A question for G2 throttle cam users

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Fencer

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for those of you that installed the G2

with the cam difference, does it take more or less wrist input to go WFO over the stock cam?

Logic would suggest "X" but I want to confirm my way of thinking with the users before I taint the discussion

and if you respond and know what cam you put on, list it as someone may have purchased a different cam that will skew the question.

 
I used the cam that came with the tube as I ordered the one specific for the FJR. There is no noticeable difference in the amount of force it takes to twist the throttle. The only difference is in the first 1/4 or so after that is like the stock cam.

 
It does take a slight amount more total travel. Basic geometry at play. Slightly reduced circumference means a tad more rotation to achieve the same linear pull on the cable.

At the very low throttle range, the reduced circumference actually provides a tiny bit more torque for the same human effort. Again, all the differences are extremely minute.

In my experience with the G2, there does tend to be one certain spot where the cable begins to "bend" over the initial "hump" between the modified section and the standard circumference surface. There is some slight, yet noticeable extra force required to hold the throttle right there, in that one special spot. But it's nothing major, just barely noticeable.

What everyone refers to as "the standard G2 for FJR", is in fact the Y400 cam. There is also a Y200 cam that is less of a change from stock/symmetrical (about half the difference). I like the Y400 for 2006-2007 FJRs. I generally prefer the Y200 cam for other year models that don't have the screwed up Yamaha cable cams.

 
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I acquired my 2007 FJR about a month ago. I was aware of the spotanious nature of the power comming on, experiencing it was delightful but would obvoiusly take time to master to be smooth. The G2 Y400 throttle tube was an obvious winner. I fitted it after a week.

The immediate difference is a more controllable low rpm range, excellent for traffic. A lot of the jerkiness - too much or too little power match mostly went away.

The logic behind the cam are to provide a "lower gearing" of the throttle position to power demanded, or if in a no load case (neutral) more wrist movement per incremental rpm. The change is that it takes about 1.37 more twist than the standard Yamaha FJR cam to pull the same amout of throttle cable. Then you come to the end of the cam and then the cable pull is back to the original rate of cable per degree of twist, but then, no matter which gear you're in, the scenery is going by very quickly. (I have the actual numbers back at the office)

I like the change, it is subtle but much better in the commuting mode.

Just use an compressed air on the end of the grip and pull at the same time and the grip is off, almost too easy.

Hope this helps.

 
I generally prefer the Y200 cam for other year models that don't have the screwed up Yamaha cable cams.
What's screwed up about the cable cam? Inquiring minds...
I guess "cable pulley" is more accurate.

Yamaha attempted to compensate for jerky, off-idle throttle response by including a slight cam shape to the cable pulley on the 2006. Unfortunately they went the wrong direction and only made the problem worse. Then in 2007 they corrected their mistake and again went the wrong way, making the 2007 model the absolute worse yet. In 2008 they corrected it for real.

If you hop from a 2008 to a 2006, the problem is very noticeable. Otherwise it's more of a nuisance that's easily corrected with an aftermarket throttle tube.

 
I have the Y-400 and really like the difference it makes. I generally ride 99% 2up so WFO has never happened with us. You can click on the link below and see the difference in the cam from the pics. If you are handy with a dremmel tool it's really no big deal to modify your stock tube. However G2 does have an excellent product and fast shipping so take your pick.

 
This is not for the FJ but for my GSXR

I am still trying to get accustomed to the new bike and I have had it on the track 3 times now and I have changed it every time afterwards so nothing is staying the same. this last time I added a bigger sprocket and suspension to it

I think the spocket change gave me an issue I had not noticed the previous 2 times.

The throttle input is now VERY twitchy. the slightest wrist movement will gun it or chop it. not a good way to be when leaned over in tight turn trying to MAINTAIN the throttle speed

Speaking with other owners of this bike at the track, this experience is not unique to me.

I remembered the G2 twitch throttle fix for the FJ and found an R1 throttle tube fix for the GSXR, BUT I think they will work conversely of each other.

The R1 tube is supposed to be an easy for my bike to make it go WFO without wrist repositioning, but I THINK that would make it even more twitchy than it already is.

I think the cam on the G2 would give more control, but you would have less acceleration available without a second grip.

I R confuzed as to how to fix this

 
If you get the desired results from a farkle in a seamless manner, I call that a success.

That is my experience with the G2. Had the low speed issues with throttle control which are now gone.

It works for me.

 
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