2013 hard downshifting

[art miller]

My 14ES seemed a little clunky going into first during the 600 mile break-in. The dealer changed the oil and it was a little better up to 4000 miles when I changed over to Amsoil 10-40. At that time the shifting became very smooth up to about 1000 miles. Now it seems to have reverted to the pre Amsoil period. Some shifts are very smooth while others are more clunky. I believe some of our negative issues have to do with our shifting technique. Up shifting requires no or little clutch activation. Timing is important as well. Down shifting will be much smoother if you get the throttle blimp correct. I'm still experimenting with how to get from N into 1st from a dead stop without that clunk. I usually downshift into 1st prior to a stop at light or stop sign. I have also gotten in the habit of going into 1st before starting the bike thus eliminating the need to endure that clunk.

I'll try the suggestion form AKjitus (home of Crazy Ed's chili pepper beer) and count to five before dropping into 1st.

 

[petey]

I think the sticky/hard shifting is because of dry clutch plates. I had the same problem and soaking the plates completely cured this condition. But make sure there is no air in the system.

 

[rocketman0]

Isn't the clutch plates bathed in the engine oil?

 

[900gc]

Isn't the clutch plates bathed in the engine oil?

No. Some splash is all. They call it a wet clutch... more like a semi-damp clutch.

Clutch soak, bleed clutch line, lube shift lever and try shifting techniques ie. bliping throttle on down shifts and for some dark magic reason, different oil works better for some as others have mentioned.

 

[Queensland Ken]

The plates receive a small amount of oil through an oil port that the clutch rod passes through.

Section 1 of the service manual.

 

[rPGoatBoy]

The plates receive a small amount of oil through an oil port that the clutch rod passes through.Section 1 of the service manual.

I think that's just to lubricate the needle bearing on the clutch basket.

Isn't the clutch plates bathed in the engine oil?

No. Some splash is all. They call it a wet clutch... more like a semi-damp clutch.

Clutch soak, bleed clutch line, lube shift lever and try shifting techniques ie. bliping throttle on down shifts and for some dark magic reason, different oil works better for some as others have mentioned.

All of this plus a slight preload to the shifter before shifting and I'll bet 99% of the shifting issues mentioned here will disappear.

The clutch only gets a marginal amount of oil splashed around because of the transmission's "stacked" arrangement; the mainshaft centerline is located above the crank centerline. Somewhere there's a video posted on this forum via youtube that shows the engine running with the clutch cover off. Not much oil to be seen in that area, albeit I'm sure while it's closed up some oil mist/vapors are flying around. Not exactly the best location for an oil shearing friction device, but in truth works just fine after a proper clutch soak.

The problem is that for whatever reason, tha muthaship isn't doing this at the factory, or not doing it effectively enough, or maybe preassembled clutch packs lay on shelves for months/years at a time before being installed in the engine. Gen II and newer bike owners have reported near bone dry friction disks with the common complaint that their clutches were grabby and shifts clunky. Most of their problems that I've read about here went away after a clutch soak.

The good news is, its' a relatively cheap and easy task to perform, and can be done in a couple of hours.

 

[mcatrophy]

...Somewhere there's a video posted on this forum via youtube that shows the engine running with the clutch cover off.

...

Most of their problems that I've read about here went away after a clutch soak.

The good news is, it's a relatively cheap and easy task to perform, and can be done in a couple of hours.

I think you are probably referring to my video (It's not on youtube, it's on my web site, so loading might be a little slow):



Ignore the extraneous noises from my (then) 3-year old grandson who was helping me. Yes, he still has all his fingers

.

A reference to my clutch soak procedure is here, or you can go directly to my pictorial how-to.

 

[rockmurf]

Thanks for the info so far. I will be bleeding the clutch Sunday and lubing the shifter. I am using mobil one mc 20-50 syn. oil. The shifting is fine, clunks into first and upshifts are fine it is only downshifting and mostly getting it out of 5th gear.

 

[gregory]

12.5K and yes, I have hard downshifts as well.

 

[rockmurf]

does anyone know if there has been a service bulletin on this?

 

[Wlfman]

Try a different brand of oil.

 

[gumba]

Have had this problem with my 013. But now with 17k and hot weather the problem is gone.

 

[rPGoatBoy]

...Somewhere there's a video posted on this forum via youtube that shows the engine running with the clutch cover off.

...

Most of their problems that I've read about here went away after a clutch soak.

The good news is, it's a relatively cheap and easy task to perform, and can be done in a couple of hours.

I think you are probably referring to my video (It's not on youtube, it's on my web site, so loading might be a little slow):



Ignore the extraneous noises from my (then) 3-year old grandson who was helping me. Yes, he still has all his fingers

.

A reference to my clutch soak procedure is here, or you can go directly to my pictorial how-to.

Yup, that's the one, thanks!

 

[Jer]

I have over 10,000 on my 2013 and have no shifting problems with the exception of occasionally forgetting to downshift past second to first at stops.

 

[Old Guy]

I have over 10,000 on my 2013 and have no shifting problems with the exception of occasionally forgetting to downshift past second to first at stops.

Just over 22,000 on my 2013 and no problems whatsoever. Mine will even snick into low when cold without clunking. While out riding, I always park it in low and start it with the clutch in, so there's no clunk there either.

 

[kiwiaudio]

I have 9k on my 2013 and my problem is downshifting from 5th gear. It just doesn't want to come out. The warmer the bike the better overall shifting but it clunks heartily when I first put it in first. Has anyone come up with a solution and anyone else having problems?

Also as AK suggests, but hold it in while blipping the throttle 3-4 times. Clutch lever on position 1 spreads the plates a little more too, as the piston travels further.

 

[rbentnail]

Try a different brand of oil.

+1. My red headed bass turd stepchild bike hates some oils and loves others. The first indication it is not happy or it's time for an oil change is difficulty downshifting, particularly to 4th and 3rd gears.

 

[jscasteel]

I have only a thousand miles on my 2013. So far, the only thing I have seen is a pronounced "clunk" into first gear on the first time after a cold start.

 

[rbentnail]

I have only a thousand miles on my 2013. So far, the only thing I have seen is a pronounced "clunk" into first gear on the first time after a cold start.

That part is normal. After 6 yrs/75k miles mine still clunks into 1st when cold.

 

[Old Guy]

I have only a thousand miles on my 2013. So far, the only thing I have seen is a pronounced "clunk" into first gear on the first time after a cold start.

My 2013 is weird. I've noticed on many occasions that I can usually start the bike cold in neutral, pull the clutch, and click it into low with no clunk at all.