Acquiring Boxed FJR in the PNW?

[Archer]

Can I scratch this scab and ask some following questions to pricing and acquiring a brand new FJR? 

How can I buy a 2019 1300A in a factory box delivered to Seattle?

Can I and should I look for a unit that was manufactured in the U.S.?  Carolina, right?

Should I avoid sourcing through California dealer importer because of emissions?

I'm not opposed to buying through a WA state dealer, but will they leave it unboxed? 

Sure on the best pricing available but I understand value added service.  Can a boxed 2019 1300A be found for $15,000 before shipping?

And if I may conclude my questions, by asking the most important ones, "How would you Forum members think to acquire a 2019 1300A in a box, what immediate short-comings might be realized(parts missing, integration with YamaMama missing umbilical's DNA,?"  If you have a similar plan, can I see your crib notes?

Thanks again always to this forum.  I have been thinking to this 2019 1300A for some time, and like dlowery, I secured S.O. blessing in advance, but I have time to prepare to make the purchase and more importantly, ready myself to unbox this future baby. That is big ask I'm making here, How would you do it? 

 

[Ignacio]

In question order...I hope I get they synced up correctly:

1) No, best to put put it in it's own thread as its significantly different than the other one you were trying to piggy-back.  Did it for you as forum admin.

2, 5, 6, part of 7, and 8 ) Ask if a dealer if they'd leave it in the box for you at least to see it, but I believe they're required to set it up...I REALLY doubt they'll let you take it home to assemble.  Call some dealers and find out though!  Let us know the results.

3) FJRs are and always been made in Japan.

4) I can't remember if Gen 3/4 bikes have a California one state version, but if they do...yeah.....go for a non-CA bike.   But I think late-model are 50 state compliant...so it doesn't matter.

7) Reread the threads we conveniently pinned and reminded you to read when you first signed up. They include a new-purchase-checklist.

 

[user 213]

Depending on why you want the bike still in the shipping crate, perhaps focus less on getting a new bike that way and find a good deal where ever.  And spend some quality time talking to your local dealer about buying one of their left over shipping skids with the box and frame.  They probably just recycle them for scrap metal and cardboard.

Set up isn't much more than putting on the windscreen, front wheel and attaching the battery.  Sure, there is a host of minor things like fluids to check, but if you want to see more about that, this will give you an idea - LINK  There is still a lot of relevant info at www.fjr1300.info and FJRTech.com

 

[Archer]

Thank you Ignacio and OCfjr, helps me re-see the questions I puked out there. And I'll reread the links and tighten the questions. 

 

[escapefjrtist]

Don't want to burst your bubble Archer, but it's unlikely you're able to source a crated / unassembled FJR. Many years ago with my PDP '06, I tried to have it shipped across the country still crated and then assembled by DVP (before they were DVP) in Sunnyside. Both my selling dealer in MI and DVP contacted Yamaha and were not able to pull it off.

Why the search for a crated '19? Start searching for a '19 and set up a fly-n-ride for yourself. It'll be fun...trust me!

~G

 

[Archer]

Thanks for busting my bubble, G     I enjoyed the fly-n-ride with my 13' (middle of winter!) but I haven't figured out a way to allow for engine break-in by flying to home state of Texas for new unit, even having a home base in San Antonio.  And still be married by the end of the season.

I'd like to kill off this topic by admitting I'm worried about the finite number of boxed up 2019 1300A models, and how I am going to get one.  Thanks all for reading.

 

[Old Guy]

As far as break in I can't imagine that riding one home at legal speeds would be a problem.

 

[Silverbullet]

Break in/schmake in. I think I have tried all the various methods, with the most fun one being for the 2004 that I picked up from DVP. Warchild, Sharp and I (along with a couple of others that my now geezer memory is failing to recollect) headed out of Sunnyside and immediately ran the bikes up to as much as we could wring out of them. Since I'm guessing the statute of limitations has long since passed, think most Interstate speed limits times two. It was all the brand new and tight motors would give us. Nothing has ever seemed to make a difference as the bikes all served me faithfully with nary an issue. Break it in like you stole it if that is your pleasure, follow the wimpy advice Yamaha gives you or anything in-between. It certainly has never made any difference for any of mine. 

 

[Mortenk]

I am pretty sure the latest gen has a CA version, so beware of that. I would certainly not be worried about riding a new bike home - you can vary the riding style if that's what you are worried about. You could e.g. take back roads rather than freeways part of the way, and this way experience a wider range of RPMs etc. Best of luck from another Seattle rider!

 

[user 213]

Break in/schmake in. I think I have tried all the various methods, with the most fun one being for the 2004 that I picked up from DVP. Warchild, Sharp and I (along with a couple of others that my now geezer memory is failing to recollect) headed out of Sunnyside and immediately ran the bikes up to as much as we could wring out of them. Since I'm guessing the statute of limitations has long since passed, think most Interstate speed limits times two. It was all the brand new and tight motors would give us. Nothing has ever seemed to make a difference as the bikes all served me faithfully with nary an issue. Break it in like you stole it if that is your pleasure, follow the wimpy advice Yamaha gives you or anything in-between. It certainly has never made any difference for any of mine. 

I remember that.  Moto man break in over about 30 miles, then we all got oil changes and headed home in all directions.  I took the back roads to P-town and put 162k on that bike before selling it.

 

[dlowrey]

Break in/schmake in. I think I have tried all the various methods, with the most fun one being for the 2004 that I picked up from DVP. Warchild, Sharp and I (along with a couple of others that my now geezer memory is failing to recollect) headed out of Sunnyside and immediately ran the bikes up to as much as we could wring out of them. 

A long long time ago, when I was into small block chevy engines, there was a never ending debate about breaking in an engine. Some said run it full out, others said take it easy for a few hundred miles. What seem to make the most sense to me was to run it with light loads and after an hour or two start cycling it up to higher rpm and lower, again without loading up the engine. Motor around for a day or two. Then change the oil and filter, just in case there were some debris or metal shavings in the oil galleys. After that your good to go.

 

[sapest]

I’m with schmake in.

Yamaha runs every engine to the redline before it leaves the factory.

As for autos, I delivered new cars from the railyards to dealers for 2 yrs. The rail contractors hire 20 yr old young men to move the cars from the rail cars to the staging lot. They get paid minimum wage. Its hot, and boring work. The only fun they get is whenever anything remotely powerful is coming down the ramp. Max revs and burnouts rule. Break in is over in 50 ft.

-Steve

 

[dlowrey]

Hi Steve

Yamaha runs every engine to the redline before it leaves the factory.

Well, I did not know that. I would like to learn more, what is your source? I was speaking to small block chevys, like 327s, in the hot rod crowd more than 30 years ago. I do recall that bumping a brand new rebuild to max rpm risked spinning a crank shaft bearing out of its saddle.

Yamaha must have everything dialed in tight.

-DL

 

[DiggerDr.]

I doubt Yamaha would be willing to do that. A warranty claim might get kinda touchy if the bike was not set up by a Yamaha mechanic. I would not be overly concerned with break in. Just make sure that first oil change is timely. Sooner or later you'll need to pass in a hurry. Break in is now complete.

 

[sapest]

Its my poor recollection that spun mains, as often as not were the result of poor oil circulation, often oil passages blocked by poorly installed gaskets, or similar.

Two different Yamaha dealers that have taken factory tours have told me that all FJR engines are redlined before they leave the factory.

-Steve

 

[RossKean]

Two different Yamaha dealers that have taken factory tours have told me that all FJR engines are redlined before they leave the factory.

Better to have it break in the factory than to deal with warranty repair in the field, possible complete replacement and bad publicity.  Even if fewer than one in a thousand grenades on the test bench.  (Almost certainly done on a dynamometer before installing into the bike chassis.)  Cost to repair or replace a busted engine in the factory is a very small fraction of the cost to deal with it after the complete bike is sold to a customer.