Done, fini, Left Sep 1 - returned Oct 2 with 10 days off in Vegas while SO, friends & I played tourist (Zion, Bryce, GC, Sedona) . In total, 23 riding days @ 15,094km/9,378mi. Last leg of trip was from SF up through Hy 1 to Leggit and over 299 to Redding- fine riding. Eventually over to Grand Teton, Yellowstone, and some surprising mountainous terrain in the Big Horn Mountains east of Cody. I had to scrub Mt St Helenes cause we were running out of time.
On to Mt Rushmore, Sturgis, Custer and the Black Hills. More fine riding especially the famous Spearfish Canyon (inside joke it's really not a bad ride). Took the back roads through the Badlands and eventually ran out of options and had to come home via SSM. The last 2-3 days is the worst coming home. I had to use liberal amounts of anti butt powder (aka Johnson Baby Powder) in the final stages. I determined that its the damn heat under the seat that causes all the problem. Maybe a nice sheepskin is the answer!
Had a nice flat in Murdo SD which I fixed in 30 min using my jiffy compressor/string patch kit. The east enterance/exit of Yellowstone is under massive reconstruction and very interesting for a mc when the rain turns the dirt to mud and deeply rutted roads and you need to follow a pilot car and a string of RVs for ten or so miles down a 7900ft mountain with no side barriers. Becomes a highlight of the trip when you manage not to slide off the edge and become one with the canyon below.
My last leg riding partner ran out of gas in the SD boonies but this time I was ready for him and had a nice plastic siphon tube ready for his use. I put one in the tankbag after the last time we ran out of gas together.
Put new tires on departure (Michlin Pilot Roads) and the rear is shot @ 15,000km though no cord showing yet. The front is quite scalloped but could easily do 2-3 thousand more kms in a pinch.
Great weather for all 33 days of the trip except for that rainy afternoon/evening in Yellowstone.
Saw several FJR along the last leg notably a 05 from Phoenix, who had his tank bag pecked apart by ravens at Yellowstone while he was viewing Old Faithful.
PS I will wash my bike sometime soon... I promise; but not today.
Thanks to everyone with their offers of assistance & advice.
My favorite photo of the trip is my stay in Alcatraz... no other performance awards at all!