2018 fjr shifting problems

[jimhoy]

I keep hitting dead spots( won't go into next gear) up shifting and down shifting. Sometimes I have to double clutch to get it to go to the next gear. Anybody have any similar issues?

 

[FJRay]

Sounds like the linkage is dirty and not returning to center after each shift. Make sure you are not keeping it from centering. If it doesn't return it won't grab the next gear up or down.

 

[jimhoy]

It has just had it's first service and on the ride home I did not notice anything unusual. But when I took it out today it seems like I had an issue at least 10 times. Sometimes the gear indicator is just blank.

 

[philter]

Two things almost always are the cause of this. Wrong size boots/poorly adjusted shift levers, AND sticky shift linkage that does NOT allow gear pawls to return to the correct place on shift drum.

 

[Canadian FJR]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/174376-funky-shifting/?hl=funky

 

[escapefjrtist]

Echoing the rest of the gang...new bike - make sure you're letting the shifter return to the center position. Had a similar issue when I got a new set of Sidi boots. Ended up adjusting the shifter upward to accommodate the slightly thicker toe.

Good luck!

~G

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Same as above. My 18 shifts just like my 14. I should say- it shifted like silk, totally different from my 2014, until I got about 100 miles on it. Then it began shifting like the 2014. Sometimes requiring a couple of presses to downshift. Sometimes being very reluctant to go into first gear. Let us know what you find.

 

[jimhoy]

I'm wearing my same old riding boots. Snowing here today. I adjusted the shift lever all the way to upper line. As soon as I ride it again I'll post results. This thing shifts like it just rolled out of a cave compared to my Bonneville. If it persists I'll take it to the shop and let them try and trouble shoot. It just seems like a bike as expensive as this should shift when you want it to on the first or second try.

 

[Uncle Hud]

Make sure you report this to a dealership. There have been issues with FJR shift forks. Get your dealership notified, preferably with email or something that could be used as documentation if needed later.

Do you have YES coverage?

 

[Bounce]

I'm wearing my same old riding boots. Snowing here today. I adjusted the shift lever all the way to upper line. As soon as I ride it again I'll post results. This thing shifts like it just rolled out of a cave compared to my Bonneville. If it persists I'll take it to the shop and let them try and trouble shoot. It just seems like a bike as expensive as this should shift when you want it to on the first or second try.

Along with the report-new-bike-issues-to-dealer recommendation, I'd suggest you put the "fine adjustment" rod back into the mid-point then move the pedal one tooth up on the spline. Remove the retaining fastener, pull the pedal, move it up/down (as needed) one tooth at a time, tighten the fastener back to spec.

The rod is when a tooth movement is too much. If you've moved it to the extreme limit, then center it again, and move the pedal on the splined shaft. It's the gross adjustment with the rod being more for fine tuning once you get in the ballpark.

 

[rbentnail]

I'm wearing my same old riding boots. Snowing here today. I adjusted the shift lever all the way to upper line. As soon as I ride it again I'll post results. This thing shifts like it just rolled out of a cave compared to my Bonneville. If it persists I'll take it to the shop and let them try and trouble shoot. It just seems like a bike as expensive as this should shift when you want it to on the first or second try.

Along with the report-new-bike-issues-to-dealer recommendation, I'd suggest you put the "fine adjustment" rod back into the mid-point then move the pedal one tooth up on the spline. Remove the retaining fastener, pull the pedal, move it up/down (as needed) one tooth at a time, tighten the fastener back to spec.

The rod is when a tooth movement is too much. If you've moved it to the extreme limit, then center it again, and move the pedal on the splined shaft. It's the gross adjustment with the rod being more for fine tuning once you get in the ballpark.

+1. Exactly what I found with installing peg lowerers.