2nd gear shift issues

[pjm204]

Sometimes when I shift from first to second, the lever seems to kick back down like it doesn't get into gear immediately. When this happens, the shift sounds terrible and I get nervous that I am going to ruin my transmission. I'm planning to do a clutch soak tonight and bleed my clutch. What could this mean? The bike is an 03 with 4900 miles on it. I don't shift like I'm racing, generally around 4k rpm. I use the clutch every time though I am not sure it is always disengaging. Hopefully the stuff I do tonight will help.

I'm hoping my shift dogs aren't worn or bent.

 

[Geezer]

How long has this been happening? Did you recently get new boots? You can adjust the shifter up or down a little bit to make it work for you.

I hope it's something simple like that.

 

[kaitsdad]

PJM, why don't you complete your user information so we all know what year of bike you ride as well as where you're from.

That way you won't seem like a troll, and more members might take your posts seriously.

 

[reecebike]

Put lucas 20\50 full synthetic oil in next time & that problem will be GONE!!!

 

[wheatonFJR]

Put lucas 20\50 full synthetic oil in next time & that problem will be GONE!!!

Presto Magic!! :clapping:



I know if I don't give a firm shift with the foot...my bike wants to bite back as if to say, " c'mon you limp wrister! shift it like you mean it!" It does just fine, with no "bite back" when it is a good firm shift.

 

[pjm204]

Put lucas 20\50 full synthetic oil in next time & that problem will be GONE!!!

Presto Magic!! :clapping:



I know if I don't give a firm shift with the foot...my bike wants to bite back as if to say, " c'mon you limp wrister! shift it like you mean it!" It does just fine, with no "bite back" when it is a good firm shift.

I have a feeling this is at least part of my issue. I just lubed the pivot points on the shifter.

 

[pjm204]

PJM, why don't you complete your user information so we all know what year of bike you ride as well as where you're from.
That way you won't seem like a troll, and more members might take your posts seriously.

Updated, sorry.

How many trolls have 102 posts though? Definitely not a troll, just a new FJR owner who is concerned about his bike and wants to learn everything he can about it.

 

[Solo]

I'll +1 the need for a firm shift. If the shift is not made with authority it kicks back out and there is all sorts of crunching and grinding. Put that rascal in 2nd like you mean it!

 

[pjm204]

Will do, from now on no more shifting like a pu**y for me. I definitely think the clutch soak and clutch bleed will definitely help my shifting.

 

[Duff]

I hated the "throw" on my 05 and my 08. I swapped the R1 shift arm for my stocker and it made the throw shorter. Of course, you have to have a good firm shift as well. Anyway, i can shift with the best of them now. JMHO. For more info, do a search for R1 shift lever on the forum. You can sheck out my website too, I think I have pictures of that mod on there with all the others. Clicky in sig.

 

[RadioHowie]

On the other hand.....

.....if there IS a shifting problem that won't adjust, or "oil" away, plus you determine your 03 IS a ticker, then you should consider another FJR, or another brand altogether.

I would NOT want to consider the headaches of owning a bike that needed a cylinder head rebuild AND a trannyectomy.

Sometimes you're the windshield...sometimes you're the bug. Here's hopin' you ain't no bug!

Good luck with your Liquid Silver beauty!

ps: I STILL don't believe an early Gen I would start ticking at 4.9K miles.

 

[pjm204]

i think the shifting is a combo of me not being firm enough with the shifter and the clutch being a bit sticky from sitting. As for the ticking, im just going to keep riding it.

 

[pjm204]

The bike seems to shift worse when hot. Does this indicate anything different that if it shifted worse when cold?

 

[Duff]

I just re-read the post after noticing something...

First, flush the clutch line fluid and bleed it. Make sure you have maximum clutch disengagement when pulling the lever.

Next, I'd pull the clutch basket and check everything to make sure there isn't any junk stuck on the plates or the basket.

Finally, ride another couple thousand miles of good hard riding, higher-RPM shifting (after verifying everything is working properly) and let the tranny break-in. Mine continued to get better up to about the 10K mark when it leveled out and quit improving.

My comment earlier was made because I had a terrible time missing the 1-2 shift. This was because I didn't like moving my foot that far (lazy or whatever) and using the shorter R1 shift linkage cured this issue perfectly. Most people who do that mod like to shift fast and forcefully, so the slightly increased effort needed to shift the shorter linkage is not an issue. The FJR tranny is extremely durable and I have done things on several occasions that I thought would bring it down... so far, it's bulletproof!

 

[pjm204]

I just re-read the post after noticing something...
First, flush the clutch line fluid and bleed it. Make sure you have maximum clutch disengagement when pulling the lever.

Next, I'd pull the clutch basket and check everything to make sure there isn't any junk stuck on the plates or the basket.

Finally, ride another couple thousand miles of good hard riding, higher-RPM shifting (after verifying everything is working properly) and let the tranny break-in. Mine continued to get better up to about the 10K mark when it leveled out and quit improving.

My comment earlier was made because I had a terrible time missing the 1-2 shift. This was because I didn't like moving my foot that far (lazy or whatever) and using the shorter R1 shift linkage cured this issue perfectly. Most people who do that mod like to shift fast and forcefully, so the slightly increased effort needed to shift the shorter linkage is not an issue. The FJR tranny is extremely durable and I have done things on several occasions that I thought would bring it down... so far, it's bulletproof!

Good post, I will be doing the clutch bleed and plate soak tonight. Plan to clean the plates off, soak them for an hour or two, and reassemble. It seems like the clutch disengages "better" if I pull in the clutch lever very quickly as opposed to casually. I think because the bike spent the majority of its time in a garage unused, the plates have gotten sticky and dry.

 

[Harald]

My comment earlier was made because I had a terrible time missing the 1-2 shift. This was because I didn't like moving my foot that far (lazy or whatever) and using the shorter R1 shift linkage cured this issue perfectly.

I had the same issue with shifting. Haven't tried the R1 linkage option, but simply adjusting the shifter downward a little allows for a more positive upward shift and has worked very well for me (and its free :yahoo: ).

And I would highly suggest thoroughly lubing the whole linkage assembly.

 

[pjm204]

already lubed the shifter, seems to have helped a bit. before the shifter was not always returning back down. now it does

 

[Fred W]

Here's the good news. Bent shift forks, or worn gear dogs do not cause "shifting" problems. What they cause is for the tranny to feel like it is jumping out and back into gear under really heavy acceleration (because that is what it is doing).

So put that right out of your mind and get some sleep tonight.

 

[pjm204]

Here's the good news. Bent shift forks, or worn gear dogs do not cause "shifting" problems. What they cause is for the tranny to feel like it is jumping out and back into gear under really heavy acceleration (because that is what it is doing).
So put that right out of your mind and get some sleep tonight.

then the problem is that I'm pussyfooting.....wish you were closer, I'd have you listen to my bike and see what you think