ABS module removal

[Nitrotate]

Ok so I came up with another question.

I'm not going to be using the front brakes on my reverse trike project so I'd like to eliminate the front calipers and brake lines but they go back into an ABS box.

Can I simply pull them off and bolt the holes off or will this play havock with the computer or ABS module or something? And if I do, will the ABS still work for the rear?

2005 FJR1300 ABS

 

[wfooshee]

Losing the front sensor will confuse the ABS system, I'm pretty sure. You might be better off just replacing the brakes with a system from a non-ABS bike. Should be an easy swap at the rear since your project is a Gen-I bike. On the Gen-I I'm pretty sure that's just hydraulics. Checking the parts fiche I see that different part numbers apply to ABS and non-ABS calipers, but I'll be damned if I see anything different. I don't know why a non-ABS hydraulic system wouldn't work just fine with the caliper you already have on the rear. I don't see how you can save the ABS.

What do you plan to use for the front? Interesting idea; I guess a reverse trike would have an automotive-type front end, or something off a quad ATV with better wheels and tires. We already know about a car tire for the rear wheel.

 

[nofreeride]

I don't have the answer to your question, but why not bypass the ABS altogether and just run a brake line to the rear caliper? You could control both front and rear from a car-type master cylinder with a proportioning valve to adjust rear brake bias. The ABS sensor disconnected in the rear shouldn't affect how the bike runs, just light the ABS warning light on the dash (you wouldn't have to hook up the light). Then you could remove the entire ABS from the bike to save weight, or sell it.

 

[Nitrotate]

I don't have the answer to your question, but why not bypass the ABS altogether and just run a brake line to the rear caliper? You could control both front and rear from a car-type master cylinder with a proportioning valve to adjust rear brake bias. The ABS sensor disconnected in the rear shouldn't affect how the bike runs, just light the ABS warning light on the dash (you wouldn't have to hook up the light). Then you could remove the entire ABS from the bike to save weight, or sell it.

That's pretty much exactly what I would like to do. I'm not hellbent on keeping the ABS on the rear, I'd rather get rid of the weight and sell the parts for extra build money...

I'm trying to sell everything I can to make extra money for the build. I need to get front rims and tires ASAP for mocking up the front suspension.