2010 FJR1300A

[Alan Maupin]

Just purchased a used 2010. So far so good, except the clutch might need attention due to not so precise shifts.

 

[RossKean]

Just purchased a used 2010. So far so good, except the clutch might need attention due to not so precise shifts.

Welcome!! (From New Brunswick, Canada) Where are you located?

So, what's going on with the clutch? If the bike was newer , I might suggest that a clutch oil soak might be beneficial. Still might not be a bad idea. Other than getting insufficient lubrication, clutch problems are very rare on FJRs Instructions on the forum, if you need them. Fiber disks are removed and cleaned (if necessary) and soaked in motor oil overnight. Steel disks are scrubbed using oil and a Scotchbrite pad if there are visible deposits. How many miles on it ? Clutch soak is rarely required more than once and usually within the first 10,000 miles or less.

Before soaking the clutch, however, I would remove, clean and lubricate the shifter linkage. Also, remove the clutch lever and clean/lube the brass bushing that depresses the clutch plunger (with waterproof grease). This bushing needs service every year and if not maintained, it will wear and need to be replaced. Clean/lube the clutch lever pivot too.

This is a good thread for you to read. It includes a link to the clutch soak as well as some photos of a (badly) worn brass bushing.
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/clutch-problem.178932/
As I said, make sure you clean/lube the shifter pivots. While you're at it, do the rear brake pivot too. Needs to come apart to clean. Lube with waterproof grease. Sticking rear brake is common enough that many of us do that annually - more often if ridden in a lot of rain.

If it hasn't been done, flush/bleed the clutch. Also flush/bleed front brakes - left caliper and the topmost bleeder on the right caliper using the hand brake lever The bottom bleeder on the front brake (lower piston pair) is bled using the rear brake pedal and rear fluid reservoir as it is part of the linked brake system. Do the lower right front and then the rear brake caliper. DOT4 fluid for clutch and brake hydraulics.

 

[roger dodger]

Bad shifting clutch

= Lube the shifter linkage (under rubber boot)

= Change oil and filter

= Flush clutch Dot4 fluid.

 

[Alan Maupin]

Welcome!! (From New Brunswick, Canada) Where are you located?

So, what's going on with the clutch? If the bike was newer , I might suggest that a clutch oil soak might be beneficial. Still might not be a bad idea. Other than getting insufficient lubrication, clutch problems are very rare on FJRs Instructions on the forum, if you need them. Fiber disks are removed and cleaned (if necessary) and soaked in motor oil overnight. Steel disks are scrubbed using oil and a Scotchbrite pad if there are visible deposits. How many miles on it ? Clutch soak is rarely required more than once and usually within the first 10,000 miles or less.

Before soaking the clutch, however, I would remove, clean and lubricate the shifter linkage. Also, remove the clutch lever and clean/lube the brass bushing that depresses the clutch plunger (with waterproof grease). This bushing needs service every year and if not maintained, it will wear and need to be replaced. Clean/lube the clutch lever pivot too.

This is a good thread for you to read. It includes a link to the clutch soak as well as some photos of a (badly) worn brass bushing.
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/clutch-problem.178932/
As I said, make sure you clean/lube the shifter pivots. While you're at it, do the rear brake pivot too. Needs to come apart to clean. Lube with waterproof grease. Sticking rear brake is common enough that many of us do that annually - more often if ridden in a lot of rain.

If it hasn't been done, flush/bleed the clutch. Also flush/bleed front brakes - left caliper and the topmost bleeder on the right caliper using the hand brake lever The bottom bleeder on the front brake (lower piston pair) is bled using the rear brake pedal and rear fluid reservoir as it is part of the linked brake system. Do the lower right front and then the rear brake caliper. DOT4 fluid for clutch and brake hydraulics.

Ross,
Thanks for the tips and pointers. I'm located in Iowa. The bike has 24,500 miles. I put 500 on it in the past week.

I don't believe the clutch lever master cylinder has ever been serviced except for replacing fluid three years ago, April 2020, with 23960 on the odometer. The owner had only rode about 100 miles since then. Medical issues.

I still plan to do as you suggested, "clean and lubricate the shifter linkage, remove the clutch lever and clean/lube the brass bushing. If that doesn't clear things up I will move to the next step. He included the service manual so the task shouldn't be difficult.

I also need to adjust the slack in the throttle. There's too much play from completely closed to the point of engagement. I've gotten use to it, but I think it would drive better if adjusted to a closer tolerance.

The only other thing it needs 'right now' is a new front tire that I will mount myself next week.

Here's the maintenance log he included on an Excel Sheet.

 

[Alan Maupin]

Bad shifting clutch

= Lube the shifter linkage (under rubber boot)

= Change oil and filter

= Flush clutch Dot4 fluid.

Roger, Roger Dodger, Wilco

Thanks

 

[RossKean]

I don't believe the clutch lever master cylinder has ever been serviced

Other than replacing fluid, I did nothing to the master (or slave) units on clutch (or brakes) for either my 2007 (sold at 295,000 km) or my current 2011, currently at 160,000 km. I did NOTHING to ANY part of the clutch on either bike (besides changing fluid every couple of years and general clean/lube pivots and bushing). Pads are the only parts I ever replaced on brakes.

Similarly, I have done NOTHING to the engines of either bike beyond oil changes, sparkplugs and valve checks/adjustments.
These things are practically bulletproof!! Other than valve checks, tires, filters, sparkplugs and regular fluid changes/lube/maintenance, my 2011 FJR has had one set of fork seals/bushings, brake pads and a shifter rubber replaced in just about 100,000 miles. Even the headlight bulbs and battery are original (although I'll probably replace them this year).

At 24,500 miles, yours is still a baby!!

Looking at your maintenance record - looks pretty good to me.
More oil changes than strictly necessary but not a bad thing. A lot of people change oil more frequently than needed. In this case, the bike clearly wasn't ridden much and oil changes may have been more a function of time as opposed to mileage.

Same with coolant - I change my coolant when I do a valve clearance check - that is often enough. I do sparkplugs at the same time and usually use Iridium NGK CR8EIX and they are good until the next valve check. Speaking of which, valve check is coming up for your bike... Unlikely to need adjustments on a first valve check but good to do it and get a baseline. Valve check takes a couple or three hours the first time - significantly longer if adjustments are needed. Not hard to do if you are comfortable with this stuff.
When I do the valve check, I also check throttle body synchronization - doesn't need to be done very frequently on Gen II bikes.

I also need to adjust the slack in the throttle. There's too much play from completely closed to the point of engagement. I've gotten use to it, but I think it would drive better if adjusted to a closer tolerance.

Easy adjustment and it seems sloppy if there is too much slack. Don't get it too tight or you may have problems with it not snapping back to idle when it is released or it may bind when bars are turned.

The clutch soak (if needed) isn't in the service manual per se, but the manual will be useful for access to the clutch plates. The clutch soak tutorial linked in the thread I linked in my first reply is all you really need. If you end out removing the clutch cover (or the timing cover if you do your own valve check), you MIGHT need to replace gaskets but I have always been able to re-use them. Same with the rubber valve cover gasket when doing the valve check. (Only have to replace the o-rings for the coolant pipe.)

Have fun with it and if you want information the search function on the forum is good but feel free to ask questions...

Your bike gooks great in the photo. Front tire doesn't look too awful, if that is the current representation.
You might want to consider a set of frame sliders or crash bars...

 

[Alan Maupin]

Ross,
Thanks for that very positive information. I have a feeling the shifting problem may be operator induced. I need to work on doing a proper shift if I can figure out what that is relative to the function of this particular bike. On a different note, I was analyzing the previous owners maintenance log. I noticed that he was getting extreme longevity out of his Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT's. See the attached screenshot.

 

[Dodger]

Ross,
Thanks for that very positive information. I have a feeling the shifting problem may be operator induced. I need to work on doing a proper shift if I can figure out what that is relative to the function of this particular bike. On a different note, I was analyzing the previous owners maintenance log. I noticed that he was getting extreme longevity out of his Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT's. See the attached screenshot.

I really don't want to open up the "right oil" can of worms but isn't Rotella a diesel oil? I wonder if your wet clutch might benefit from an oil specifically designed for wet clutches, Personally I use Motul 7100, overkill maybe, but the price difference isn't that much.

 

[RossKean]

I really don't want to open up the "right oil" can of worms but isn't Rotella a diesel oil? I wonder if your wet clutch might benefit from an oil specifically designed for wet clutches, Personally I use Motul 7100, overkill maybe, but the price difference isn't that much.

Price difference is more than a factor of two (or even three) times when you get it on sale - especially if you buy the 5 gallon (18.9L) pail. (Comparing price of Rotella T6 synthetic to Mobil1 or similar offerings from Castrol, Amsoil, Motul, Lucas, Royal Purple, Liqui-Moly etc.)

Some have complained about clunky shifting using Rotella, but I have never found that to be the case. (I have 450,000 km on two different Gen II - mostly Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic.) Still, the OP should do the maintenance stuff as suggested (needs doing anyway) and consider a switch to a fully synthetic motorcycle designated oil if the issues persist. My 2011 shifts like butter. Note: Rotella T6 carries a JASO MA/MA2 designation which makes it safe for a motorcycle wet clutch.

Nothing wrong with conventional oils either but I am more comfortable with synthetic, especially if drain interval may be extended on a road trip.

 

[vzhq16]

That is a well-maintained machine. A couple of suggestions (just my opinion; YMMV) that air filter should be changed out. That's a lot of miles on one filter. I usually inspect and "clean" the filter every 10K mi and replace it at 20K mi.
Also, the FJR tranny like quick shifts. Taking your time through a shift sounds good for the sake of gear preservation but, I've found that most, possibly all, of the Yamahas I have owned over the years seem to be "happier" when shifted as quick as possible. It's become an automatic or reflex action for me now but I think what I am doing goes something like this: I start to apply a bit of upward pressure on the shifter when I am ready to head for the next gear. Then I do a simultaneous dip of the throttle, flick of the clutch and quick pull up on the shifter. The gears snick in like the precision intended by mama Yama. Again, just my 2¢.

 

[RossKean]

That is a well-maintained machine. A couple of suggestions (just my opinion; YMMV) that air filter should be changed out. That's a lot of miles on one filter. I usually inspect and "clean" the filter every 10K mi and replace it at 20K mi.

I think that depends a LOT on where you ride. I check mine every year and blow out loose dust but I probably haven't actually changed it in 40,000 miles or more. Very little dust, pollen or other particulates where I ride. If it looks OK and most of the visible dust is on one end, then it is very likely OK - resistance to air flow is slight. If the dust is evenly distributed end-to-end, it is more likely that you have some partial blockage and increased resistance. Always a good idea to check, especially if your region has a significant rodent population. Air filter seems to be a favorite nesting spot for mice and squirrels.

 

[FJR30FAN]

Welcome. I have a 2010 as well. I noticed it shifts better after dipping the throttle, particularly from first to second. I got 57k miles so far so good and valves still within spec. Happy trails

 

[rbentnail]

Shift lever position vs boot size can cause wonky shifting too. JS.

 

[JQL]

I really don't want to open up the "right oil" can of worms but isn't Rotella a diesel oil? I wonder if your wet clutch might benefit from an oil specifically designed for wet clutches, Personally I use Motul 7100, overkill maybe, but the price difference isn't that much.

I can confirm that Motul 7100 synthetic oil is excellent. I've used it since the 1st oil change on my commuter motorcycle. She's now 13 years old and has about 122,000 miles on the clock. The clutch was replaced at about 98,000 miles of city riding (i.e. lots of "clutching" and slipping the clutch in traffic/parking etc.). I'm told that this mileage is about 20,000 miles more than can be expected for city riding.

The engine is quiet and doesn't use any noticeable amounts of oil between changes. So, from my perspective, full synthetic, high quality oil is an excellent investment, and may even end up being cheaper in the long run, especially if you're going to keep your motorcycle for "a while".

 

[RossKean]

Don't turn this into an oil thread. There are plenty of those. Sufficient to say that ANY bike needs oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications and that it should be changed at recommended intervals. Beyond that, you could probably make a case for (or against) any oil. I have never heard of an FJR engine failure that could be attributed to the brand of oil. Use whichever one makes you feel good.

Edit to add: From Blackstone - engine oil analysis experts. This has been posted in this forum before...

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Aug-17-ENG.pdf

 

[Alan Maupin]

Small miracles do happen. I took the slack out of the throttle and adjusted the idle to 1100 spec. Now It's like riding a different bike. It shifts smoother, and doesn't stall off idle at intersections, and the general herky-jerky at slow speeds is tamed. More than a few times I've had to restart the engine in the middle of an intersection. By reading this forum I traced the problem to an out of spec idle.

 

[RossKean]

Both of those will make a big difference. Clutch soak isn't a big deal but good you don't appear to need it. Might get even better with more miles - the poor thing was neglected too long.