51,003 Miles and first failure

[JimLor]

Took the bike for inspection today and failed due to catastrophic failure - high beam indicator light burned out!  Yup, in VA you fail inspection for that.  Anyone out there replaced their indicator lights - mechanic recommended I replace them all and I agree.  Any tips or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Ignacio]

Any tips or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

Gen 1 owners have the privilege/sucky task of having to replace those lights.  Remove the front cowl here and the link in my signature about swapping instruments lights  with LEDs while you're in there as well.

 

[JimLor]

Thanks Iggy, something to do in those old lonely days of winter!

 

[FJRay]

The LED upgrade is well worth the pain in the *** of the install. Make sure to test the install before final assy. The led's are polarity sensitive.  I had to turn a couple in the socket.

They also save a few watts of juice.

 

[juniorfjr]

I followed Iggy's tutorial and the finished product was well worth it. 

 

[JimLor]

Maybe I missed this, but are the indicator lights (hi beam, engine, nuetral...) the same as the speedo/tach/fuel LED bulbs?  I agree with the switch, we have a sailboat and have converted about 20 bulbs to LED - much easier on the battery.

 

[Ignacio]

Maybe I missed this, but are the indicator lights (hi beam, engine, nuetral...) the same as the speedo/tach/fuel LED bulbs?

No.  I swapped my instrument lights, not indicator lights.  I wasn't able to source an LED bulb back then for indicators, but would try now since they're more widespread.  The link was a suggestion of what to do while you're in there as well...shows its a doable job.

Assuming you do, let us know the specifics and further the knowledge chain.

 

[JimLor]

SOB!  Thought this was interesting but figured I would just remove the one panel below the hi beam indicator bulb and stick in a replacement. That’s what I get for thinking since you cannot access it that way - a seemingly logical way. So I guess I’ll take the whole front end off to change one stinkin’ bulb. And while I’m in there I will replace all with LEDs. Anyone know the designation for the 5 indicator bulbs - neutral, hi beam, abs, oil, engine?  Thanks. 

 

[Ludwig61]

The original bulbs in a Gen I dash are 4WM-83517-10-00 - BULB (T3.4 12V-80MA)

 

[JimLor]

Thanks Ludwig, that helps!

 

[JimLor]

Well, I'm pretty sure my bike is haunted!!  No, really.  One day in 2015 I left work to head home, put the key in the bike, turned it, nothing - nada - niente - rien - niets - kahore.  Tried and tried.  Had bike hauled home, parked in garage and went for a week with the family to Smith Mountain Lake.  Returned, put the key in the bike - yup, started right up and hasn't happened again since.

Now - failed inspection due to no high beam indicator light.  Saw several of my windshield bolts were busted so I replaced them all with aluminum bolts.  When I finished, the auto retract on shut-down stopped working - BUT the high-beam indicator worked (with the engine running).  Went out today, windshield auto retract works and the high-beam indicator doesn't.  Do I need the Dali Lama to stop by?  Exorcism? Put the broken bolts back in the windshield?  Ritual sacrifice?

Any thoughts, serious or not, are appreciated.

 

[infrared]

Well, I'm pretty sure my bike is haunted!!  No, really.  One day in 2015 I left work to head home, put the key in the bike, turned it, nothing - nada - niente - rien - niets - kahore.  Tried and tried.  Had bike hauled home, parked in garage and went for a week with the family to Smith Mountain Lake.  Returned, put the key in the bike - yup, started right up and hasn't happened again since.

Now - failed inspection due to no high beam indicator light.  Saw several of my windshield bolts were busted so I replaced them all with aluminum bolts.  When I finished, the auto retract on shut-down stopped working - BUT the high-beam indicator worked (with the engine running).  Went out today, windshield auto retract works and the high-beam indicator doesn't.  Do I need the Dali Lama to stop by?  Exorcism? Put the broken bolts back in the windshield?  Ritual sacrifice?

Jim,

Can't help with the electricals directly, but as a career electronics tech, I can't tell you how many times I have unplugged and re-connected connectors, fuses, relays, battery cables, et c. and restored the unit to full operation.  Sometimes the unit was half the size of a car, and sometimes the size of a book, but a quality connector cleaner (aerosol spray can) can be a good friend to have on hand.  Of course, as a tech, I'd wait until the owner went for coffee, before "fixing" his problem.

Now on the windshield screws, I would like to pass along a warning note.  Those OEM plastic screws are designed to shear (fail) in any serious accident, letting the windshield pop away harmlessly, in one piece.  Metal screws there will not fail, and instead the windshield can become a jagged set of sharp blades that are a real threat to limb and life.  Your call, not mine, but I use the OEM plastic screws in my FJR windshield.  It's cheap insurance, and it's the only "insurance" that I respect.  Dollars do not replace lost blood.

 

[RossKean]

Your call, not mine, but I use the OEM plastic screws in my FJR windshield.

Me too but be careful tightening them up.  There is a half turn difference between too loose and ruined the screw!

 

[Bounce]

It's the mechanical scraping of the connectors cleaning each other when R&Ring them. Routine PM of all such (as you noted) each year should prevent it from happening at 3am in the rain.

 

[SkooterG]

For Gen I bikes, there is a main electrical connector under the fuel tank near the very front of the frame.  This can cause issues over time and you get weird things happening like you describe.  It would be the first place I look, and the most likely to solve it.

And just say no to metal windscreen screws.

 

[JimLor]

Thanks for the tip on the screws - I’ll go back to plastic!  I’ll also check the electrical box by the tank front. I might also disconnect the battery, whack the bike with a hammer and see what happens!  Works on other electronics. Went for a ride this morning and it was great. A month shy of owning her for 16 years and it’s still a thrill experiencing the acceleration.  Also great that Lorie can get onboard and I can putz along like an old man and the bike is happy.  I went to a dealer this morning and looked at a 2020.  I felt ashamed.  Luckily the bike didn’t see me.  After 16 years it looks like a great deal of the bits and bobs are the same.  
I will let you all know how this turns out and thanks for taking the time to comment.

Jim

 

[roger dodger]

And just say no to metal windscreen screws.

I had an 'issue' going off-road after missing a decreasing radius turn in TN somewhere. 

I saw a tree coming fast so chose to lay it down in the soft grass.  The grass wasn't very soft, but my tank bag and windshield both came off and rolled to a stop close together.  After I gathered myself and my parts together, I rode back with the shield strapped on the back seat. 

It's hard to find a Dealer (with parts) when you need one, so I found the metal screws that would fit and rode home to MN. 

I quickly paid to get those 'snappy' plastic screws and re-mounted my windshield happily!!!  I figure I could have been hurt or worse if I had run into a thick shield during that oops! 

Remember ... they break easily so only snug them up on installation.  Hopefully you never need to buy them again.     

 

[wetwolf]

plastic screws, 100 for about 12 bux

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/material~plastic/rounded-head-screws/metric-nylon-pan-head-phillips-screws/

 

[JimLor]

SkooterG-pretty sure you are right on the electrical connections.  Rode yesterday and the hi-beam indicator worked, then it didn't then it did, then it didn't.  If I could only get it to work when the state inspection inspector was looking at it.  I will fiddle with the connectors.  Thanks.