Added a trailer to the stable

[mferriter]

Use this Hoppy converter; includes fused run from the battery to power the trailer, only pulls signal information from the splices to tail, stop, and directional wires, not power. Protects & isolates from the bike's electrical system.

HOPPY CONVERTER

See my reply above about things that need to be done to the stock Tagalong to make it usable.

I can provide the rough length measurements of the individual pieces, but I bent, cut, and drilled everything by trial fitting everything. I think I bought 2 48" lengths of 1/4" by 1" mild steel plus a foot of the angle stock. The end plates on the angle stock were scraps my welder friend had kicking around.

2 pcs 24" (from footpeg mount to ball mount assembly)

2 pcs 10" (from exhaust hanger mount to 24" piece)

2 pcs 14" (from fender mount under rear seat to 24" piece)

Again, I drilled the ends that attach to the bike first, then visegripped the pieces together to determine the location for connecting bolts.

I also strongly recommend this trailer jack/wheel. Makes it real easy to unhook the trailer near the road at the campsite and push it around to a convenient spot.

trailer jack

8" wheels work just fine; experiences over on the motocampers forum show no particular advantage to the larger wheel, but if you like the look, go for it.

If anyone finds a paint that will stick well to tho polypropalene (sp) carrier, I'd like to know of it.

Swivel hitch is nice to have if you have the money, but many have found it unnecessary. If you get the trailer upside down, you're in deeper **** than just a swivel hitch can shovel you out of... :lol:

Enjoy!

How was the install on the converter?

The 12" wheels are rated at a slightly higher speed that the 8" ones and have a higher weight rating as well. Although I'll never load it to it's full capacity, I will be riding "slightly" faster than the speed rating for the wheels. It's nice to know that are built to be a bit more sturdy.

You're right on the swivel hitch, but I'd hate to hit the pivot limit on the ball coupler half way through a corner. On the other hand, maybe the standard coupler would prevent the bike from hitting the ground if I ever dropped it in a parking lot.

I've got the same jack/wheel for the tongue - just have to make sure everything is balanced to keep the tongue weight in the proper range.

Not sure if the box is made from polyproylene (PP), it doesn't feel like it. I have to drill a couple holes for new locking latches. I can bring in some of the plastic shavings and check them out in the materials lab at work.

 

[fljab]

Doesn't look like the "tagalong" is available, but there is a 40x49" trailer for $200 (ish). I see a winter project idea forming....

I bought one of those HF little trailers with the bigger wheels. I didn't like the width, so one bike week (Daytona) I went to a number of the vendors that sold MC trailers and measured the width. I then narrowed my trailer to that measurement. Most of it is straightforward; the only part that needed outside help is narrowing/rewelding the axle.

Got it all done, and I've never used it! Oh, well, I'm tempted sometimes to get it up and legal for camping trips where I need more gear, so don't really want to get rid of it.

 

[mferriter]

Doesn't look like the "tagalong" is available, but there is a 40x49" trailer for $200 (ish). I see a winter project idea forming....

I bought one of those HF little trailers with the bigger wheels. I didn't like the width, so one bike week (Daytona) I went to a number of the vendors that sold MC trailers and measured the width. I then narrowed my trailer to that measurement. Most of it is straightforward; the only part that needed outside help is narrowing/rewelding the axle.

Got it all done, and I've never used it! Oh, well, I'm tempted sometimes to get it up and legal for camping trips where I need more gear, so don't really want to get rid of it.

Originally I was going to just buy the naked trailer and then get a box from sears or Thule or Yakima, but I was able to get an offer I couldn't refuse for a display model - which I've now got broken down into parts getting it "just right".

You're right, though, it does seem a little wide. The problem is finding a narrower box to go on top - unless you make your own. A plywood box with aluminum diamond plate would look sweet.

I'm also going to lower mine using torsion axles. I have the axles and am still working out the details in my head. It should end up being 4 - 6" closer to the ground when I'm done. I may have to add a gooseneck to the tongue to make the coupler level with the ball hitch.

 

[fljab]

Swivel hitch is nice to have if you have the money, but many have found it unnecessary. If you get the trailer upside down, you're in deeper **** than just a swivel hitch can shovel you out of... :lol:

Enjoy!

I came up with this setup - which as you can see is not installed yet:

Sourced the rod end from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). I figure to remove the hex head, then weld or otherwise fasten the bolt to the trailer tongue with the rod end threaded on to it. Thread the tongue bolt in as far as it will go, but leave it loose so it'll rotate; the rod end bearing will handle up and down. The bolt that goes through the rod end I figured to fasten to a tab or hole on the hitch on the bike. I'll either drill this one or source a bolt that you can put a cotter pin through.

Forget the cost, but it's not much esp if you can scrounge some of the stuff (bolts/washers) somewhere like I did. I also have access to a pretty good salvage yard that sells to the public, but no guarantee that they'll have what you need at the time you're there, but they do have alot of stuff for quite abit less than buying new retail.

 

[fljab]

You're right, though, it does seem a little wide. The problem is finding a narrower box to go on top - unless you make your own. A plywood box with aluminum diamond plate would look sweet.

After narrowing, I have 27" between the fenders (bed width); I found this box from - I think - Tractor Supply - it's a pickup truck box/tool chest/storage.

It measures 36" L x 20" H x 21" W; I had figured to mount it in the middle width wise and that will leave ~3" on each side where I can tie down "stuff" that doesn't or can't go in the box.

I'm also going to lower mine using torsion axles. I have the axles and am still working out the details in my head. It should end up being 4 - 6" closer to the ground when I'm done. I may have to add a gooseneck to the tongue to make the coupler level with the ball hitch.

Great idea; I don't have torsion but the springs - maybe do an old school lowering by reversing the eye and removing a leaf... need to think about that some.

 

[mferriter]

You're right, though, it does seem a little wide. The problem is finding a narrower box to go on top - unless you make your own. A plywood box with aluminum diamond plate would look sweet.

After narrowing, I have 27" between the fenders (bed width); I found this box from - I think - Tractor Supply - it's a pickup truck box/tool chest/storage.

It measures 36" L x 20" H x 21" W; I had figured to mount it in the middle width wise and that will leave ~3" on each side where I can tie down "stuff" that doesn't or can't go in the box.

I'm also going to lower mine using torsion axles. I have the axles and am still working out the details in my head. It should end up being 4 - 6" closer to the ground when I'm done. I may have to add a gooseneck to the tongue to make the coupler level with the ball hitch.

Great idea; I don't have torsion but the springs - maybe do an old school lowering by reversing the eye and removing a leaf... need to think about that some.

Nice old-school box. I can't figure out why the prefab MC trailers cost $2000+. Maybe they are handmade fiberglass - ridiculous if you ask me, unless you'riding a $30,000 gold wing and money and common sense don't come into play.

Not sure if I understand you pivoting mechanism. If I read it correctly you're going to leave the thread loose to allow for it to pivot? I suppose it can't loosen all the way unless you trailer (or motorcycle) flips over a few times. Just something about leaving it loos that bothers me. If you just used a threaded rod welded to one end and a big nut welded to the other end, that might also work ot allow it to pivot. You'd need to get everything centered to allow it to pivot along the center axis of the trailer tongue. You cold also put another nut on the threaded rod to prevent it from being able to unscrew all the way.

I'm looking for the pivot mechanism used in the swivels, or some sort of ball-bearing plate (like what used to allow castor wheels to pivot).

Something like this, but way more heavy duty, since they are only rated for compression, not extension force:

 

[fljab]

Not sure if I understand you pivoting mechanism. If I read it correctly you're going to leave the thread loose to allow for it to pivot? I suppose it can't loosen all the way unless you trailer (or motorcycle) flips over a few times. Just something about leaving it loos that bothers me. If you just used a threaded rod welded to one end and a big nut welded to the other end, that might also work ot allow it to pivot. You'd need to get everything centered to allow it to pivot along the center axis of the trailer tongue. You cold also put another nut on the threaded rod to prevent it from being able to unscrew all the way.

My idea "right now" will have the bolt - in this pic I unscrewed it:

I will weld, u-bolt, or otherwise securely fasten this in the tongue. Originally, I was going to bend up a long piece of stainless heavy wall tubing out of the scrap we had at work (the boss was OK with it) but I didn't get that done and am now retired (all of us were - end of the space program @ KSC). So now I need to figure out a way to fasten this bolt - or another more appropriate one in the steel channel tongue. I think I may need to possibly get a grade 8 that is threaded farther back - but that can be solved and I'm getting off point.

Yes, the rod end will thread on the bolt. This particular bolt has 1"+ of threads. If you screw it all the way in to the last ~3/4 thread, it will have the strength benefit of all the threads that can go in and still be able to pivot back and forth - see what I mean? That - along with the pivot of the rod end bearing - should allow for any lean angle on the bike and as the trailer load will never be "huge" will also have straight line strength as well.

The bolt going through the rod end is shouldered and is a good fit. The threaded end I can either just put through a hole in the bike hitch (stoutly made of course), or maybe nut it on both sides of the hitch - maybe with one nut welded on the hitch. I think I'll still need to cotter pin it to make sure it doesn't back off.

What I don't like is I'll need to carry an appropriate tool(s) to secure the trailer to the hitch - but that can be dealt with by a couple of tethered tools that stash on the tongue somewhere in a little box. AND, I'm not "married" to this design; I have other trailer hitch parts around including a pivot based on a piece of teflon block with an bolt going through. Gotta dig that out - it's around here somewhere.

Now, after saying all that I admit I have a tendency to overthink things LOL! I still like this basic idea but the project has languished for some time now - maybe this is the spark to get it going again! Dang, I love to tinker............

 

[Pepperell]

How was the install on the converter?

The 12" wheels are rated at a slightly higher speed that the 8" ones and have a higher weight rating as well. Although I'll never load it to it's full capacity, I will be riding "slightly" faster than the speed rating for the wheels. It's nice to know that are built to be a bit more sturdy.

You're right on the swivel hitch, but I'd hate to hit the pivot limit on the ball coupler half way through a corner. On the other hand, maybe the standard coupler would prevent the bike from hitting the ground if I ever dropped it in a parking lot.

I've got the same jack/wheel for the tongue - just have to make sure everything is balanced to keep the tongue weight in the proper range.

Not sure if the box is made from polyproylene (PP), it doesn't feel like it. I have to drill a couple holes for new locking latches. I can bring in some of the plastic shavings and check them out in the materials lab at work.

For the light wiring on my gen 1 I removed the stock rack and tail section with the taillight assembly and I think the left side rear cowling. This exposed the wiring near where I wanted to install the Hoppy using the rubber strap that Yamaha conveniently provided for just this purpose... I used the provided quick connectors on the appropriate wires, but others cleverer than I might solder or pull pins from the connector that's in that area.

I haven't checked my hitch weight but it seemed to feel somewheres between 20-40# without paying any attention to how I loaded it. Because the container is so short it's hard to load it wrong. If I eventually move my cooler to the tongue I may have to revisit this.

The next time I have the trailer hooked up and empty I'll lift one side and see just how much angle I have. Bob Vail who still visits this forum from time to time used a ball hitch on his FJR and towed a small trailer about a billion miles. He continues to do so with a small tent trailer and (I think) a Gold Wing. He has over 100,000 miles IIRC towing experience and hosts a Delphi Forum dedicated to motorcycle trailer towing.

I speak from ignorance on the shell material. It's pretty slimy feeling, tho. Cerulean Silver would work for me!!

If you figure out a better latch and hinge arrangement I'd be interested to see it.

 

[mferriter]

It looks to me like the shell is painted, but not 100% sure. I might try to paint a small ara of the interior to see what it looks like.

I bought a variety of "draw latches" from McMaster-Carr and hopefully will have some time this weekend to get something figured out. The stock latches totally suck - I was worried the whole time I was pulling it home that they were going to come loose and the top would fly open.

I also purchased a new lock cylinder to replace the stock one with something more stout.

 

[mferriter]

I was thinking about something like this for the swivel, but I'd prefer to have bearings in between the blocks and the bolt.

 

[Powerman]

Wow we must think alike!

The swivel hitch was drawn up at the cigar store after technical analysis.

I was thinking larger wheels and lowered torsion axles, going to try the stock setup first.

Repacked the bearings, they felt bad. There was welding slag in the seal area that needed cleaning off.

I have a heim joint hitch layed out for the winter work.

The earth quake shook the trailer off the jack stand and cut the wires.

(toolbox fell inches from my FJR)

Hitch is started, may finish this weekend if we have power after Irene.

Lost power Thursday after a storm.

 

[gravity]

Well you guys are a little ahead of me but I did pick up a HF Tag-a-long trailer last night. I didn't pick up the LED's for it yet, and have not looked into hitch materials yet. Home Depot was a zoo yesterday because of the impending storm. I think I may put the trailer together first. Then I can assess the wheel size, but after looking at Carl's set up I'm inclined to leave them alone and see how it works firsthand.

Peter

 

[Pepperell]

I suppose the 12" tires would get the tongue closer to level, but I believe the fender mounts need to be raised. Looked like a PITA to me for little gain. Tire and wheel speed ratings are determined at max load, which you might exceed if you haul concrete...

 

[mferriter]

I suppose the 12" tires would get the tongue closer to level, but I believe the fender mounts need to be raised. Looked like a PITA to me for little gain. Tire and wheel speed ratings are determined at max load, which you might exceed if you haul concrete...

Your right about the fender mount getting in the way. I need to decide whether to put the 8" wheels back on or move the mount up a couple inches. The 12" wheels just look so much nicer, but if I go with the torsion axles I'm working on, I may have to mount the fenders up much higher, maybe on the side of the box. Either that or cut off the existing mounts and build some taller posts to mount them to.

back to the drawing board (the back of a napkin most of the time).

Damn work and kids keep eating into my modification time.

 

[mferriter]

Wow we must think alike!

The swivel hitch was drawn up at the cigar store after technical analysis.

I was thinking larger wheels and lowered torsion axles, going to try the stock setup first.

Repacked the bearings, they felt bad. There was welding slag in the seal area that needed cleaning off.

I have a heim joint hitch layed out for the winter work.

The earth quake shook the trailer off the jack stand and cut the wires.

(toolbox fell inches from my FJR)

Hitch is started, may finish this weekend if we have power after Irene.

Lost power Thursday after a storm.

Just barely felt the quake here. How'd you far with the hurricane? Just a few sprinkles and a gentle breeze down here.

 

[Pepperell]

My idea "right now" will have the bolt - in this pic I unscrewed it:

The bolt going through the rod end is shouldered and is a good fit. The threaded end I can either just put through a hole in the bike hitch (stoutly made of course), or maybe nut it on both sides of the hitch - maybe with one nut welded on the hitch. I think I'll still need to cotter pin it to make sure it doesn't back off.

What I don't like is I'll need to carry an appropriate tool(s) to secure the trailer to the hitch - but that can be dealt with by a couple of tethered tools that stash on the tongue somewhere in a little box. AND, I'm not "married" to this design; I have other trailer hitch parts around including a pivot based on a piece of teflon block with an bolt going through. Gotta dig that out - it's around here somewhere.

Now, after saying all that I admit I have a tendency to overthink things LOL! I still like this basic idea but the project has languished for some time now - maybe this is the spark to get it going again! Dang, I love to tinker............

Loose the shouldered bolt and use this large pin as used on 3 point hitches. Replace the small clip pin with a lock. No tool needed. (Don't loose the key!

 

[fljab]

Loose the shouldered bolt and use this large pin as used on 3 point hitches. Replace the small clip pin with a lock. No tool needed. (Don't loose the key!

Great idea, but where to find? I went on McMaster site before responding - don't see it under "pin" - I'll keep looking. Maybe someplace like Tractor Supply would have that?

EDIT - Update: I found it @ Tractor supply under "Draw Pin" - they have a few different ones, but here's an example:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/agriculture-farming-ranching/3-point-hitch-parts/hitch-pins/extra-long-forge-draw-pin-category-1-0265121

Thanks for the idea!

 

[Pepperell]

Well, I got off my *** and took a couple of pics of ball angle...

 

Bike on side stand 15 degrees to the left, jacked up trailer 15 degrees to the right.

 

 

...which was about as far as the ball and hitch flange would allow...

 

 

I measured the angles with a protractor used for mitering trim. Side of the tongue for the trailer angle...

 

 

...side of the hitch for the bike angle.

 

 

I also weighed the trailer. Left 58", right 65#, tongue 24#. That's with the sewer pipe, nose wheel, and lug wrench.

 

Total: 147#, 30 degree lean angle.

 

 

 

[twistedcricket]

Well, I got off my *** and took a couple of pics of ball angle...

 

Bike on side stand 15 degrees to the left, jacked up trailer 15 degrees to the right.

 

 

I also weighed the trailer. Left 58", right 65#, tongue 24#. That's with the sewer pipe, nose wheel, and lug wrench.

 

Total: 147#, 30 degree lean angle.

 

 

What roads do you think you'll be riding that makes this a problem?

 

[Pepperell]

Well, I got off my *** and took a couple of pics of ball angle...

 

Bike on side stand 15 degrees to the left, jacked up trailer 15 degrees to the right.

 

 

I also weighed the trailer. Left 58", right 65#, tongue 24#. That's with the sewer pipe, nose wheel, and lug wrench.

 

Total: 147#, 30 degree lean angle.

 

 

What roads do you think you'll be riding that makes this a problem?

None. Others have questioned whether a standard ball hitch has adequate clearance for aggressive riding. I didn't attempt to tilt the bike to 30 degrees, but I doubt I would get it that laid over with a passenger plus another couple hundred pounds in the trailer.