ABS brake issues

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CGS

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I have a 2007 FJR with 113000 miles on it. I have flushed both front and rear brake reservoirs. I have rebuilt the rear brake master cylinder and have replaced the seals on the rear brake caliper, and it was working fine for about 1300 miles. Then after I had replaced the front and rear tires I got a code 12. After checking everything, I check on another site to change my starter solenoid, and it worked. Then after taking it out for a 200 mile ride I get an issue I am currently having is that the rear brake start to engage with out me even using them. When I come to a stop the bike does not freely roll. I have tried to bleed the brakes with a vacumn and no change. I tried to go through the process of tripping the two leads like have seen here before to get the ABS to pulse and nothing happens. I brought it to a mechanic and now he has been looking at it and can't get the ABS to do anything also. The ABS light remains on and we are stumped. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. It has been over 2 months since riding.

Thanks Chuck
 
Four things come to mind...
1) Rear brake pivot needs to be cleaned and greased. Have to take the pedal off to do that.
2) Rear brake fluid reservoir is too full which can prevent the pads from retracting fully.
3) You just replaced seals on the rear brake and master cylinder - might need to check that everything is right there. Hate to suggest taking it all apart again but that might be where you end up.
4) Long shot, but are you 100% certain that the rear wheel was installed correctly? (I have seen it done wrong...)

Have you tried using a jumper to activate the ABS pump?

Good luck
 
Four things come to mind...
1) Rear brake pivot needs to be cleaned and greased. Have to take the pedal off to do that.
2) Rear brake fluid reservoir is too full which can prevent the pads from retracting fully.
3) You just replaced seals on the rear brake and master cylinder - might need to check that everything is right there. Hate to suggest taking it all apart again but that might be where you end up.
4) Long shot, but are you 100% certain that the rear wheel was installed correctly? (I have seen it done wrong...)

Have you tried using a jumper to activate the ABS pump?

Good luck
All the above has been checked and rechecked by me and my mechanic. It seems to be the ABS pump is malfunctioning but would like to be sure.
 
Put the bike on the center stand and rotate the rear wheel. is there resistance, something scraping? Possibly the large metal washer was placed on the wrong side of the brake caliper bracket. Also, there is a spacer that goes between the abs backing plate and the wheel housing. Make sure that piece is in place. As stated previously, overfilling the rear brake reservoir will cause the brake pads to fail to retract.
 
Put the bike on the center stand and rotate the rear wheel. is there resistance, something scraping? Possibly the large metal washer was placed on the wrong side of the brake caliper bracket. Also, there is a spacer that goes between the abs backing plate and the wheel housing. Make sure that piece is in place. As stated previously, overfilling the rear brake reservoir will cause the brake pads to fail to retract.

Put the bike on the center stand and rotate the rear wheel. is there resistance, something scraping? Possibly the large metal washer was placed on the wrong side of the brake caliper bracket. Also, there is a spacer that goes between the abs backing plate and the wheel housing. Make sure that piece is in place. As stated previously, overfilling the rear brake reservoir will cause the brake pads to fail to retract.
No resistance, also forgot to add that when you pump the rear brake pedal it releases the brake but then as the bike runs it begins to grab again.
 
This may be an odd suggestion, but is it possible that either the front or rear brake engagement switches are stuck or shorted? You mentioned that the wheels roll freely when the bike is off, but not when running. This indicates an electronic issue to me, because the rest of the system operates on phyisical fluid pressure.
 
This may be an odd suggestion, but is it possible that either the front or rear brake engagement switches are stuck or shorted? You mentioned that the wheels roll freely when the bike is off, but not when running. This indicates an electronic issue to me, because the rest of the system operates on phyisical fluid pressure.
I'm having the mechanic check the relays. Thanks. If it would be possible to just turn off the whole ABS sysytem, I would. Don't think the thing worked in the first place. I bought it used and just to see, I would hit the back brakes hard and they would lock up.
 
I'm having the mechanic check the relays. Thanks. If it would be possible to just turn off the whole ABS sysytem, I would. Don't think the thing worked in the first place. I bought it used and just to see, I would hit the back brakes hard and they would lock up.
Never heard of an engagement switch
 
Never heard of an engagement switch
I was referring to the switches that close the circuit to turn on the brake lights when you apply the front and/or rear brakes. I am not sure if they do more than just engage the brake lights, but if they are also part of the ABS then they might be something to check. Again, you mentioned that the issue happens only when your bike is running, otherwise the wheels turn freely. So, an electrical issue is suspect since the ABS pump is not working either.
 
I'm having the mechanic check the relays. Thanks. If it would be possible to just turn off the whole ABS sysytem, I would. Don't think the thing worked in the first place. I bought it used and just to see, I would hit the back brakes hard and they would lock up.
If you pull the fuse for the ABS system, that would turn the ABS system off.
 
I wouldn't expect a reply any time soon. The OP has been back many times and not addressed either ABS brake thread he started. :rolleyes:
I have pretty much given up on the damn thing, as did my mechanic. I changed out the abs pump and yes it now works through the jumper and through the regular mashing the rear brakes. Still have a problem that once underway the rear brakes if lightly used will start to grab. Relaesing the presasure by cracking open the bleeder valve then allows it to move freely and does not reoccur till you stop riding and it sits. It also slighly grabs at the front wheels also in which you crack open the bleeder valve too. My only guess is the proportional valve is causing this issue.
 
I have pretty much given up on the damn thing, as did my mechanic. I changed out the abs pump and yes it now works through the jumper and through the regular mashing the rear brakes. Still have a problem that once underway the rear brakes if lightly used will start to grab. Relaesing the presasure by cracking open the bleeder valve then allows it to move freely and does not reoccur till you stop riding and it sits. It also slighly grabs at the front wheels also in which you crack open the bleeder valve too. My only guess is the proportional valve is causing this issue.
Did you bought and installed a used one abs pump unit?
 
I have pretty much given up on the damn thing, as did my mechanic. I changed out the abs pump and yes it now works through the jumper and through the regular mashing the rear brakes. Still have a problem that once underway the rear brakes if lightly used will start to grab. Relaesing the presasure by cracking open the bleeder valve then allows it to move freely and does not reoccur till you stop riding and it sits. It also slighly grabs at the front wheels also in which you crack open the bleeder valve too. My only guess is the proportional valve is causing this issue.

Damn dude! That sucks. I can only imagine how frustrating this is for you. What a weird problem.
 

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