike at unbelievably low mileage.  Take care of it and it will last a very long time.  (Best color ever and only produced the one year.)

Bike isn't especially hot unless some insulation has been removed.

Don't have to remove the rear wheel to change the front.

Ok. Thank you all. The original owner said the valve clearance check had been performed at 24k. I will correspond with him regarding the ECU and ignition switch recalls. The windshield has been replaced with an aftermarket that is a little wider at the base , and the seat has a gel insert which I found ok after the 150 miles home on it. I'll inquire also about the CCT replacement. 2 videos i watched illustrated removing the rear wheel for front wheel removal,  to pitch the bike backwards. This bike is new to me, so I'm hoping for some mentors here, learning to make this bike safe and fun for me, or whoever I pass it along to. My first targets are the front tire, brake fluid flush and engine oil. I plan on using Mobil 1 high mileage for the engine. All advice appreciated. 

 

[rbentnail]

A possibility for sure but I would first check the two connectors that go to the bottom of the fuel tank and make sure they are both secure.

For ground failures, there are a bunch of odd electrical anomalies.  Including malfunctioning windshield adjustment, both turn signal indicators lit, high beam indicator on, glove box solenoid not working, failure to start etc.

True, what you list are for when the ground spider actually failures.  BTDT.  I'm saying that I randomly had subtle, weird indications indications that it was coming in the months leading up to the failure, the 8 second flashing gas gauge being one of them.

 

[RossKean]

True, what you list are for when the ground spider actually failures.  BTDT.  I'm saying that I randomly had subtle, weird indications indications that it was coming in the months leading up to the failure, the 8 second flashing gas gauge being one of them.

Did that persist or did it come and go?

Not one that I had heard of but I would certainly watch out for any electrical anomalies.  These are all fixable although grounding issues have damaged wiring harnesses.  I had the recall done on the S4 on my '07 but still got bit twice.  One other "spider" (S7?) and a ground in a non-spider connector.

To the OP, I wouldn't worry about it too much.  Just keep an eye on it and read up on it - tons of info on this forum.

 

[Moses2]

Ok, maybe I'm dense today.  WTF??

2007 with 105k no issue miles.  Also, definitely get the valve clearance done, the first one is the most important.

Thanks Mossyrocks13k. Sorry about the rear wheel thing. Original owner says valves were checked.

 

[Moses2]

Uh oh, prepare yourself.  The 8-flash-cycling gas gauge is one of the warning signs I got before my S4 ground spider gave up completely. 

Thanks rbentnail. Went through the post. I find this a bit intimidating,  but I bought the bike before researching and was just thinking I'd do an oil change and bleed the brakes. The flashing gauge has me thinking the worst. I want to make sure its not going to leave me waiting for a ride home or that it dies at some critical moment, so I want to look at these connections. It looks like the bodywork and tank have to come off for me to inspect the wiring.  Any video or links you can share? 

 

[Moses2]

Did that persist or did it come and go?

Not one that I had heard of but I would certainly watch out for any electrical anomalies.  These are all fixable although grounding issues have damaged wiring harnesses.  I had the recall done on the S4 on my '07 but still got bit twice.  One other "spider" (S7?) and a ground in a non-spider connector.

To the OP, I wouldn't worry about it too much.  Just keep an eye on it and read up on it - tons of info on this forum.

Thank you RossKean

 

[rbentnail]

Did that persist or did it come and go?

Not one that I had heard of but I would certainly watch out for any electrical anomalies.  These are all fixable although grounding issues have damaged wiring harnesses.  I had the recall done on the S4 on my '07 but still got bit twice.  One other "spider" (S7?) and a ground in a non-spider connector.

To the OP, I wouldn't worry about it too much.  Just keep an eye on it and read up on it - tons of info on this forum.

Flashing fuel gauge, fast starter syndrome when completely cold, and sometimes a click instead of a start- all came and went so it was nearly impossible to trace down at the time.  When my S4 instantly quit conducting & the bik did nothing did all the puzzle pieces fall into place. 

Thanks rbentnail. Went through the post. I find this a bit intimidating,  but I bought the bike before researching and was just thinking I'd do an oil change and bleed the brakes. The flashing gauge has me thinking the worst. I want to make sure its not going to leave me waiting for a ride home or that it dies at some critical moment, so I want to look at these connections. It looks like the bodywork and tank have to come off for me to inspect the wiring.  Any video or links you can share? 

Yes, but.....

Using this diagram for part names -> https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fjr1300a-fjr13aw

The 4 dash panels, the left side cowl assy- that's the piece the turn signal is on- and the small left side cover where the air filter is get removed as well as lifting the tank.  The tank does not have to come off for inspection though it's better for me to take it off when performing maintenance.  Below are a couple links of downloadable Adobe pdf files you may fine helpful.  And I'm going to send you a Private Message (PM).

2007 Owners Manual -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/slichey6joevoje/2007 FJR Owners Manual.pdf?dl=0

2006 Plastics removal.  Minor differences for 2007 but useful nonetheless -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tlfvv03xc2f4lb3/Gen 2 Plastics Removal.pdf?dl=0

 

[Moses2]

Flashing fuel gauge, fast starter syndrome when completely cold, and sometimes a click instead of a start- all came and went so it was nearly impossible to trace down at the time.  When my S4 instantly quit conducting & the bik did nothing did all the puzzle pieces fall into place. 

Yes, but.....

Using this diagram for part names -> https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fjr1300a-fjr13aw

The 4 dash panels, the left side cowl assy- that's the piece the turn signal is on- and the small left side cover where the air filter is get removed as well as lifting the tank.  The tank does not have to come off for inspection though it's better for me to take it off when performing maintenance.  Below are a couple links of downloadable Adobe pdf files you may fine helpful.  And I'm going to send you a Private Message (PM).

2007 Owners Manual -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/slichey6joevoje/2007 FJR Owners Manual.pdf?dl=0

2006 Plastics removal.  Minor differences for 2007 but useful nonetheless -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tlfvv03xc2f4lb3/Gen 2 Plastics Removal.pdf?dl=0

Thank you.

 

[Moses2]

Well, tupper  wear is off, inspected the S4, and no evidence of anything getting cooked. Removed and reconnected the 2 plugs in the bottom of the tank but still 8 flashes cycle. Is the fuel sensor attached to the pump? While I have the tank up I thought I should inspect it. Is there some special turn to get this out of the tank? Removed the 6bolts for the clamp, and it starts out,but then hangs up.

 

[infrared]

Moses2,

You can call the Yamaha mothership directly at 1-800-962-7926.  Give them your VIN, and they will check the status of any and all recalls on your bike. 

Factory recalls are free maintenance.

    :coolsmiley02:    

.

 

[Moses2]

Moses2,

You can call the Yamaha mothership directly at 1-800-962-7926.  Give them your VIN, and they will check the status of any and all recalls on your bike. 

Factory recalls are free maintenance.

    :coolsmiley02:    

.

Thanks infared. I called this morning,  and there are no recalls on my vin#.

 

[Moses2]

Thanks mcatrophy. What I did to support my tank was to use a ratchet strap. Placing a towel over the tank, hooking the coated hook of the strap into one of the tanks bolt holes, running the strap on the towel toward the rear top luggage rack, where it fed into the ratchet end that I hooked the insulated hook to. I then just ratched it snug to hold the tank up. I have removed and then reseated both plugs on the bottom of the tank, while it still had 2-3 gallons of gas in it. Turned the key back on, and the gas gauge still flashed 8 times (about once a second) showing a full tank(all segments) then pausing for about two seconds before starting again. I have since drained the tank, and was attempting to remove the fuel pump/sensor from the tank while in that position, but with the clamp ring removed, it only freely drops an inch or so. Gently rotating it doesn't seem to help, or find a better position. I had removed the engine heat shield to view th S4 connection,  which looks fine on the outside, with no evidence of heat on the cap or the wires going into it. I was attempting to remove the cap to look inside, but such a Dickens to try to hold and release, at least with the tank on. I dont quite see how I could open that connection even with the tank off. Maybe with some forceps and a pick. Do I have to take all these spiders apart to verify their integrity?? I had my vin# run, and it was not on a recall list. I truly want to like this bike with 36k on the clock and pretty clean,but we are off to a bad start. Thank you for your help, as this is a bit overwhelming

 

[Moses2]

With the key on engine off in its present state, the signals, headlight, 4ways, trip meters/reset, clock/reset, all work. I did find something odd when riding the bike home after purchase in that it seemed I couldn't reset the trip meters while the bike was running. When I got home, 2 hours of riding some high speeds , I shut the bike off, turned on the key without starting and both trip meters reset without a problem. It starts,  and sounds healthy. As i mentioned earlier, the bike sat for 2 years with about 2 gallons or so of fuel in it. I say that because when I went to look at it, I remarked about the flashing gauge and the then owner thought it must need fuel. It only took 2 or so gallons to fill it. I have since talked with the previous owner who says this flashing condition was not happening when he put the bike away.