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Did my first oil change at 80 miles. Pretty sure the engine is not going to get any more broken in than it is know. Prolly change the oil again at 600 just incase.

 
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Did my first oil change at 80 miles. Pretty sure the engine is not going to get any more broken in than it is know. Prolly change the oil again at 600 just incase. Think less ride, ride more.
No worries, we each do it our own way. I figure the engineers that designed the bike know best, so I follow their direction. Again each to their own.

 
Got tagged this morning. Stopped at Lowes to buy M6 SS hardware to mount. Ride into TN got cut short due to rain and 55°F. So I got that out of the way, wet bike.
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What!!!???? Man, that sucks. Hope you are OK.

ETJ, Escape - RFH and I are using the T-Rex sliders. There is a "tab" molded into the slider that runs under the frame such that it cannot rotate. As you may recall, my bike hit the pavement at 40-ish MPH during my off last Fall. I am using the same sliders on my replacement bike. T-rex makes an excellent product, IMO.

 
What!!!???? Man, that sucks. Hope you are OK.
ETJ, Escape - RFH and I are using the T-Rex sliders. There is a "tab" molded into the slider that runs under the frame such that it cannot rotate. As you may recall, my bike hit the pavement at 40-ish MPH during my off last Fall. I am using the same sliders on my replacement bike. T-rex makes an excellent product, IMO.
If referring to me, "tagged" means I got my plate from DMV. Then on a celebration ride the sky opened and my brand new shinny motorcycle is no longer brand new shiny.

Also darned autocorrect decided to correct "Lowes" and I missed it.

 
Did my first oil change at 80 miles. Pretty sure the engine is not going to get any more broken in than it is know. Prolly change the oil again at 600 just incase.
I think the engine is still breaking in at 10k miles.
Did you really see metal shavings at 80? Shoot, my first ride on my '04 was 250 miles.

 
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Did my first oil change at 80 miles. Pretty sure the engine is not going to get any more broken in than it is know. Prolly change the oil again at 600 just incase.
Why did you feel it necessary to change the oil with only 80 miles on the bike? I had the first oil/filter change at 600 miles and it looked fine. No metal and the oil was not even dirty. A Yamaha Service Rep from Yamaha USA Cypress, CA told me the engines are run in a bit before leaving the assembly plant.

 
I did my change a little over 600. I used Mobile 1 synthetic 10W40 and am not real impressed with the way it is shifting now. It was so much smoother with the original oil. I'll have to check with the dealership to find out what they put in there when they set up the bike. I had thought about using Rotella T6.

 
ETJ, Escape - RFH and I are using the T-Rex sliders. There is a "tab" molded into the slider that runs under the frame such that it cannot rotate. As you may recall, my bike hit the pavement at 40-ish MPH during my off last Fall. I am using the same sliders on my replacement bike. T-rex makes an excellent product, IMO.
Thanks for the T-Rex tip 'pants. I'm still sitting on the fence about replacing the $hitty Moto sliders. I've had standard GSG Moko's on my previous FJRs...now I'm leaning heavily in the direction of their GEN III $$treetLine versions.

--G

 
Got tagged this morning. Stopped at Lowest to buy M6 SS hardware to mount. Ride into TN got cut short due to rain and 55°F. So I got that out of the way, wet bike. :(
[img=[URL="https://home.hiwaay.net/~dkelly/Yamaha/FJR_Lowes.jpg%5D"]https://home.hiwaay.net/~dkelly/Yamaha/FJR_Lowes.jpg][/URL]
I wouldn't worry about that too much, it won't melt...ask anyone that was ar EOM last year.

 
First service done today at Snake River Yamaha. I'm glad to have that out of the way. I'm at about 780 miles, so just a couple hundred more until full break in is complete. I'll get past that next weekend.
If history is any indication, just wait until you hit 8-9000 miles. Every FJR I've owned (including my Tenere) has loosened up nicely with a few (thousand) miles on them.

...now get to riding!
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--G

 
First service done today at Snake River Yamaha. I'm glad to have that out of the way. I'm at about 780 miles, so just a couple hundred more until full break in is complete. I'll get past that next weekend.
If history is any indication, just wait until you hit 8-9000 miles. Every FJR I've owned (including my Tenere) has loosened up nicely with a few (thousand) miles on them.

...now get to riding!
tonguesmiley.gif


--G
Yep, only had it up to 125 so far, I'll wait until I get at least 1000 miles on it before going for a buck and a half.
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ETJ, Escape - RFH and I are using the T-Rex sliders. There is a "tab" molded into the slider that runs under the frame such that it cannot rotate. As you may recall, my bike hit the pavement at 40-ish MPH during my off last Fall. I am using the same sliders on my replacement bike. T-rex makes an excellent product, IMO.
Thanks for the T-Rex tip 'pants. I'm still sitting on the fence about replacing the $hitty Moto sliders. I've had standard GSG Moko's on my previous FJRs...now I'm leaning heavily in the direction of their GEN III $$treetLine versions.
--G
Nice find George. I actually like the looks of those much better than the T-Rex's, even though I know they make a good product.

 
I used the moto-man break in method. I rode it hard( but not red-linning) home from the dealer. Then changed the oil. I was doing pulls from about 2,000 to about 8,000 rpms in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. Some think this it is hogwash and some use it for all of their new engine break ins. To each thier own I guess.

 
I used the moto-man break in method. I rode it hard( but not red-linning) home from the dealer. Then changed the oil. I was doing pulls from about 2,000 to about 8,000 rpms in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. Some think this it is hogwash and some use it for all of their new engine break ins. To each thier own I guess.
Must be nice to have room to do those pulls up to 8,000 in 4th. I'd die around here trying to do that. I had seen some articles on how fully loading up the motor forces the rings to seal up tight. It substantially reduces blow by when you break in an engine that way. I had been doing the pulls as much as I can and it burns a lot of fuel when you get on to it but is is so worth the smile it puts on my face.
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I did my change a little over 600. I used Mobile 1 synthetic 10W40 and am not real impressed with the way it is shifting now. It was so much smoother with the original oil. I'll have to check with the dealership to find out what they put in there when they set up the bike. I had thought about using Rotella T6.
I experienced the same thing when I changed my oil the first time. Don't recall what it was but took it out and put in plain old non-synthetic Yamalube 10/40, much better. I stayed with non-synthetic for the first 5k miles then switched to Motul 300V, best shifting oil I've used. Goes in all my bikes now, I get it from Rocky Mountain ATV.

I also use the Moto-man break in technique. What he says makes a lot of sense and I've had good luck with my motors using this method.

 
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Strikes me that these days it's not the engne that needs "running in" but the transmission. The bores are coated with some hard-wearing ceramic stuff that doesn't need running in, the rings may need shaping a little, but when did you last see oil smoke out of a new engine?

The only metal on metal wear is from things like bearings, gear wheels, oil pump and cam chain slippers.

When was the last report of engine wear caused by bad running in? Is there any correlation between type of running in and engine life?

 
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... But let's please not turn this thread into another engine break in thread. We have had plenty of those already.
... but with the '16 there are more gears to wear, and being helically cut their wear may be different from what we're used to on our older machines
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