Recently purchased new 2010 FJRA. Rhythmic rise and lowering rpm's approximately 900 - 1300 rpm's when motor is hot. Fluctuation increases with rising outside temperature of 75 degree plus Farenheit. Yamaha states idle to vary between 100-300 rpm. Yamaha shop found this fluctuation to be within specs. They had bike on cool day. I have previously owned 2005 and 2007 FJR's, neither of which had obvious idle fluctuation. Has anyone experienced this fluctuation on a 2010 FJR?
2010 FJR eratic idle
- Thread starter FJRbobliz
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
blrfjr
Well-known member
Might bike did the same thing last summer. but, after the engine warmed up it stabalize. It hasnt done it at all since the summer is over. I'll have to wait an see if it acts up again this summer.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
No, that isn't 'normal'. Something is amiss. Try to find a better dealer who will work with you on it.
How many miles? When was the last time it had a Throttle Body Sync (TBS)? Any farkles, like a Power Commander or something like that?
How many miles? When was the last time it had a Throttle Body Sync (TBS)? Any farkles, like a Power Commander or something like that?
Bike has 1,000 miles. Was checked by dealer for warranty issue at 900 miles. I first noticed this fluctuation at about 300 miles and it has not changed since then. TBS has not been done. Dealer said not necessary to do TBS as idle within tolerance in their opinion.
03HiYoSilver
Well-known member
Not true... do a TBS and get your Idle to around 1100-1200 RPM.
https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/efi-sync.html
https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=28
In addition, do a Fuel Treatment with something like SeaFoam:
https://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html
Where are you located?
Hope this helps.
Last edited by a moderator:
We purchased the bike in WI in September 2011 with 35 miles on it. Trailered it to southern CA December 2011 from Ontario, Canada. I have a TBS set up in Canada and always do my own checks. I felt that I should be able to get away with 4,000 - 6,000 miles without doing this function due to the fact that the bike is brand new and I would not think it would need it. Because the bike was purchased in the US it has warranty only in the US which is why I took it to the only Yamaha dealer in the Coachella Valley assuming I had a warranty issue. When they found idle to be within tolerance in their opinion I asked if a TBS had been done and the dealer told me it did not warrant this test... because idle is "within tolerance"... Catch 22.
Sure appreciate your feedback.
03HiYoSilver
Well-known member
I would not ACCEPT this answer...they are TWO different Cause & Effects.
Call 800-962-7926 Yamaha Customer Service-Cypress/CA if you can get this documented or have this service Accepted by Someone Else. Unless you want to do this yourself.
Do run the Fuel Cleaner first (Tank Full) to make sure you don't have Bad Gas/ Dirty Fuel Injectors and see what happens... it may stabilize.
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Niehart had some hunting idle issues with his '10 when it was brand new. IIRC, the combination of increasing the idle speed to 1200 rpm and some miles have made it much better. No way a 100 - 300 rpm variation is correct...it might be in tolerance, but it's not right.
Good luck!
--G
Good luck!
--G
dcarver
Well-known member
Looks like I need to buy a TBS for southern CA. Tried to check out your referral website for the $35 model but website comes up as expired. Tried entering the website with no success. Do you have further reference for this $35 model? Or is it obsolete? Looks like that $35 model stems back to 2005. Best price I found for another one was www.alphamotorparts.com carburetor synchronizer for $54.50 + shipping for total $67 on-line order from NV.
03HiYoSilver
Well-known member
Those may have been the Old Mercury Models now not sold.
Here are some other good options:
https://www.carbtune.co.uk/carbdtls.html (Solid Bars-No Mercury-No Bubbles)
https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0411
Here are some other good options:
https://www.carbtune.co.uk/carbdtls.html (Solid Bars-No Mercury-No Bubbles)
https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0411
Well I checked the throttle body sync and they were very close to even but I tweeked them... and I upped the rpm to 1,100 from just barely 1,000. There is still a very slight variation on idle but within my tolerance... so I think we have a fix.
Powerman
Well-known member
Did you sync the throttle bodies, then adjust the air screws?
Check for air leaks from the throttle bodies to the head and the PAIR system.
Check for air leaks from the throttle bodies to the head and the PAIR system.
Yes, I did sync the throttle bodies and adjust air screws. I will read the spark plugs when I get a few more miles on it. If concerns resurface I will check for air leaks from the throttle bodies to the head and the PAIR system.
Richouse
Well-known member
My 2010 did the exact same thing. Pulsed up and down 300 rpm at idle. It got real aggravating. I tried to sync them a few times and it didn't help. I fianlly decided to try syncing it one more time before I took it to a dealer. I spent some time and finally got it to stop pulsing.
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
You might try another 100 rpm idle speed and see what it does. Recheck the TBS at the higher idle and you'll [potentially] have a better running scoot with less off idle hesitation.
Just my $.02
--G
Similar threads
