ABS light flashes after LED brake light replacement.

[SkipS]

So I swapped out my incandescent brake lights for LED and installed a modulator to make the brake light flash. With the key on and the motor off it works perfect and no ABS lightno matter how long the brakes applied. With the motor running or driving, the ABS light will flash if I apply the brakes for a longer period like at a stop light or stopping on a hill. If I turn the key off and turn it back on the ABS light goes out and as long as I dont do a lengthy stop it stays out. Any ideas how to fix it?

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I would return it to stock and install a plug and play admore light bar.

 

[worney]

It is telling you that a bulb is out (wants an incandescent) only fix is to replace one or put in resistors.

 

[PJ4863]

LEDs always flow some current, and it wreaks havoc with the ABS. You have to maintain the indacascent bulbs.

 

[SkipS]

So when you add a resistor does that increase wattage that is drawn from your alternator? Or are you still saving Watts due to the low draw on the LED's? I installed all the LED lights on the bike for visibility but also to save wattage to run electric heated clothing.

 

[Nanahanman]

If you add a resistor, it pretty much duplicates the original bulb draw. Might as well go back to stock.

I'm not sure I see the benefit of installing an LED tail/brake light to"save wattage" They draw so little, and the brake light is only on for a short time that it seems pointless.

Are you having some problems with the alternator not providing enough power?

 

[SkipS]

Thanks everybody for the help. I finished up today. I did add the resistor. The LED lights, with the modulator are much brighter and attract a lot more attention than the stock bulbs. I'm very happy with the end results. Total cost was under $30 for everything (that includes LED bulbs, modulator, and resistor) that was a big plus for me and our tight budget. The modulator flashes fast for about a second then flashes 4 times then goes solid. It really grabs attention!

 

[worney]

What did you end up using? Pics or it didn't happen. I'd be interested to see what you used and did with the resistor. I was concerned about the heat produced.

 

[SkipS]

Dont have a pic hosting site except for google photos.Not sure how to use that yet .When i get home from work I will get the links to the stuff I used

 

[SkipS]

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/brake-light-strobe-module/195/845/

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/ https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Projector-replacement-Brilliant/dp/B01MY4T4BU. Here are the components, I will edit with pics later

 

[Ignacio]

Here are the components, I will edit with pics later

While you're at it, you might change your status to include what FJR year and model you got instead of "Other or considering FJR".

 

[SkipS]

LED Brake on left side .stock on right

LED running light on left, stock right..

 

[SkipS]

Here are where the components are. the heat sink/resistor is temporary mounted as I monitor how hot it gets. There is about 1/2 inch clearance between it and the seat. I left the brake light on for about 3 minutes to get it really hot and simulate a longer stoplight stop or stopping on a hill, and the bottom of the seat was not even warm to the touch. I will Do some more testing with a longer ride, periodically checking for heat then I will drill holes and mount it permanently later this week. Please excuse the ugly green electrical tape.I could not find the black anywhere.

 

[worney]

So you only replaced one or both? I was primarily worried about the heat from the resistor as well.

 

[SkipS]

So you only replaced one or both? I was primarily worried about the heat from the resistor as well.

I replaced both, this was just a comparison of how much brighter the LED are. I think the resistor will be fine where it is. If not I have another spot in mind that I know will work but drilling the holes will be tougher

 

[SkipS]

https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Projector-replacement-Brilliant/dp/B01MY4T4BU if the link works, these are the LED bulbs I used

 

[mikerider]

That's really a big difference in brightness!

 

[Harald]

I'm not sure what your power issue is with heated gear, but a common issue with older FJR's like your 07 is less voltage at the battery over time due to degrading connections and marginally sized wire to begin with. My 07 charge voltage was around 13.7 with no loads and would drop to 13.2 or less with heated grips and heated liner cranked up (even less if the fans kick on). The easy solution is to go to www.roadstercycle.com and order their harness that replaces the stock run from Regulator/Rectifier to Battery. It's easy to just piggy back it along the bike's harness and the end result is a regular 14.1 to 14.2 volts at the battery and consequently much less drop with heated gear on.

 

[SkipS]

Thanks for the info. My charging is ok as of now. 13.6 to 13.8 with the gear on. Its preventive maint. mostly.