2008 ABS brake bleed sequence?

[jmgrif]

I thought I had bookmarked this procedure from an earlier search? Now I can't find it! I did a brake bleed two years ago and it will probably be obvious when I get my bike out from under wraps in a week or so but... I like the reassurance of seeing it done especially in picture form.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Here's a couple older threads. Procedure isn't too bad, just take your time and watch for air bubbles.

Thread #1

Thread #2

--G

 

[Donal]

The basic procedure is:

Use a syringe (or something like it) to remove all the old fluid from the master reservoir.

Refill with clean (new) fluid.

Bleed the front left calliper (only one nipple) and right calliper (upper nipple).

Then bleed the rear/linked system by starting at the front right calliper (lower nipple), then the rear brake calliper nipple.

If you are using something like a vacuum system make sure the reservoir level doesn't drop too low in the reservoir at any time.

Hope that makes sense

Don

 

[jmgrif]

Thanks guys! I recently bought a "One man brake bleed kit" which I think is worth the 10 bucks! Clear plastic hose with a one way check valve at the one end. Just place check valve end into mason jar - crack the bleeder and then I can keep an eye on the reservoir as it goes down! The sequence is appreciated. Thanks again. I have ordered the thermostat George and will let you know if my temp gauge improves! Mark

 

[Donal]

Thanks guys! I recently bought a "One man brake bleed kit" which I think is worth the 10 bucks! Clear plastic hose with a one way check valve at the one end. Just place check valve end into mason jar - crack the bleeder and then I can keep an eye on the reservoir as it goes down! The sequence is appreciated. Thanks again. I have ordered the thermostat George and will let you know if my temp gauge improves! Mark

One of the problems with this approach is the possibility of 'drawing' air back into the system via the threads of the bleed nipple. The check valve may do it's thing but the threads will not! Speedbleeders come with some 'gunk' applied to the threads to prevent this happening. You can actually buy this stuff from the Speedbleeders website.

If you don't want to go that way then go back to basics and open the bleed nipple with a little brake pressure applied and then re-tighten the nipple before releasing the brake. This is best done by two people. One final thing - make sure you put a cover over the reservoir when doing this, these things tend to 'spit' fluid on the return stroke DAMHIK

Don

 

[jmgrif]

Thanks guys! I recently bought a "One man brake bleed kit" which I think is worth the 10 bucks! Clear plastic hose with a one way check valve at the one end. Just place check valve end into mason jar - crack the bleeder and then I can keep an eye on the reservoir as it goes down! The sequence is appreciated. Thanks again. I have ordered the thermostat George and will let you know if my temp gauge improves! Mark

One of the problems with this approach is the possibility of 'drawing' air back into the system via the threads of the bleed nipple. The check valve may do it's thing but the threads will not! Speedbleeders come with some 'gunk' applied to the threads to prevent this happening. You can actually buy this stuff from the Speedbleeders website.

If you don't want to go that way then go back to basics and open the bleed nipple with a little brake pressure applied and then re-tighten the nipple before releasing the brake. This is best done by two people. One final thing - make sure you put a cover over the reservoir when doing this, these things tend to 'spit' fluid on the return stroke DAMHIK

Don

Thanks for your info! I do plan on a two person show and I had read about the speed bleeders having a coating but, that over time it wears out as well? I also read that you can apply teflon tape to the bleeders or use a little grease around the threads to help prevent the ingestion of air back into the system! I am still considering which way to go? Teflon or grease?

 

[HotRodZilla]

Spend a few bucks, and install the Speed Bleeders when you bleed the brakes. Makes it super easy. The coating on the bleeders works like Teflon tape to seal the threads.

It shouldn't dry out as it's designed to stay pliable because it has to let the bleeders move when you crack them. Haven't heard of any "drying" or "leaking" issues. Mine have worked perfectly on two bikes.

Contact Alex at Mishacycles.com. He knows exactly what you need, and offers a forum discount.

 

[weekend rider]

Here is some information that you need to know and do for your brakes. First take that one man kit back and get your money back, than invest in a brake bleeder tool, it is a ki tsold at stores like Cycle

Gear, Motorcycle super store, this is what you want to use. As far as that minute amout in the bottom it does not matter. You will fill the resvoir several times and it will eventualy bleed out. This hand held pump is one of the best ways to accomplish this job with out taking it to a shop. Also you will have it for the next time when it is needed.

 

[jmgrif]

Spend a few bucks, and install the Speed Bleeders when you bleed the brakes. Makes it super easy. The coating on the bleeders works like Teflon tape to seal the threads.

It shouldn't dry out as it's designed to stay pliable because it has to let the bleeders move when you crack them. Haven't heard of any "drying" or "leaking" issues. Mine have worked perfectly on two bikes.

Contact Alex at Mishacycles.com. He knows exactly what you need, and offers a forum discount.

Zilla; Thanks for the order site info, I just spoke with Alex who as you say is very familiar with the FJR! I will order the bleeders from him this AM.

 

[Schwach]

Hello,

I have a little question

Is described sequence

Use a syringe (or something like it) to remove all the old fluid from the master reservoir.

Refill with clean (new) fluid.

Bleed the front left calliper (only one nipple) and right calliper (upper nipple).

Then bleed the rear/linked system by starting at the front right calliper (lower nipple), then the rear brake calliper nipple.

is convenient also for my Gen 1 with ABS? Or Gen 1 and Gen 2 brake systems are different?

 

[ionbeam]

Hello, I have a little question Is described sequence

[sequence snipped]

is convenient also for my Gen 1 with ABS? Or Gen 1 and Gen 2 brake systems are different?

Gen I and Gen II are different. Gen II has the rear and front brakes linked so bleeding the rear brake requires the front nipple to be bled then the rear.

Gen I just bleed the one rear nipple, then bleed the two front nipples.

If your FJR has ABS, ideally you would like to jumper the ABS diagnostic pins and actuate the ABS pump a couple of times. The FSM doesn't call for this, but based on the number of ABS pumps that are now beginning to have stuck spool valves it may be a wise thing to do. The other option (less safe but would work) is to simply lock the rear wheel and let the ABS pump work normally. If you have never tried this before on an ABS bike, be prepared for the ABS to perhaps not engage. The ABS will not engage below 6 mph.