2010 enigine cutting out

[silveryam]

A few times after driving about 20 minutes the engine began cutting out. Some times it seemed it was going to die. Reving the engine in neutral it ran ruff but not as bad. I installed new spark plugs and it ran fine for several weeks. Then some time after the dash would not come on but the marker lights came on, I cleaned all spider connections and it was ok then 2 weeks later it is now cutting out again. WTF?!

 

[Intech]

With the limited information you are giving it still sounds like a spider. Did you check the S6 spider? That is one of the most common culprits and one of the hardest to get to.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Also check the error codes.

 

[AlleyCat]

What is your idle rpm when the bike is hot ? You should be around 1100 rpm. Did you check to see if the battery terminals are on nice and snug ? A loose connection will cause your bike to run bad.

 

[RossKean]

Doesn't sound particularly "spidery" to me although weird shit can start to happen when grounds get messed up. There is also at least one non-spider ground issue that has cropped up for a few people (a regular connector near S6).

I would check Battery Connections (and battery condition)

Are you using a Power Commander. If so, try without (reconnect O2 sensor). At the very least, make sure PC connections (INCLUDING GROUND) are OK.

Ignition switch OK?

Throttle Position Sensor OK?

These seem more likely to me.

 

[silveryam]

Yes as mentioned I have checked the spider connections and all are good. The battery connections are ok too. I don't have a power commander. I will check the regular connector next to S6 along with the pc connection. . I'm not sure how to go about checking the ignition switch but it seems if this was aTPS problem I would get an error code. My idle is at 1100 when warm but I don't follow how that be an issue while driving. I have noticed the only time it has acted up is when driving home on a warm day.

I have read plenty about earlier models having similar problems but not this year model. However it was built in 02/2010

The fact it ran ok after putting in new plugs then again after checking the spider connections suggests the connector next to S6 should be the next thing to check as I may have inadvertently jostled a loose connector there?

 

[RossKean]

I don't think the TPS will generate an error code.

 

[silveryam]

It will. Its codes 15 and 16

 

[silveryam]

Please keep the ideas coming and thanks for your help!! When I am able I will do some hunting based on your ideas and report back to you.

One other thought that is heat related and would not likely give a code is a bad ignition coil but I wouldn't think its old enough nor high mileage enough (55k)

 

[silveryam]

It did it again but this time ijiggled the ignition key and it ran ok. Poor connections in the switch? I ride in all kinds of weather. Maybe its connections are corroded?

 

[RossKean]

It will. Its codes 15 and 16

If the TPS is stuck, open or shorted you should get an error. If, on the other hand, it has a "bad" spot, you may just get crappy performance. This can be intermittent and may be difficult to reproduce or diagnose. Probably worse when hot.
As I mentioned, above, the ignition switch is a good possibility and your recent observation would support this. Certainly was a very common issue with the early Gen II but I did not think it was as problematic for later ones. Lots of reading on the forum about ignition switch issues.

Good luck with it.

 

[silveryam]

I installed a new ignition switch and it did it again afterwards. No led dash display, the fuel pump did not come on. several times on and off with the ignition switch and everything came back on

 

[redneckj]

I installed a new ignition switch and it did it again afterwards. No led dash display, the fuel pump did not come on. several times on and off with the ignition switch and everything came back on

Did you check the molex plug where the ignition switch plugs into the wiring harness? Look at the connections inside both sides of the plug.

 

[silveryam]

Yes I looked when installing the new switch. Everything is ok but I applied dielectric grease anyway

 

[silveryam]

I replaced the relays under the seat as a precaution. I'm going on my annual road trip in a week hoping it doesn't act up on the road. If it does it may find itself being traded in before getting back home. The problem with intermittent electrical problems is they are harder to track down.

 

[silveryam]

I had recently unplugged the windshield auto retract. On the 2010 it doesn;t look like a simple jumper like on previous models. Anyway I noticed my problems started after unplugging it. I plugging it back in and no more problems. I don't understand. If that was the cause why would it be intermittent?